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What would be the easiest and least cost affective way to make this Lt1 z28 steering link now work with my Ls1 set up now.
Well, I would say paying someone $150 per hour, with a 100 hour minimum to machine you up some new joints out of NASA grade titanium would probably be the least cost effective way, and it would be easy since you wouldn't have to do it yourself! But I would think a cheaper route would be to get one from an LS1 car, I don't think the end of the steering columns changed.
The input shaft angles on both of the steering racks is different, but I don’t remember if the coupling geometry is. Have you investigated swapping out the rack with the shaft?
The steering shaft you'll need depends on how you go about your swap. If you swapped an LS1 K-member and steering rack into your car, then you'll need an LS1 steering shaft to match the LS1 rack. Hooker makes 4th-gen F-body LS1 engine mounting stands that bolt directly to a stock LT1 K-member, which require no changes to have to be made to your steering rack or shaft. If you swapped in an aftermarket K-member then that changes things as well.
Is the LS1 K-member stock or aftermarket? Are you experiencing interference when you try to reinstall the LT1 shaft with the LT1 steering rack? if so, where are you experiencing the interference. Your shaft looks very much like the shaft used on the V6 F-body cars and the one shown in this photo with the left side Hooker Blackheart 4th-gen F-body swap engine mounting bracket for the V6 cars.
That makes sense now. If you are trying to use headers designed for a 4th-gen LS1 F-Body you will have to install an LS1 rack and steering shaft in most cases since headers are designed to fit the angular geometry of the LS1 rack/shaft. If you want to use the LT1 rack and steering shaft, it is going to limit your exhaust choices and probaby require you to run exhaust manifolds.
01-23-2019 | 09:57 PM
But I would think a cheaper route would be to get one from an LS1 car, I don't think the end of the steering columns changed.
