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Anybody have any thoughts for this issue I'm trying to avoid, headers right next to control arm bushings.
I'm concerned about the bushings melting. Header material is 304 stainless, I've had them ceramic coated.
Bushing material is Delrin, I do not know exactly what Delrin is so I don't know how much heat
they will tolerate, I'm going to call UMI when I get a chance and ask them how much heat they can
tolerate.
So does anybody know of any very thin heat reflective material that they know works.
I have a heat sleeve that I can try, and I have some heat tape both Summit Racing products.
I have not driven vehicle yet, still in the finishing up stages.
Thanks for that!! It's in a S10 pick up, and everything is very tight.
The next concern was the clutch hydraulic line and o2 sensor wire, it is about an inch over the front part of the header collector
and the flashing will probably work there as well.
You're not melting bushings like that. This is fine the way it is. The ceramic coating was even overkill. Big time overkill.
Over kill on ceramic coated headers? I did not have them coated because of the control arm bushings, they were coated before I realized they are so close to the bushings. I'm guessing you have never had them, because if you did you would not ever not have them, they cut
so much underhood heat down. In a S10 with a v8 as with most vehicles with headers, it gets pretty toasty under that hood, and every little bit
helps. That is my personal experience, not something I read on the internet.
You might want to read what he wrote a little more closely. I read it as being unneeded to protect the bushing.
What is the point of asking for advice if you have already made up your mind what you want to do?
With that said here is some more solicited advice. Hydraulic lines shouldn't be anywhere near headers, but they are easy to re-route. O2 lines typically have some sort of thermal sleeve the last few inches. How close can they get? Don't want to further insult you with additional internet wizdom but just keep them from flexing into each other. Obviously wires should not touch any exhaust component. I had a wire on a replacement O2 sensor short out that way. Thought I had it well secured but found out otherwise. First hand experience, that.
Yeah, I read that as well when I purchased them, I was really looking for actual knowledge from people with
hands on experience, not internet wizdum.
What I know about Delrin is from personal experience, NOT internet wizdum, which I never relate to others unless I know from other sources. So park the attitude...
Delrin or Neoprene? One bad side of delrin is it doesn't recover if over stressed, But its highly self lubricating , better than Neoprene in that respect.. I use sintered bronze when it absolutely,,,positively needs to stay put.. (Road racing cars in my case. )
Over kill on ceramic coated headers? I did not have them coated because of the control arm bushings, they were coated before I realized they are so close to the bushings. I'm guessing you have never had them, because if you did you would not ever not have them, they cut
so much underhood heat down. In a S10 with a v8 as with most vehicles with headers, it gets pretty toasty under that hood, and every little bit
helps. That is my personal experience, not something I read on the internet.
Have you ever actually ran uncoated stainless headers before? Stainless is not the same as mild steel. I do run stainless long tubes on my car - and I guarantee I make way more heat than you do - and the heat under my hood is just fine. You also seem to be one of those people that thinks because the heat is too much for YOU to take, that it somehow means it’s too hot for all the parts under the hood that are specifically designed for that 300+ degree heat.
You might want to read what he wrote a little more closely. I read it as being unneeded to protect the bushing.
What is the point of asking for advice if you have already made up your mind what you want to do?
With that said here is some more solicited advice. Hydraulic lines shouldn't be anywhere near headers, but they are easy to re-route. O2 lines typically have some sort of thermal sleeve the last few inches. How close can they get? Don't want to further insult you with additional internet wizdom but just keep them from flexing into each other. Obviously wires should not touch any exhaust component. I had a wire on a replacement O2 sensor short out that way. Thought I had it well secured but found out otherwise. First hand experience, that.
What he wrote was not gonna melt any bushings that way, and then he comes back with and even the
coating was overkill, meaning not needed at all with "way overkill" you read it however makes you fuzzy inside, I don't care.
