Lq9 jeep swap help
#1
Lq9 jeep swap help
Hello everyone, let me start off by saying I'm bran new to this forum so if I'm in the wrong section please let me know where to move this too.
I have a 88 jeep XJ that I am putting a lq9 and 4l65e out of a 04 Escalade which is drive by wire into. It will also have a 231/300 doubler t case behind it. I bought all I needed to do this swap from Novak adapters and have everything sitting ready to start the swap. I do have a few questions before I get to far into this as my jeep is usable right now as it sits. I should also mention that this is a off road jeep only so the only gauges I'll run are temperature, oil pressure, and a volt's and amp gauge.
Having said that, this motor will have a mild cam in it. Maybe a 50 hp increase at the fly wheel. My concerns are these and this is where I'm seeking advice
1. I'm worried the 4l65e wont last to long due to not being able to hold up to the abuse. I dont really need overdrive so I'm thinking about possibly doing a turbo 400 tranny.
2. How will a turbo 400 tranny work with my engine being drive by wire. Will I need to change the throttle body and computer harness? If I do that will the turbo 400 bolt right up to the motor or will there be issues their also?
thanks in advance also sorry for the long winded post
I have a 88 jeep XJ that I am putting a lq9 and 4l65e out of a 04 Escalade which is drive by wire into. It will also have a 231/300 doubler t case behind it. I bought all I needed to do this swap from Novak adapters and have everything sitting ready to start the swap. I do have a few questions before I get to far into this as my jeep is usable right now as it sits. I should also mention that this is a off road jeep only so the only gauges I'll run are temperature, oil pressure, and a volt's and amp gauge.
Having said that, this motor will have a mild cam in it. Maybe a 50 hp increase at the fly wheel. My concerns are these and this is where I'm seeking advice
1. I'm worried the 4l65e wont last to long due to not being able to hold up to the abuse. I dont really need overdrive so I'm thinking about possibly doing a turbo 400 tranny.
2. How will a turbo 400 tranny work with my engine being drive by wire. Will I need to change the throttle body and computer harness? If I do that will the turbo 400 bolt right up to the motor or will there be issues their also?
thanks in advance also sorry for the long winded post
#2
On my 98 TJ LS6/4L60E swap I've plowed snow with it for over 10 years. Trans has been fine. Not a rock crawler or anything but no signs of giving up. I have 241R out of a Rubi. I would be more worried about that 231 than the trans. My jeep is a summer time around town hot rod. In a different TJ swap I used a 231 with a wide chain kit and SYE. Never had a problem. I like the overdrive trans for highway running. With the low torque of the 6.0 do you really need the TC doubler?
With the right parts the 400 will bolt up. I don't know about the DBW stuff. Mine is DBC. I've used Speartech and Howell for computers and harnesses and they both worked well.
What are you going to use for a rear end? I used a 8.8 Explower 4:10 gears. Cheap and they come with disc brakes.
With the right parts the 400 will bolt up. I don't know about the DBW stuff. Mine is DBC. I've used Speartech and Howell for computers and harnesses and they both worked well.
What are you going to use for a rear end? I used a 8.8 Explower 4:10 gears. Cheap and they come with disc brakes.
#3
On my 98 TJ LS6/4L60E swap I've plowed snow with it for over 10 years. Trans has been fine. Not a rock crawler or anything but no signs of giving up. I have 241R out of a Rubi. I would be more worried about that 231 than the trans. My jeep is a summer time around town hot rod. In a different TJ swap I used a 231 with a wide chain kit and SYE. Never had a problem. I like the overdrive trans for highway running. With the low torque of the 6.0 do you really need the TC doubler?
With the right parts the 400 will bolt up. I don't know about the DBW stuff. Mine is DBC. I've used Speartech and Howell for computers and harnesses and they both worked well.
What are you going to use for a rear end? I used a 8.8 Explower 4:10 gears. Cheap and they come with disc brakes.
