Motor mount question
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From: sterling heights mi
Motor mount question I want to order my motor mounts but am at a loss on what to order. I Am putting a 5.3 in my 71 elcamino which had a big block in it. I have a set of Dirty Dingo engine swap plates that will set the engine in 1 of 3 positions.Will the big block frame stands work or will I need small block stands. I was looking at the energy suspention urethane mounts. Thanks!
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I want to order my motor mounts but am at a loss on what to order. I Am putting a 5.3 in my 71 elcamino which had a big block in it. I have a set of Dirty Dingo engine swap plates that will set the engine in 1 of 3 positions.Will the big block frame stands work or will I need small block stands. I was looking at the energy suspention urethane mounts. Thanks!
1.) What transmission are you planning to install?
2.) What accessory drive are you using?
3.) What headers/manifolds are you planning to use?
4.) What oil pan are you using?
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In order to install a 4L60 into your car behind an LS without cutting the tunnel and while achieving the above mentioned optimized U-joint angles, you're going to have to move the engine/trans mating plane forward from the stock position by 1.25" and get the front of the engine as low as possible in the frame while still allowing the bottom of the oil to clear the inner tie rod ends.
You are ahead of the game already by choosing to use the Holley 302-2 oil pan as there is no other pan that will allow you to place the engine as low in the frame and clear the tie rod ends, or move the engine/trans mounting plane 1.25" forward from the stock position. The slider mounts you mentioned, or any swap plates that install using factory frame stands limit the minimum installed height you are able to achieve at the front of the engine. The new Hooker 701221006HKR engine brackets were specifically designed to with work with the 302-2 pan to place the engine/trans exactly as needed to achieve optimum geometry, since they are not restricted by the discrete height of the stock frame stands.
Last edited by user 4737373; Mar 8, 2016 at 08:21 PM.
I would not recommend the cts-v pan. The pan may clear the cross-member, but it does not allow the motor to sit low enough for proper drive line angles. You will have issues clearing the draglink/tierods and the sump hangs below the cross member.
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Yep, I went over this on another A-body thread yesterday; the CTSV pan is too tall/deep on both ends to be able to achieve optimized fitment in an A-body swap. Any oil pan that is taller than the F-body pan along it's front profile (1.25", which is the same as the Holley 302-2 pan)is not going to allow you to achieve optimized tie-rod clearance AND U-joint working angles.
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I want to order my motor mounts but am at a loss on what to order. I Am putting a 5.3 in my 71 elcamino which had a big block in it. I have a set of Dirty Dingo engine swap plates that will set the engine in 1 of 3 positions.Will the big block frame stands work or will I need small block stands. I was looking at the energy suspention urethane mounts. Thanks!
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Andrew
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From: sterling heights mi
Thanks for all the good info. I went and ordered the Hooker parts. I dont want
to have to re-buy any parts or re-do something. This is giong to take long enough as it is! The weather in the Detriot area is pertty darn nice this week
and I hope to get the old motor out and test fit the 5.3.
to have to re-buy any parts or re-do something. This is giong to take long enough as it is! The weather in the Detriot area is pertty darn nice this week
and I hope to get the old motor out and test fit the 5.3.