2001 Suburban 2500 engine swap
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2001 Suburban 2500 engine swap I have a 2001 Chevy suburban with bad 6.0 motor, only has 128,000 on it, I would like to swap it with a L96 motor or am I going to create a lot of problem in doing this?
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Well, it has multiple misfire codes, I have done plugs wires, coil, multiple sensors. Did a wet/dry compression test on cold motor, it shows 180 being best worst 150 on dry test, wet test 200 best 170 being worst. ran it up to operating temp. re-compression tested, cylinders dropped under 100 , testing at 70 and 90 pounds. Added oil to cylinders when warm, compression back up to 175 and 200.The vehicle just struggles to pull my 7500 pound travel trailer, my 5.3 pulls better and has twice the mileage on it.
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I still may do that, but a new crate motor from GM is $4000 and i have to swap all my parts onto it, because they don't come ready to install. it makes 300 hp and 340 pounds of tork.
the L96 motor comes complete from GM for $5400 and is ready to install. that motor makes 360 HP with 380 Foot pounds of tork. I know I would have to do modifications on the computer for it to run properly, but it would be better for my towing purposes. i am just wondering if it is too much of a project to make the modifications needed. I guess I need to know if someone has done it and if it is worth the bother.
the L96 motor comes complete from GM for $5400 and is ready to install. that motor makes 360 HP with 380 Foot pounds of tork. I know I would have to do modifications on the computer for it to run properly, but it would be better for my towing purposes. i am just wondering if it is too much of a project to make the modifications needed. I guess I need to know if someone has done it and if it is worth the bother.
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Just get a lower mileage or rebuilt lq4, if you need more power put a truck oriented cam in it and a tune. My understanding is the factory tune on the lq4's leave a lot of power on the table.
Switching to the l96/gev iv motor will end up costing quite a bit more then the $5400.
Switching to the l96/gev iv motor will end up costing quite a bit more then the $5400.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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Thank you, that confirms my thoughts on this, my feelings were leading that way. It's been alot of trying to figure this out. Probably will put another lq4 in it. I will be taking this one apart to see what the true problem is first.
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Well, it has multiple misfire codes, I have done plugs wires, coil, multiple sensors. Did a wet/dry compression test on cold motor, it shows 180 being best worst 150 on dry test, wet test 200 best 170 being worst. ran it up to operating temp. re-compression tested, cylinders dropped under 100 , testing at 70 and 90 pounds. Added oil to cylinders when warm, compression back up to 175 and 200.The vehicle just struggles to pull my 7500 pound travel trailer, my 5.3 pulls better and has twice the mileage on it.
Now, my question is could I have cracks in my cylinder heads, that when I add oil when the cylinders are warm that the compression comes back up. Is it possible I have weak cylinder heads? It doesn't oil or smoke that i can detect.
anybody have ANY IDEAS?? I haven't had time to take is apart yet.
Thanks for any thoughts on this, I am heading off to work now.
Now, my question is could I have cracks in my cylinder heads, that when I add oil when the cylinders are warm that the compression comes back up. Is it possible I have weak cylinder heads? It doesn't oil or smoke that i can detect.
anybody have ANY IDEAS?? I haven't had time to take is apart yet.
Thanks for any thoughts on this, I am heading off to work now.
I was under the impression that adding oil during the compression test was to identify if the rings were the problem, not a cracked head. I also vote to get a new 6.0 or have your current 6.0 rebuilt in lieu of getting a gen IV crate motor. Less hassle and you have lots of options to bump up your hp/tq numbers to help you tow.
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id guess the rings are clapped out. but youd be way cheaper pulling the 6.0, machine shop visit and replacing what needs replacing.
ive seen a couple cranks have the tone ring for the crank sensor get deformed/break teeth and cause bizarre spark issues. basically the computer loses its place at certain RPMs causing misfires.
ive seen a couple cranks have the tone ring for the crank sensor get deformed/break teeth and cause bizarre spark issues. basically the computer loses its place at certain RPMs causing misfires.
