Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 10:33 PM
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Hi There:
I have transplanted a 2001 5.3 vortec in my 79 Z28. My current problem is the engine keep cranking with no start when the ignition switch is turned on. I can start the engine with remote starter with the ignition switch in accessory, I hear the fuel pump comes on. Initially I had an issue that the ignition key wouldn't go further than the accessory but that solved. The issue was related to me removing the safety switch linkage and for some reason the connection on steering connection section was pushed down. Does my new issue can be related to the old one?!
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 11:08 PM
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It should not start in ACCESSORY. Looks like you need to sort out the ignition switch, or get a new one.
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
It should not start in ACCESSORY. Looks like you need to sort out the ignition switch, or get a new one.
I guess I need to clarify this, if I turn the ignition switch on, it just cranks but doesn't start. If I turn the ignition to accessory position, I hear the fuel pump primes, engine doesn't crank in accessory unless I use my remote starter, which in this case engine cranks and it stats with no issue.
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 02:56 AM
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Sounds like you lose power to something when it's on start. I would check the wires you have that are switched 12v and constant to make sure they're getting power when the key is on start.
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by HRDWRK
I guess I need to clarify this, if I turn the ignition switch on, it just cranks but doesn't start. If I turn the ignition to accessory position, I hear the fuel pump primes, engine doesn't crank in accessory unless I use my remote starter, which in this case engine cranks and it stats with no issue.
Yes, it sounds like you have your "accessory" and "start/run" wires crossed. Your car should NOT start nor run if it's in the "accessory" position, regardless of your method of turning the engine over. Even if the engine is running, the car should stall if you switch your key from the "run" position back to "accessory." The only way the engine will run in "accessory" is if you have your wires crossed somewhere. You need to recheck your wiring.
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 8.Lug
Yes, it sounds like you have your "accessory" and "start/run" wires crossed. Your car should NOT start nor run if it's in the "accessory" position, regardless of your method of turning the engine over. Even if the engine is running, the car should stall if you switch your key from the "run" position back to "accessory." The only way the engine will run in "accessory" is if you have your wires crossed somewhere. You need to recheck your wiring.
8-LUG is correct, trust him
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 8.Lug
Yes, it sounds like you have your "accessory" and "start/run" wires crossed. Your car should NOT start nor run if it's in the "accessory" position, regardless of your method of turning the engine over. Even if the engine is running, the car should stall if you switch your key from the "run" position back to "accessory." The only way the engine will run in "accessory" is if you have your wires crossed somewhere. You need to recheck your wiring.
^^^ this.
Make sure the ECU gets power while cranking.
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 07:43 PM
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So here where I am stock!
I thought I have crossed the wires for ignition and accessory on ignition switch connectors as it was mentioned above despite what it has written on them, by the way I am rewiring the car using EZ wiring 21 circuit which doesn't have much of instruction but the wires have been labeled every few feet. I swap their positions, still the same issue, power to just about everything with the key in accessory position and no start on start/run position. I called EZ wiring and their tech said very quickly it is the ignition switch issue. I changed the ignition switch, still the same problem. Now, one thing worth mentioning, the engine started two times during all these process of exchanges and testing wiring which made me think if there is a short somewhere. One other thing, the EZ wiring doesn't have any dedicate ground connection for their harness. The tech guy said the grounds are through individual circuit. I don't know if that makes any difference.
I can use any help you can give.
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Old Jul 28, 2018 | 02:15 AM
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Plain and simple fact - if your engine runs in the "accessory" position, your wiring is wrong. We can't do any more for you through a computer screen, this is on you now.
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Old Jul 29, 2018 | 09:15 AM
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Get a voltmeter, check voltage to the ecu and coils in acc, run, and cranking position.
I suspect, like everyone else, you have it wired wrong. But there's also the possibility your ignition switch does not provide ecu/coil voltage in the crank position.
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Old Jul 30, 2018 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
Get a voltmeter, check voltage to the ecu and coils in acc, run, and cranking position.
I suspect, like everyone else, you have it wired wrong. But there's also the possibility your ignition switch does not provide ecu/coil voltage in the crank position.
I Think I have isolated the problem to ignition switch, although I put a new one. The problem is either when I turn the key, the power comes on but engine doesn't crank or if I move the witch, it cranks but it cuts the power off. God knows how many time I have tried to adjust the switch with no luck. What I have done now is position it in a way with the key turned in run position I have the power and I am using a push button starter to start the engine since I was/am so eager to get the car on the road, which I did. Good feeling beside the ignition issue.
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