And I didn't take it in any sort of derogatory manner, and I didn't respond to him in any derogatory manner, if you took it that, don't know what to tell you.
8.lug doesn't come across to me as someone who takes offense when someone doesn't sugar coat everything.
Now my only question was, anybody know of a thin heat reflector? how did you come up with why was I asking for advice if my mind was made up? WTH
Your last statement was completely voluntary, no problem there. As I am sure you know where the Hydraulic line comes out of the
T56 Trans, and the location of long tube headers on a S10 theres not much room there, so along with the Multiple, multiple, wraps of heat tape,
and a heat sleeve over that, all materials mentioned in first post, I thought the flashing that was suggested was an extra plus. The O2 wires are wrapped the same way
the hydraulic line is and maybe an inch away. Didn't ask anything or request any info on that, so didn't feel that info was needed.
G as Patron so tastefully suggested go get some Bubble Gum.
Delrin or Neoprene? One bad side of delrin is it doesn't recover if over stressed, But its highly self lubricating , better than Neoprene in that respect.. I use sintered bronze when it absolutely,,,positively needs to stay put.. (Road racing cars in my case. )
Delrin, I was just looking for a better handling S10 and without any real experience on the suspension side, the UMI
uppers sounded tasty, with the relocated balljoint and stiffer bushings I thought I would give these a try. Didn't have any Idea that the Stainless Works 1 7/8 longtubes
was so tight in there, so we shall see.
EDIT I'm using the UMI lowers with the same Delrin as well, didn't want
any feedback about not using same bushing Material.
Have you ever actually ran uncoated stainless headers before? Stainless is not the same as mild steel. I do run stainless long tubes on my car - and I guarantee I make way more heat than you do - and the heat under my hood is just fine. You also seem to be one of those people that thinks because the heat is too much for YOU to take, that it somehow means it’s too hot for all the parts under the hood that are specifically designed for that 300+ degree heat.
No, I have not. The coating is already there so no reason to debate that. First set of Stainless, first S10 WITH LS1, not a big selection of headers.
A couple decades ago a pick up I was very familiar with, got his headers coated and we saw a huge difference in cab heat.
I was sporting an S10 with a V8 and I couldn't get any girls to ride with me after their first ride, one of the girls actually
asked is this why they call these hot rods, it was very toasty in there. I got my headers coated and was a huge difference in inside cab heat. So
my main reason for coated headers is inside cab temp.
I'm from the camp that thinks ALL HEADERS SHOULD BE CERAMIC COATED. My under-hood temps are ridiculous due to stainless LT headers. My average IAT's are in the 140+ range. That is just killing horsepower. I honestly am looking into a set of coated headers right now. I'll bet you that in my situation going from un-coated, to coated, will gain me at least 10HP due to the decreased under-hood, and also intake air, temps. My IAT's will spike to 150+ in under 5 minutes from sitting at a red light. Other than cutting a hole in my hood, and pointing the intake tube up through the hood, ceramic coated headers is the next thing to change in line. Though I think a "stinger" sticking up through the hood and slightly angling back towards the windshield would look cool.. I don't know how the air filter would handle being wet if/when it rains.
If I could devise a way to make my cowl induction hood functional and feed air into the engine from there.. Now that would be cool. My concern then would be if the sheet metal hood would then heat up from the under hood temps and I'd have the exact same problem I have already.
Cut a hole in the center and put one of those 3 hole bug catchers with the butterflies in the front, then pipe it to the throttle body.
My air intake is made out of some sort of thin metal piping, just at idle in the garage my IAT got to 120ish, I am going to wrap my air intake with a thermal heat blanket sort of thing,
Thermal cool product, I see Summit has it, like a 24x36 piece for $35 or $40, and I'm going to put some kind of "wall" around the
filter, and cut as many holes in the core support in front of the filter hoping it will draw air in from the front more than underhood
air. Still have quite a bit of finishing up to do before its roadworthy.
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Heat from Headers issue 
