slocaddy

Very cool swap, kind a like an older hennesy venom, the purists will be even more butt hurt when your car outperforms theirs! Lol, can't wait!
Gets my unwavering approval

9mil

Been a while- have been waiting on parts but i finally got my adapter plate and flywheel. I so now that i have the motor and transaxle in their exact location, i can start with some other systems... Coooling, Fueling and Electrical.
Electrical - the harness is built- just need to go get it
Fueling- got a set of replacement tanks and they are being dipped and shined.
that leaves cooling- here is what i am thinking on my flow and routing. I've done some research on the LS system but with the distance to the front- i have to figure out a slightly different way. I will be using all -20AN line and fittings and an upgraded radiator. I know some of you wont know where the tanks would mount but ill try and find some pics for reference.. but the pressure tank lives just next to the engine in the rear/middle of the car and the overflow in the farthest back bumper..
The steam tube i am told- can be routed back into the system and i am still unclear if my pressure tank scenario will work without going to the radiator? it sits at an angle in the front- so not sure it will have the high point.



Please critic - i'm not terribly familiar with the LS's so i can guessing but i like to have a plan before buying parts!

More pics!

BLKMGK

Sounds a good bit like how the Porsche swap guys are doing their cooling systems, check out their builds as there are a few here.

Red89GTA

I'm in no way an expert on how to set up the various tanks and routing. I do know that the heater core outlet/inlet need to have flow through them, i.e. loop it, don't cap it.

Other than that, looks great, love those Esprits.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

No, you can cap the heater outlet and inlet without any harm. Pull the tunes, tap the ports and install pipe plugs.

9mil

i did see that- I will loop them- especially if I tap the steam pipe off of one.

Thanks! And I will check the 911 guys posts on this too.

Krom

why not use the at least a majority of the stock hard lines to run front to rear?

9mil

i thought about that but I will be upgrading the radiator and it will have AN fittings and I have to come off the waterpump outlet at damn near 90deg - like an SLC - so AN fitting there too... just makes sense to just do it all in nice new stuff. I tend to half *** things when it's a puzzle and not all the pieces are there!

Krom

With my limited experience working with an stuff, I'd have regular hose barbs put on the rad, and use the stock lines as much as possible is all.

Would hate to try and route such a large hunk of that stuff, and then secure it so it doesn't cause problems.

The rad have to be custom, or is there an off the shelf upgrade that works?

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

That's "sorta" true. If you live in the mountains where the engine is loaded (uphill) you should do this. I'm in the "flatlands" and have run with the heater inlet/outlets plugged (well, valved off) and have had no problems, even though I'm located on coastal TX with upper 90° temps and 80% humidity...

White Out

iTrader: (2)

This build is awesome

9mil

Currently Trying to figure out what axles i can use... I think I have found a few that can use an adapter or extension piece to make work - but still need to do some measuring. Oh, the rear brakes are a PIA as well -they were inboard and i am trying to make them outboard- new carriers or a custom adapter plate!

aroberson77

On racecars I have seen the steam vents routed to the surge tank directly separate from the outlet of the water pump and I think it was routed to a small -4 fitting on the rad. You would fill the system with pressurized water and run the motor to get the air out. May be too complex though and what you have pictured should work as well.

gsjimmy

This is what I used for the steam port.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/232126629742...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Plumbs into the upper rad hose, then add in a 90* fitting and route the hose. Works great

9mil

Been a while but still working on it! I currently have the motor and transaxle out to do final fitment of clutch, belts, WP, intake, coil packs and wires (that have to be moved because of turned up headers) and put it back in for the start and wiring.
I have to get some firewall wood (yes, wood) replaced prior to putting in the tanks, which has to be done prior to putting the motor back in... so stalled a little on that.

I need an LS1 or LS6 intake if anyone has one on the cheap!

I am going to be documenting the purchase and build via video in the coming weeks as it goes back together so ill post that link when its up too.. .learned A LOT and have A LOT of extra parts that didnt work- its an impressive pile so far!

thanks for looking!

G Atsma

If you can't find an LS6 intake get the Dorman repro version. The LS1 will choke the engine compared to the LS6.

9mil

will do...thanks!

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Pic below - routed my steam line into a "T" fitting for the reservoir line. Works like a champ.

88stanger

this is really interesting

9mil

Im hoping it's about to get more interesting... I have been amassing parts and am waiting on a couple more to really hit it hard. I have to fix that stupid firewall this week and have been sick... then it is full speed ahead.

Also- I have decided to use a corvette overflow/ expansion tank to try and keep things simple. A buddy doing the same swap did it and it appears to have worked.

Ill try to keep this somewhat up to date with progress!