With the right parts the 400 will bolt up. I don't know about the DBW stuff. Mine is DBC. I've used Speartech and Howell for computers and harnesses and they both worked well.
What are you going to use for a rear end? I used a 8.8 Explower 4:10 gears. Cheap and they come with disc brakes.
. Yes I'll keep the doubler for two reason. 1 being I already have it installed and it's only the planetary set in it so its strong enough.. 2 my axles only have 3:73 gears they are a dana 60 and a 10.5 steering rear end
#5
I would go with the TH400 over the 4L60E if you won't be doing any long distance touring. As long as you can mount a VSS in the tailhousing you are good to go, just eliminate the rest of the transmission wiring from the harness and use a tune for a manual transmission.
so how would the tranny know when to shift with a manual tune .. also would that work with a drive by wire and not a drive by cable
#6
If you going with the 400 turbo there is no interface between the engine and trans. If I recall correctly the 400 has a switch on the gas pedal for down shifting. Lokar I believe has similar switch that mounts to the side of the trans. The 400 has a internal governor and modulator to control shift points. I don't see the need for a VSS signal unless you are going to use an aftermarket electronic speedo. I used all Novak swap parts. Good stuff that's held up well. If you go turbo 400 would you be better off running one of the old style gear driven transfer case?
#7
TECH Addict
Rod Hall used to pump 6 to 800 HP through the NP231's back in the day ,,,
Running north of 125 MPH ..
The chains wear out but they are less than 100 bucks and take about an hour to change.
you can put a 241 chain and sprocket set in the 231 and your way more likely
to break a yoke/driveline than the t-case..
You won't find a "lot" of use for the ultra low range behind the automatic,, comes in handy in tight spots when maneuvering..
Oh and post pics, I'm in parts acquisition mode on my YJ.. Love to see how stuff fits on yours as you go.
Running north of 125 MPH ..
The chains wear out but they are less than 100 bucks and take about an hour to change.
you can put a 241 chain and sprocket set in the 231 and your way more likely
to break a yoke/driveline than the t-case..
You won't find a "lot" of use for the ultra low range behind the automatic,, comes in handy in tight spots when maneuvering..
Oh and post pics, I'm in parts acquisition mode on my YJ.. Love to see how stuff fits on yours as you go.
Trending Topics
#8
Rod Hall used to pump 6 to 800 HP through the NP231's back in the day ,,,
Running north of 125 MPH ..
The chains wear out but they are less than 100 bucks and take about an hour to change.
you can put a 241 chain and sprocket set in the 231 and your way more likely
to break a yoke/driveline than the t-case..
You won't find a "lot" of use for the ultra low range behind the automatic,, comes in handy in tight spots when maneuvering..
Oh and post pics, I'm in parts acquisition mode on my YJ.. Love to see how stuff fits on yours as you go.
Running north of 125 MPH ..
The chains wear out but they are less than 100 bucks and take about an hour to change.
you can put a 241 chain and sprocket set in the 231 and your way more likely
to break a yoke/driveline than the t-case..
You won't find a "lot" of use for the ultra low range behind the automatic,, comes in handy in tight spots when maneuvering..
Oh and post pics, I'm in parts acquisition mode on my YJ.. Love to see how stuff fits on yours as you go.
I definitely will when I get started on the tear down .. the chain wont be an issue for me as I have only the front planetary out of the 231 for the doubler set up
#9
TECH Resident
iTrader: (2)
LS1-TJ pretty much covered it, the TH400 just needs a vacuum hose from the intake manifold, that and the built in governor control the shifting, or if you like it can be converted to full manual only shifting. The kick down switch located on the OEM gas pedal linkage just knocks it back a gear and maxes out line pressure on WOT, easy to rig up with a momentary switch or the Lokar unit.
#11
That depends a lot on power goals. The c5 filter/regulator with stock pump is ok. But if trying to make power don’t. Ask me how I know :/