Alternator won't charge, 470ohm resistor inline
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From: MD
Alternator won't charge, 470ohm resistor inline So like the title says I can't get my alternator to charge, even with the 470 ohm resistor in line to a 12v source. I've used my ordinal alternator from a 2005 GMC Yukon and a brand new one from a 2005 express van. Neither will charge. I've checked the voltage through the wire and at the connector it has 8.7v. The alternator is attached to the water pump with a bolt and another bolt with a turn buckle, I've also held a large gauge power wire to the case and head just to rule out a ground issue.
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Make sure your static battery voltage is between 12.4 and 12.6 volts before testing your alternator to rule out the battery being at fault. Do you have the resistive exciter wire connected to the "L" terminal of the harness/plug? Do you have the remote sensing wire connected (terminal "S")?
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From: MD
The battery is also brand new and will hold a charge somewhere in the 13 range with the motor off. I have the resisted wire in the L position, but no other wires connected. I'm running a megasquirt to give more info
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The remote sensing wire/circuit is used by the voltage regulator to adjust alternator output based on load demand...I would recommend taking advantage of that function. You'll need to connect it to a remote 12V source that is within your central power distribution center (main fuse block or buss bar). Are you testing for alternator charge output at the battery, or off of the alternator output lug?
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I didn't know it did that, I'll have to hook that up. And I as testing at the lug on the alternator. Positive on the lug, negative on the block. Also checking what the megasquirt was reporting.
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I would hook up the sensing wire and retest the alternator again...if it still doesn't work, you can pull it off and have it bench tested.
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From: MD
Welp did that and still nothing haha. The alternator I've been using was new from GM and has been on a running car, so it's known good. Does it have to be above a certain rpm to excite? Anything like that?
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At least it's not wasted effort as you'll want the benefit of the remote sensing wire being hooked up once you figure out what's up. No, the only alternators that need to be accelerated slightly to get them to excite are those of the 1-wire variety. If you're certain your resistive exciter wire going to the "L" terminal is supplying a 12v signal and is not shorted to ground, then I would have the alternator bench tested to validate its operation. It's either the alternator or the wiring that's causing your issue.
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I know this is an older thread, but I’m curious about a couple of things. First, whether the problem is fixed and, if so, what was the solution?
Next, Toddoky says that the sense line is necessary. I thought that the PCM samples battery/voltage state and sends exciter signals to the alternator when needed. I’m always seeking to learn.
Next, Toddoky says that the sense line is necessary. I thought that the PCM samples battery/voltage state and sends exciter signals to the alternator when needed. I’m always seeking to learn.
I know this is an older thread, but I’m curious about a couple of things. First, whether the problem is fixed and, if so, what was the solution?
Next, Toddoky says that the sense line is necessary. I thought that the PCM samples battery/voltage state and sends exciter signals to the alternator when needed. I’m always seeking to learn.
Next, Toddoky says that the sense line is necessary. I thought that the PCM samples battery/voltage state and sends exciter signals to the alternator when needed. I’m always seeking to learn.
I know this is an older thread, but I’m curious about a couple of things. First, whether the problem is fixed and, if so, what was the solution?
Next, Toddoky says that the sense line is necessary. I thought that the PCM samples battery/voltage state and sends exciter signals to the alternator when needed. I’m always seeking to learn.
Next, Toddoky says that the sense line is necessary. I thought that the PCM samples battery/voltage state and sends exciter signals to the alternator when needed. I’m always seeking to learn.
Nearly all of them only need the exciter wire (B terminal). This is the resistor wire and should be 8-9v with the IGN on
A rare few alts like the C5 4 pin also require a battery 12v on the D terminal
If you have the exciter wire correct then the alt will function
Beware, cheaper alts have low quality regulators. I've seen quite a few stop charging when a little heat gets into the system
2 pin alts are different and well covered in the sticky at the top of this forum
I fail to see why people use a resistor that is never designed to absorb the voltage and current surges in a vehicle environment. A simple 12 volt idiot or side marker light can absorb these surges and survive. They Have been used in most vehicles since the mid-1960's. I guess it's just the engineer stink on me and 50 yrs experience with electrical and car experience.
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The reason I’m asking about this is because I’ve been distracted in my reading and now I’m seeing this discussion about the need for a high wattage resistor to be placed in series with the exciter wire. I’ve just completed a 5.3 (Vortec) swap into my 90 Isuzu pickup and so far I’ve had no particular problems with the alternator charging. I have nothing hooked up to the alternator except the exciter wire (one of four places in the plug assembly) and the charge wires to the main circuit breaker.
The only thing that’s kind of messing with me is the Isuzu charge relay stays energized when the key is out. I think I can work that out through another relay setup, but I’m having a little bit of trouble convincing myself that I’ve not done something else to cause this. The reason I picked up on the relay was that my battery drained over about two days of non-use. I did a quick amperage check from the battery and noticed current flow. I had needed to connect a wire from the charge side of the alternator to the charge relay in order to correct for a check alternator/battery light.
I’m a little turned around on this.
The only thing that’s kind of messing with me is the Isuzu charge relay stays energized when the key is out. I think I can work that out through another relay setup, but I’m having a little bit of trouble convincing myself that I’ve not done something else to cause this. The reason I picked up on the relay was that my battery drained over about two days of non-use. I did a quick amperage check from the battery and noticed current flow. I had needed to connect a wire from the charge side of the alternator to the charge relay in order to correct for a check alternator/battery light.
I’m a little turned around on this.