kirk69gto

Here i go. i am swapping out the 400/400 combo ( not the original combo ) from my 69 to swap in the LQ9/t-56 combo. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated as this is my first attempt at anything this large. This is my second 69 GTO and i want to drive it more than i can now. Low MPG. im going to modernize more than just the drive train but keep things original as possible. Like the 8-track player. I will be adding a turbo later after the car is driveable. First step: removed all front sheet medal, removed motor/trans.

RicOtt

You will love it when it is finished and the bugs are worked out. My daily driver is a 1966 GTO with a LQ9 (2006 Escalade) and a T56.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

My advice is to use the Holley swap components.

Andrew

kirk69gto

Products used:

BRPHOTRODS engine and trans mounts
Powerstop Brake Kit
ABCPerformance Smooth Firewall Panels

kirk69gto

Decided to clean and paint the brake calipers ( took a couple hours each ), but looks great. Plus I'm smoothing out the firewall.

kirk69gto

Thanks for the advice. Ran across the BRP first.

kirk69gto

Next up: the transmission hump. Since my son has the motor and trans over 200 miles away from the car and not likely to meet up anytime soon. I and trans to get a look at the fit and determine the amount of the hump to cut.

move the piece i cut out back 12 inches. ready for welding.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

That's unfortunate. The BRP mounts put the engine up too high and exacerbate the already problematic driveline angles...

Andrew

kirk69gto

Mclead 1963-72 Chevelle Hydraulic Clutch Linkage Conversion Kit

Removed the old brake pedal. had to drill the hole lager to accommodate the clutch pedal shaft.

With the clutch pedal in place it was obvious the that pedal would not work until i trimmed the cradle. Plus I am using a piece of pipe to accommodate the length of the shaft. The brake pedal is now in place. This cradle is from a automatic car. Ordered the pedal pads, shaft grommets, and shaft retaining pin from OPGI.

Had to cut a new hole for the hyd clutch. made a template from the mounting bracket from the kit, cut the hole, mounted the hyd clutch. still need to fix the cover plate to allow for the clutch.

kirk69gto

Its been awhile but i have been busy. upgraded the rear end with a ford 9 inch, 3.70 gears, QA1 coli over and MSS control Arms.

G Atsma

Another Lazarus thread, and BACK!
Looks like a nice job done!

kirk69gto

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Wow, that firewall looks great!!

kirk69gto

Went with Tube control arms and the QA1 coilovers
Speedway 1964-72 GM A-Body Chevelle Tubular Control Arms Part # 91036472
QA1 1968-72 Chevelle A-Body Front Coilover Kit Part # 72146712
Tubular Lower Control Arm Coilover Reinforcement Plate Part # 9103610

kirk69gto

Was going turbo but got a free LSA

CattleAc

iTrader: (7)

Did yo ever get the T-56 mocked up and installed??

kirk69gto

i did have them in together. only took one picture. you can see the stock oil pan will not work. i got an after market pan. im no longer using the t-56. im dropping in a TR6060. Better HP load. i should have my car back form the body shop in January. will post more pictures of the installation.

CattleAc

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, I tried to make the truck pan work too. Finally went with an F-body pan. I really like my t-56, but I agree, Tr6060 will be better with the big power. Great to see your progress.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Where do you get a Free LSA from?? I'll take another one, haha

EddieK

Speedway/Ebay control arms are good, but hardware is junk. Replace the ball joints cause the ones that are on them are known to break. Google it, it's a known issue.