1986 Olds Cutlass Salon LS1/T56 build
12-12-2017, 09:10 PM
#21
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Removed all known unnecessary wires from the harness. The LT1swap printout shown the picture was a huge help. I kept all AC and Cruise wiring as I plan on keeping both. Since the LS1 Fbody cars don't use a BCM to control the AC it should be straight forward hooking up the signal to the factory Olds harness. Cruise looks a bit more complex due to the throttle by cable. I'll have to source a Cruise Control module, cable and wire harness out of a S10 or Astro van. Haven't been to a junk yard in years.
I've decided to run an OEM style Nylon fuel line from the tank to the stock fuel rails. I'll start with 25 feet of 3/8" Nylon and this kit
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-27520-800-300.aspx
I also figured out I can use a C5 fuel filter to regulator pressure and run a short return back to tank.
http://www.fullthrottlecorvette.com/...lco_p_374.html
This saves me from having to change fuel rails to include a return.
Since Holley was running a Holiday Sale I ordered a bunch of parts this week.
Engine mounts - HOK-12643HKR $122
Clam shells - 2292 - $10
Motor mount inserts 3.1116G- $56
Cross member - 12644HKR - $237
Trans mount - Prothane 7-1604BL - $32
Oil pan - 302-2 - $312
Oil pan gasket 2612350, - $32
LS3 dip stick tube 12625031 - $17
LS3 dip stick 12634547 - $20 ebay
Fuel tank - 19-146 $521 had to buy direct from Holley
AC bracket, pulleys, tensioner 20-140 $500
Adaptor for Fbody accessories 21-2 $68
I've decided to run an OEM style Nylon fuel line from the tank to the stock fuel rails. I'll start with 25 feet of 3/8" Nylon and this kit
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-27520-800-300.aspx
I also figured out I can use a C5 fuel filter to regulator pressure and run a short return back to tank.
http://www.fullthrottlecorvette.com/...lco_p_374.html
This saves me from having to change fuel rails to include a return.
Since Holley was running a Holiday Sale I ordered a bunch of parts this week.
Engine mounts - HOK-12643HKR $122
Clam shells - 2292 - $10
Motor mount inserts 3.1116G- $56
Cross member - 12644HKR - $237
Trans mount - Prothane 7-1604BL - $32
Oil pan - 302-2 - $312
Oil pan gasket 2612350, - $32
LS3 dip stick tube 12625031 - $17
LS3 dip stick 12634547 - $20 ebay
Fuel tank - 19-146 $521 had to buy direct from Holley
AC bracket, pulleys, tensioner 20-140 $500
Adaptor for Fbody accessories 21-2 $68
12-13-2017, 07:51 PM
#22
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Received the cross-member and fuel tank this evening. Unpacked everything and found no damage or missing parts. Would of been nice if the openings in the tank were covered to ensure no debris got inside during shipping but I'll blow it all out with shop air before installing the fuel pump and sender. Cross-member is a nice heavy piece that looks well built.
12-14-2017, 05:44 PM
#24
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Clean ride!
12-14-2017, 05:50 PM
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Got the fuel pump and sender installed in the tank. Instructions were good and the install went smooth. A bunch of parts came in. The only anomaly I found was the AC drive kit came with an extra pulley.
Today I ordered a Luk 04-905 (LS7) clutch kit and a universal master SSM clutch pedal.
Today I ordered a Luk 04-905 (LS7) clutch kit and a universal master SSM clutch pedal.
12-14-2017, 06:04 PM
#26
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Is this AC pump the same type as on the 307 right now?
Last edited by G Atsma; 12-14-2017 at 06:31 PM.
12-14-2017, 07:18 PM
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They are both R4 compressors. The one I'll be using on the LS1 has a 5" 6 rib pulley. The one currently on the Olds has a v belt pulley. This is the kit I used.
https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...s/parts/20-140
https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...s/parts/20-140
12-14-2017, 08:00 PM
#28
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Nice! That will make things WAY easier when hooking up the AC. The lines should hook right up. Plus now you have a new pump so things will be nice and cool when cruisin'!
12-14-2017, 08:30 PM
#29
Looks like a nice Christmas present to yourself there. Something on the table caught my eye that will need to be addressed...it appears from a distance that the bolts that were packaged with your engine brackets are for the revised version of the brackets that do not have countersunk mounting holes in them any longer. If the bolts do not feature countersunk heads they will need to be exchanged for ones that do. That car is going to be sweet.
