First LS Swap in a Jeep - Won't Stay Running
10-18-2017, 10:16 PM
#21
the engine stays on if you continuously spray starter fluid?
anyways, i posted on your other thread @ pcm diagnostics with a better base file. Your current file has the maf disabled, and the speed density filtering disabled.
anyways, i posted on your other thread @ pcm diagnostics with a better base file. Your current file has the maf disabled, and the speed density filtering disabled.
10-19-2017, 08:38 AM
#22
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There is definitely no issue with the crank position sensor if the pump comes on while cranking. You can also verify by checking to see if tach is registering any signal, as when my CKS went bad, I had no signal.
as far as cam position sensor, I believe that the computer uses it only on crank up, and then swaps over to the crank sensor. Correct me if I'm wrong
as far as cam position sensor, I believe that the computer uses it only on crank up, and then swaps over to the crank sensor. Correct me if I'm wrong
At this point, I've tried everything that i know how to do. I don't have a copy of HP Tuners or the connectors to plug into my OBDII port so I've exhausted all of my knowledge and resources on this damn Jeep/motor. So much for the swap being fairly easy, plug and play. All the fab work was easy but this **** at the very end has me steaming mad and beyond frustrated at this point.
I'm loading the Jeep up a buddy's deck-over trailer tomorrow and dropping it off at the LS speed shop about 2 hours away and letting them figure it out. I've been defeated and this feeling sucks.
10-19-2017, 08:39 AM
#23
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Just getting the Jeep on 42's onto a trailer is going to be a challenge this weekend.... Oh What fun.
And yep, the engine stays running if you spray starting fluid into the intake after cranking it... I had it running for about 2 minutes this way last weekend.
10-19-2017, 09:35 AM
#25
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10-19-2017, 11:49 AM
#27
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What's the purpose of the ECU/PCM controlling the fuel pump relay. I wanted to try to just wire up a relay to the ignition so that it comes on with the key and stays on constantly through the ON/CRANKING cycle and stays on afterwards to rule out something the PCM...
Any adverse effects by doing this or is it not recommended?
Any adverse effects by doing this or is it not recommended?
10-19-2017, 12:25 PM
#28
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What's the purpose of the ECU/PCM controlling the fuel pump relay. I wanted to try to just wire up a relay to the ignition so that it comes on with the key and stays on constantly through the ON/CRANKING cycle and stays on afterwards to rule out something the PCM...
Any adverse effects by doing this or is it not recommended?
Any adverse effects by doing this or is it not recommended?
I always figured its a safety thing as well saving the pump from running without the motor running
10-19-2017, 03:48 PM
#29
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I just bit the bullet and just bought HP Tuners Standard pack with 8 credits. I can't be driving my PCM 2 hours away every time I need something checked. Hopefully I can plug it in and see what's going on.
10-19-2017, 05:47 PM
#30
This may be a bit out there but have you double checked all sensor connectors that they are plugged in all the way and making good connections. On my LS3 swap into a 73 Z28 I had a bad crank sensor connector. Wouldn't start. Not the same as your problem just throwing it out there.
I've had a 98 Wrangler LS6 swap for almost 10 years and it's been great. Hope you get yours squared away.
I've had a 98 Wrangler LS6 swap for almost 10 years and it's been great. Hope you get yours squared away.
10-19-2017, 05:52 PM
#31
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**** UPDATE****
SHE RUNS!!! Got it to run this evening after work! I re-grounded the PCM and took off an inline JEGS 60 PSI max fuel gauge that I had on the rail. Not sure which one was causing the issues but the fawker runs like a scolded dog now! Praise Jesus!!! Thanks for everyone's help. This was my first time at this kind of rodeo. 2 months of nights and weekends and all that work finally feels like it paid off.
SHE RUNS!!! Got it to run this evening after work! I re-grounded the PCM and took off an inline JEGS 60 PSI max fuel gauge that I had on the rail. Not sure which one was causing the issues but the fawker runs like a scolded dog now! Praise Jesus!!! Thanks for everyone's help. This was my first time at this kind of rodeo. 2 months of nights and weekends and all that work finally feels like it paid off.
10-19-2017, 05:58 PM
#32
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So how long did it take once you had all the parts to do the install? Just curious,, I'm starting down the path to the dark side with my YJ,, they have cookies..
10-19-2017, 06:07 PM
#33
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I started this swap on August 6th and it's actually running today finally. So just over 2 months to completion and that consisted of of 2-3 weeknights after work and nearly every Saturday (12-14 hours per Sat) since. Occasionally a Sunday here and there when I had the free time.
10-21-2017, 09:21 AM
#34
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So I can get the motor to run but it's not even 300-400 RPM on the tach.
It's now throwing these codes...
P2761 Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Open
P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow
A Circuit High
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
It's now throwing these codes...
P2761 Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Open
P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow
A Circuit High
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical