New Rear End Options
#21
1978 Caprice with 2004 Avalanche 5.3 and 4l60e. The most I'll ever has is maybe at some point 400 crank hp. Right now it's stock. This is a daily driver. I would like to get a new bolt in unit that would have Limited Slip, disk brakes and a gear ratio of choice.
. I like to do a burnout, donut or get sideways when it's raining sometimes, but that's about it.
. I like to do a burnout, donut or get sideways when it's raining sometimes, but that's about it.
#23
On a related note, can you fit an 8.625" carrier in an 8.5" housing? Are they like some other rear ends I've seen where the housing is different depending on final drive ratio? I seem to remember some rears were made with like 2.xx ratios and some with 3.xx ration and you couldn't swap a 3.xx ratio carrier into a 2.xx housing. But I could be wrong.
Jay
Jay
#24
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
So if I understand correctly I can basically order new guts for the diff housing, new axles and bearings and I'll be good to go. I suspect I'll order new axles as well as this car's body, and so rear end, probably has near 200K miles on it now. I realize this question may be like asking if "Ford or Chevy is better," but what type or brand of differential should I consider. Are there any generally agreed upon types that I definitely wouldn't want on daily driver? For example, I know enough to know I wouldn't want to buy a locker. Do some have better longevity than others? For the 400 crank hp max level, do 28-32 splines make a difference?.
For bearings and seals, you will want new carrier and pinion bearings, new pinion seal, new axle seals, and diff cover gasket. When you buy new gears you can get an installation kit that will usually come with all the pinion and carrier related bearings and seals, but it will not come with axle bearings and seals. Use Timkin bearings - don't skimp in this area. Find a good differential shop and they can advise you on how to build for this power level - you don't need much.
Consider upgrading to a cast aluminum diff cover - they are more reliable at sealing and some offer carrier support. Also think about whether you want to upgrade to 1350 u-joints - if so you would likely need a new yoke and corresponding bits for the driveshaft. I don't think this is necessary at your power level. If the car has 1310 or 1330 u-joints those are probably fine. For what it's worth I am running 1310s on my Nova.
Last edited by -TheBandit-; 01-22-2019 at 12:17 PM.
#25
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
On a related note, can you fit an 8.625" carrier in an 8.5" housing? Are they like some other rear ends I've seen where the housing is different depending on final drive ratio? I seem to remember some rears were made with like 2.xx ratios and some with 3.xx ration and you couldn't swap a 3.xx ratio carrier into a 2.xx housing. But I could be wrong.
Jay
Jay
The 8.5 10 bolts have a 3 series carrier on 2.73 and higher numerical carriers, if memory serves.