12-15-2017, 07:14 AM
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Thanks Toddoky. I noticed the same. What are the differences between the revised engine mounts and the ones I have? Should I call Holley and have them swap out the mounts or the bolts?
12-15-2017, 08:47 AM
#31
The only difference between the original version of the engine brackets and the revised version is the use of the countersunk holes in the original parts, and cap screws in the revised design. Although the countersunk bolts have a nice clean appearance, we have moved away from the use of them in most cases due to the tendency of the bolts to sometimes seize in the holes and become difficult to remove following installation. Some guys really like the appearance of the countersunk heads, so the choice is yours to make.
12-16-2017, 09:00 AM
#34
I really like the gas tank. When I did mine, I went with a spectra tank for a Turbo buick and a racetronix pump/hanger. It works, but is hard to fill. The Holley stuff works great. Install will be a breeze.
12-16-2017, 11:04 AM
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12-16-2017, 02:38 PM
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Was able to get the oil pan and compressor installed. I have pictures below of the Holley 302-2 pan vs the F-body pan. The main difference is the sump is moved rearward on the Holley pan. You will also see the modification needed to the F-body windage tray to clear the new pick up tube. I'm now running an LS3 dipstick and tube per the oil pan recommendations. The compressor and bracket were installed for mock up. Everything went smoothly and the instructions were clear.
12-16-2017, 02:54 PM
#37
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It looks like you are enjoying the advantages of a nicely coordinated system! Keep rockin'!
12-16-2017, 03:39 PM
#38
Just a note on oil pan installation. Use a strait edge to line up the back of the pan with the block. Otherwise the trans can be misaligned. There was even a guy on another forum the cracked an aluminum block bolting up the trans because the pan stuck out.
You're also supposed to use a little rtv at the 4 corners on the block.
Nice job on the build. Looking great.
You're also supposed to use a little rtv at the 4 corners on the block.
Nice job on the build. Looking great.
12-24-2017, 09:23 AM
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Got a lot accomplished yesterday. Was able to remove the Olds motor, trans, exhaust, fuel tank, radiator and most under hood items and installed the LS1 and T56 in 8 hours. I'm very pleased with how well the Holley swap products have made this conversion run smooth. I have ~40 pictures of how the day went.
These pictures show under the Cutlass before removing parts.
We had the 307 and TH200-4R out in ~3 hours.
The cradle wasn't as dirty as I expected. I ended up removing all steering components as they were wore out and needed replacing anyways. Here are some shots starting the cleaning process.
Here are a few shots of the Holley engine mounts installed. After learning on here that the bolts they sent were incorrect, they quickly sent out the correct ones after a quick phone call to Holley tech support. Also shows is the Holley 302-2 oil pan. To note, these are 2002 F-body exhaust manifolds.
Here are the 2292 clam shell mounts with the poly engine mounts 3.1116G. I already split the stock clam shell mounts and installed the polys as you can see by the zip ties. Both the mounts and the brackets fit nicely.
Here are the clam shell mounts on the relatively clean cradle. This is a two person job for sure. I set the lift about 1/2 up so we can stand in front and rear of the cradle at chest level. You will need several small magnets to snake the bolts up through the cradle and into the mounts. I reused four of the nuts and bolts from the Oldsmobile brackets and found two more in my hardware collection. At this point you must keep the nuts and bolts loose in order to install the LS1.
I took a small hammer and rolled the firewall/floor seam up some. This was not needed as there ended up being plenty of clearance with the T56.
The LS1 fit without a hitch. With the mounts tightened down we needed to use a strap to keep the passenger valve cover from resting on the AC box
Next we installed the LS7 Clutch - LUK 04-905. The T56 matted up to the LS1 with no initial floor pan clearance issues. The instructions for the Holley cross member were a bit hard to follow mainly do to the pictures being hard to see. We ended up figuring it out and the cross member fit nicely into the factory frame holes. I only had to use one shim washer on the driver side to keep the cross member parallel with the floor. I think this was due to the original frame to body mounts are in good shape. The transmission mount did not fit, Prothane 7-1604BL. This was due to the shifter mount and reverse lockout solenoid touching the floor and not allowing the mount to fit between the cross member and the bottom of the transmission. The transmission only has to go up about 1/4" for the mount to clear which should be no issue once I have the shifter hole cut out in the floor.
