1990 Mustang w/ LS1/T56
12-17-2019, 08:12 AM
#21
Received my ICT alternator bracket and manual tensioner and the Tick one man remote bleeder :
Tossed the brackets in there:
Started working on the fuel system since that is holding me up on final install on quite a few parts. Should be able to bang that out this weeek, then time to tackle the wiring.
Tossed the brackets in there:
Started working on the fuel system since that is holding me up on final install on quite a few parts. Should be able to bang that out this weeek, then time to tackle the wiring.
12-17-2019, 01:46 PM
#22
I'm a little late to the party, but my only thought on the fuel system would be to go to -8an feed lines depending on future plans. It's a minor up-cost for much more HP capacity. I've been burned a few times by my own thinking......"I'll only every need 400 rwhp.". Then, a short while later, 600 rwhp and I'm finding limitiations of my -6an fuel system (among other things). Anyway, I know you have the lines already, but food for thought.
12-17-2019, 07:51 PM
#23
I'm a little late to the party, but my only thought on the fuel system would be to go to -8an feed lines depending on future plans. It's a minor up-cost for much more HP capacity. I've been burned a few times by my own thinking......"I'll only every need 400 rwhp.". Then, a short while later, 600 rwhp and I'm finding limitiations of my -6an fuel system (among other things). Anyway, I know you have the lines already, but food for thought.
01-02-2020, 09:56 PM
#24
Moving on, we had a plant shutdown over the holiday's so I avoided everyone as much as I could and banged some stuff out. The thing I was happiest to discover and correct was the gap on the spark plugs. I wanted to check them just for peace of mind and found to to be on avg. .025, quite a bit away from the recommended .055. Corrected that but no pics, I'm sure everyone has seen gapped plugs!
Wrapped the headers and got them installed. Speed engineering makes a good piece, the only struggle I personally had was on the passenger side I had to remove the starter to get the header to go in:
Completed the fuel system, pressurized it and had one leak that ended up being a bad fitting. Swapped out for another 90 AN fitting and all was right in that part of the build:
Finished up the rear battery install, routed new power wire to the alt, and installed a couple circuit breakers for protection:
Also wired in the engine harness and the Trans Am gauges:
That about catches us up, I tried to fire up the car but haven't bought HP tuners until today and VATS was still in enabled so it was a no go. Now All that is left before being able to move under it's own power is removing VATS, getting a drive shaft made, and it should be mobile enough to load up to go to a tuner.
Wrapped the headers and got them installed. Speed engineering makes a good piece, the only struggle I personally had was on the passenger side I had to remove the starter to get the header to go in:
Completed the fuel system, pressurized it and had one leak that ended up being a bad fitting. Swapped out for another 90 AN fitting and all was right in that part of the build:
Finished up the rear battery install, routed new power wire to the alt, and installed a couple circuit breakers for protection:
Also wired in the engine harness and the Trans Am gauges:
That about catches us up, I tried to fire up the car but haven't bought HP tuners until today and VATS was still in enabled so it was a no go. Now All that is left before being able to move under it's own power is removing VATS, getting a drive shaft made, and it should be mobile enough to load up to go to a tuner.
03-06-2020, 04:57 PM
#28
Massive update time, my wife and i decided it was time for a larger house, which meant the car had to be finished ASAP to be able to move it.
The last update I had just got it running, since then everything minus a tune is done.
Everything buttoned up in here:
Got it aligned and the exhaust welded up:
Then took it on it's first rip around town:
Discovered my first problem, and the reason why the LMR guys advise to replace the filler neck grommet while the tank is down. Drove it to work and it kept dying when I came to a stop, seemed fine under partial throttle and roughly 3/4 throttle just died when I wasn't moving. Almost like it was out of gas, impossible I say, I just put gas in it! Low and behold it was low on gas as it had a leak and everytime I would accelerate "hard" it would leak out of the fill tube area. I found this out after trying to fill an almost full tank, but on about gallon 11 in a 12 gallon tank fuel poured out onto the ground.
