Hello what I have is a 4l60e with up grades making it a 4l65e 2x4

I have a 06 6.0 l long block and the dbw tb and flexfuel injectors off of a 04 Tahoe l59 and wire harness also I also got the flex fuel sencer off the fuel line and I still have to get the computer some one got it before I did I found a computer and the guy says he can give it a stock tune by the vin number .

So is a 4l60e tune for a 2x4 the same as a 6l60e 4x4 tune ?

And will the 6.0 run fine off the 5.3 flex fuel tune ?


I'm going to buy a hp tuner pro to delete vats and possibly emissions things this is going into my 1938 Oldsmobile business coupe

thank you

Kelly

 

I'm running a L59 harness on a LM7. Don't forget you'll also need the TAC box (it's near the brake booster on the truck) and a DBW accelerator pedal.

Just disable the Flex Fuel capability, it's a button in HPTuners. You can plumb the fuel sensor in later for the ability to run E85 if you like, but it'll be easier to focus on just getting it running on regular gas.

I'd imagine it will run just fine on the 5.3 tune, but I'd recommend getting a wideband sensor to tune up the fuel tables. I just bought an Innovate LC-2 wideband with a gauge on Amazon, it's $165 shipped and works great.

Another thing - you'll get more responses if you title your thread with a short description of the issue you're having.

 

Thank you..
my harness I picked up was off of a 4x4 so it has extra wire connected to the transfer case since my hotrod wont be a 4x4 I just wanted to know if I had to modify it or if it would work with the extra plugs ?
. I'm thanking of installing all the flex fuel pieces so if I did want to run flex fuel I can here is Washington state I don't ever see flex fuel .

Yes I was going to buy one and install it permanently .

Thank you again

Prob going to get a computer from psi so they can set it up for what I have to get it running then buy a hp programmer pro ..

Also I want to add onto the wire harness so I can get the computer in side the car and add length to the wires over the intake so I can get them off their too .

 

I'm thinking the ECU doesn't really care, I'm running a 4L60E harness on a manual trans car and it doesn't really affect the driving. There is also a transmission tab in HPT where you could set it to 4x2 if it's acting weird.

Couple tips since this is fresh on the brain:

Wire in the wideband signal into the red/black A/C pressure wire and you'll be able to log your AFR volts in VCM Scanner.

I've extended two harnesses. The first one I extended all the wires. It was overkill and unnecessary. The second one, I just extended the driver's side harness (coil harness, injectors, alternator, Head temp) and it was enough to get the ECU and fuse block into my cabin.

This picture is crap but you can see where I routed the driver's side harness around the back of the manifold

 

Thanks flatblack
I'm going to bring the harness in on the drivers side I don't have room under the dash on the pass side the vintage air heater box /ac and the wiper motor took up all that space

im thanksgiving my I can use the extra wires that I pull out of the harness to extend the harness but I'm not sure on the gauge of wire used

Also I have the fuel sencer that came out of the Tahoe for the flex fuel but I'm not sure I want to run flex fuel .
i also read I need to change the fuel pump to run flex fuel
kelly

 

Yep, E85 needs about 30% more fuel compared to gas so it needs to move alot of fuel. The L59 injectors are 33# where the non-flex fuel injectors were only 25#

If you have access to a junkyard, I would recommend getting another harness that you can pick wires from. I got a complete uncut harness for $18 at my local junkyard. The nice thing about doing that is that you can match the color wires that you are extending. Makes it much less confusing if you have to go back in.

 

I won't have to extend the wire harness I will have to shorten it close to the computer connections my plugs are different on the lt1 swap he sayes a blue connector but mine is white

You said to use the red /blk wire to wire in my wide band does that wire stay connected to the pcm on the other end?

And here is a few pics

 

The connectors he's talking about (Red/Blue or Red/Green) are the two long connectors that plug into the PCM. It they are factory, they should have colored pin covers on the ECU side

They are in the top right of this picture

http://www.lt1swap.com/pictures/step1%20(Large).jpg

This is where the A/C pressure connector is (labeled "A/C???" in the picture). Just find the red/black wire and wire the output of your wideband signal to that and it'll go back to the ECU and you can read it in HPT

http://www.lt1swap.com/HARNES_LABELS_03.jpg

 

He was talking about the c152 connector is blue but the one I have is white I checked all the wires and it is the right c152 connector just white.

Also I just want to make sure that any of the wires he has marked to remove doesn't mess up the dbw tb .

I've chased down all the pink wires except 3 that goes down the transmission plug loom I've done the o2 ft and rear and also the wire that goes to the flex fuel sender on the fuel line I hope to locate them tomorrow since I'm unemployed at the moment I have lots of time

 

My 2006 harness has a white connector on the C152 plug also, must be a year thing, I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you don't take out any wires going from the PCM to the TAC module, your DBW will work fine. There are 3 wires coming from the TAC that are on the c100 plug that go to the cruise control, so removing them is optional, but personally, I like cruise.

 

Thank you lsnova71 yes I'm going to install cruise also today I figured out all the wires lt1swap sayes to delete all but two I've found out is ok to take out .

The only ones I can't find info on is on
C1. Blue connector
Pin 39 starter enable relay control

And c2 green connector
Is pin 59. Crank voltage
Any info on these two wires ?

Thank you kelly

 

Ou dont need either one of those wires.

 

Ok thank you I will pull them also