When were were trying to get the transmission aligned we accidentally punctured a hole in AC box. This was due to the raised coil pack mounting boss on the rear of the passenger side valve cover. I fixed the hole and ground down the boss. It looks like I will have to relocate coil number 7 to clear the plug wire. Once the transmission is 100% in place there should be ample room for the valve cover to clear the AC box.
It looks like the 2002 F-body exhaust manifolds will work for the swap. Here are two shots showing clearance on the driver side. Note the ample room between the firewall and tunnel compared to the LS1 and T56.
This is the passenger side manifold. The stud at the 5 o'clock position in the picture will need to be removed and a bolt used instead. This is due to the tight clearance between the stud and the frame rail.
And this is how the car sits currently. Next on the list is to get the shifter hole cut, work on the third brake pedal and get a the driveshaft either shortened or replaced.
These pictures show under the Cutlass before removing parts.
We had the 307 and TH200-4R out in ~3 hours.
The cradle wasn't as dirty as I expected. I ended up removing all steering components as they were wore out and needed replacing anyways. Here are some shots starting the cleaning process.
Here are a few shots of the Holley engine mounts installed. After learning on here that the bolts they sent were incorrect, they quickly sent out the correct ones after a quick phone call to Holley tech support. Also shows is the Holley 302-2 oil pan. To note, these are 2002 F-body exhaust manifolds.
Here are the 2292 clam shell mounts with the poly engine mounts 3.1116G. I already split the stock clam shell mounts and installed the polys as you can see by the zip ties. Both the mounts and the brackets fit nicely.
Here are the clam shell mounts on the relatively clean cradle. This is a two person job for sure. I set the lift about 1/2 up so we can stand in front and rear of the cradle at chest level. You will need several small magnets to snake the bolts up through the cradle and into the mounts. I reused four of the nuts and bolts from the Oldsmobile brackets and found two more in my hardware collection. At this point you must keep the nuts and bolts loose in order to install the LS1.
I took a small hammer and rolled the firewall/floor seam up some. This was not needed as there ended up being plenty of clearance with the T56.
The LS1 fit without a hitch. With the mounts tightened down we needed to use a strap to keep the passenger valve cover from resting on the AC box
Next we installed the LS7 Clutch - LUK 04-905. The T56 matted up to the LS1 with no initial floor pan clearance issues. The instructions for the Holley cross member were a bit hard to follow mainly do to the pictures being hard to see. We ended up figuring it out and the cross member fit nicely into the factory frame holes. I only had to use one shim washer on the driver side to keep the cross member parallel with the floor. I think this was due to the original frame to body mounts are in good shape. The transmission mount did not fit, Prothane 7-1604BL. This was due to the shifter mount and reverse lockout solenoid touching the floor and not allowing the mount to fit between the cross member and the bottom of the transmission. The transmission only has to go up about 1/4" for the mount to clear which should be no issue once I have the shifter hole cut out in the floor.
When were were trying to get the transmission aligned we accidentally punctured a hole in AC box. This was due to the raised coil pack mounting boss on the rear of the passenger side valve cover. I fixed the hole and ground down the boss. It looks like I will have to relocate coil number 7 to clear the plug wire. Once the transmission is 100% in place there should be ample room for the valve cover to clear the AC box.
It looks like the 2002 F-body exhaust manifolds will work for the swap. Here are two shots showing clearance on the driver side. Note the ample room between the firewall and tunnel compared to the LS1 and T56.
This is the passenger side manifold. The stud at the 5 o'clock position in the picture will need to be removed and a bolt used instead. This is due to the tight clearance between the stud and the frame rail.
And this is how the car sits currently. Next on the list is to get the shifter hole cut, work on the third brake pedal and get a the driveshaft either shortened or replaced.
12-24-2017, 09:45 AM
#40
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Excellent progress!
I saw in an earlier picture that you used the cork gaskets on the fuel tank. That's a good call because the rubber gaskets will swell, almost instantly. I would slather the cork with Permatex Aviation sealer and also get rid of the rubber o-rings that are on the bolts. Those o-rings swell too. Just slather the bolt threads with the aviation sealer and you will be good to go.
Andrew
I saw in an earlier picture that you used the cork gaskets on the fuel tank. That's a good call because the rubber gaskets will swell, almost instantly. I would slather the cork with Permatex Aviation sealer and also get rid of the rubber o-rings that are on the bolts. Those o-rings swell too. Just slather the bolt threads with the aviation sealer and you will be good to go.
Andrew