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Chuckle - you're complaining about audio quality. Here's my level of tech on audio/video issues - the only way anyone can watch any of my videos is to stand beside me while I play it on the phone.
Got a brake question for you. I have upgraded to the same fronts that you have. I have heard of people swapping the stock fronts to the rear when they do this.
Just curious what route you went. Since the 996tt brakes and the stock 87+ turbo fronts both have the same piston sizes (40mm and 36mm), the braking (clamping) force is the same. Seems you would want to keep the stock rears and maintain the 1.72 front to rear braking force ratio, or am I missing something?
Took some fiddling. To get the torque tube lined up straight down the tunnel when connected to the engine, the back of engine needed to shifted slightly to the passenger side from where I originally bolted it in place. I loosened the crossmember to body bolts, and the engine mount to cross member bolts, while the engine was hanging off the engine brace. That gave me the wiggle room to get the torque tube line up so it runs straight down the tunnel underneath the car. Once in a good position I torqued everything back down to mount the engine.
what clutch and bell housing adapter are you using? I’m just starting mine and I’m just looking for parts
Still out there doing it at the track. 3 events done this season so far. The last one was the hottest I've ever done in the middle of the heat wave we've been stuck in, car held up great to the temps.
Got a brake question for you. I have upgraded to the same fronts that you have. I have heard of people swapping the stock fronts to the rear when they do this.
Just curious what route you went. Since the 996tt brakes and the stock 87+ turbo fronts both have the same piston sizes (40mm and 36mm), the braking (clamping) force is the same. Seems you would want to keep the stock rears and maintain the 1.72 front to rear braking force ratio, or am I missing something?
I kept the stock 944 Turbo rears, no need to up the rear size for the exact reasons you stated. The advantage to bigger front pads and rotors from the 996tt/GT3 setup when tracking is much better wear rates and a bigger heat sink for brake cooling.
what clutch and bell housing adapter are you using? I’m just starting mine and I’m just looking for parts
I'm using a 2 piece C5 bellhousing and adapter from Texas Performance Concepts. They now provide an adapter for the 1 piece C5 bellhousing as the 2 piece is so hard to find now. My clutch and pressure plate is SPEC stage 1, flywheel is the SPEC steel version.
Did not read entire thread— but how is your oil pressure on track w I assume only the baffle oil pan?
have you found the need for accusump or a dry sump?
Nice work!
Good question!
One qualifier before I get into details, I'm never on full slicks, always a "street" track tire between 140 and 200 treadware depending on what I bought for the season.
Some details on the oiling system. 10w30 synthetic, 4 traps doors in the pan around the pickup in a diamond layout, baffle on top of the trap doors, and a stock F-Body windage tray. 6 litres in the pan, plus a remote filter running a big 51069 filter and a big oil cooler from an FC RX7 that runs from the remote filter back to the block. The oil stays very cool, I've never seen more than 180F coming out of the cooler. The oil gets changed every 2 or 3 track days (depending on session run time). The oil pump is a Melling high volume, the engine was supplied by Turn Key Engine Supply and when I described my usage they built it accordingly. I took their advice, I can and have built engines myself (not LS) but I am not an engine builder by any measure.
Now on to oil pressure. Cold startup is 3.5 bar (51 psi), after a really hard run on track it comes into the pits idling at 2.5 bar (36 psi). On track the pressure varies between 2.75 (40 psi) and 3.75 (55 psi) bar, so a very narrow band, I upshift between 5500 and 6000 rpm. This pressure behavior has been consistent since new. There are 5 track seasons on the engine now, I run three different tracks regularly, two clockwise configuration and one counterclockwise. I do up to 20 events a season, sometimes more, so well over 100 track days on the engine now, session times run 20 to 30 minutes depending on which group I'm with. I have back-to-backed this car for four 30 minute sessions a few times before when training for a team enduro race I run in a different car (full race car). So that's a 2 hour straight session on track. I get tired, the car does not. LOL. When I drop the oil and filter there are no signs of anything troubling (yet) so this pressure behavior must be somewhat acceptable. At this point it's been five track seasons, the engine doesn't owe me much more.
Made some changes over winter and spring that have been great.
Over the winter I swapped from the old MEFI ECU to a GM 0411 ECU and harness from PSI conversions. Started right up on the base tune, had a local tuner adjust the tune for my car, it's been great, so much more responsive, drivability much improved.
I also upgraded my oil cooler and adjusted location. I was running an old Mazda FC RX7 oil cooler in front of the radiator. I'm now running a CSF 8066 oil cooler in the location where the stock intercooler used to live - airflow is completely separated from the radiator using the factory intercooler ducting and shrouding to direct air (it's behind the upper centre slot in the bumper, all other stock bumper openings send air to the radiator and brake ducts). Coolant temps are now much more stable, peak is 198F when pushing on track (HP Tuners log). Oil temps never exceed 220F coming out of the engine (standalone VDO guage). As a further bonus I picked up a few noticeable psi of oil pressure throughout the operating range (standalone VDO guage).
I have a C5 bell housing if you dont have one yet-$100 plus the freight. I have done about 10 of these swaps on 944 and 968 makes for a great combination.