Got it home to start the fix:
And while on it's maiden voyage I found a few other things I didn't like and wanted to get corrected, since I couldn't take it anywhere.
The gauge bezel that was in the car was barely hanging on, no mounting tabs left, and secured by tape, I went hunting for a replacement
WHile it was out I decided to replace the headlight switch and replace the pigtail too.
Also found a shorted wire thanks to my fuse panel bracket being broke, I just tip tied it up and discovered a wire rubbing, causing the radio to turn off and stay off until another bump loosened it up.
As luck would have it, LMR released their version of the replacement bracket:
Fixed:
Broke a door handle:
Had already bought a replacement last year, and threw them on:
Threw in the JL speakers:
I'm not the biggest fan of this grill result, but new panels are in the future plans:
New plans are to do a black interior switch mainly because I snagged some Bullitt seats the other day, and they are 10 times more comfy and full power:
Driver's seat is pretty smoked but plan to get them recovered too.
That about gets us current, more to come soon.
The last update I had just got it running, since then everything minus a tune is done.
Everything buttoned up in here:
Got it aligned and the exhaust welded up:
Then took it on it's first rip around town:
Discovered my first problem, and the reason why the LMR guys advise to replace the filler neck grommet while the tank is down. Drove it to work and it kept dying when I came to a stop, seemed fine under partial throttle and roughly 3/4 throttle just died when I wasn't moving. Almost like it was out of gas, impossible I say, I just put gas in it! Low and behold it was low on gas as it had a leak and everytime I would accelerate "hard" it would leak out of the fill tube area. I found this out after trying to fill an almost full tank, but on about gallon 11 in a 12 gallon tank fuel poured out onto the ground.
Got it home to start the fix:
And while on it's maiden voyage I found a few other things I didn't like and wanted to get corrected, since I couldn't take it anywhere.
The gauge bezel that was in the car was barely hanging on, no mounting tabs left, and secured by tape, I went hunting for a replacement
WHile it was out I decided to replace the headlight switch and replace the pigtail too.
Also found a shorted wire thanks to my fuse panel bracket being broke, I just tip tied it up and discovered a wire rubbing, causing the radio to turn off and stay off until another bump loosened it up.
As luck would have it, LMR released their version of the replacement bracket:
Fixed:
Broke a door handle:
Had already bought a replacement last year, and threw them on:
Threw in the JL speakers:
I'm not the biggest fan of this grill result, but new panels are in the future plans:
New plans are to do a black interior switch mainly because I snagged some Bullitt seats the other day, and they are 10 times more comfy and full power:
Driver's seat is pretty smoked but plan to get them recovered too.
That about gets us current, more to come soon.
03-09-2020, 12:30 PM
#29
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Then took it on it's first rip around town:
https://i760.photobucket.com/albums/...psb6wq22tw.jpg
Discovered my first problem, and the reason why the LMR guys advise to replace the filler neck grommet while the tank is down. Drove it to work and it kept dying when I came to a stop, seemed fine under partial throttle and roughly 3/4 throttle just died when I wasn't moving. Almost like it was out of gas, impossible I say, I just put gas in it! Low and behold it was low on gas as it had a leak and everytime I would accelerate "hard" it would leak out of the fill tube area. I found this out after trying to fill an almost full tank, but on about gallon 11 in a 12 gallon tank fuel poured out onto the ground.
https://i760.photobucket.com/albums/...psbvonwxc3.jpg
https://i760.photobucket.com/albums/...psb6wq22tw.jpg
Discovered my first problem, and the reason why the LMR guys advise to replace the filler neck grommet while the tank is down. Drove it to work and it kept dying when I came to a stop, seemed fine under partial throttle and roughly 3/4 throttle just died when I wasn't moving. Almost like it was out of gas, impossible I say, I just put gas in it! Low and behold it was low on gas as it had a leak and everytime I would accelerate "hard" it would leak out of the fill tube area. I found this out after trying to fill an almost full tank, but on about gallon 11 in a 12 gallon tank fuel poured out onto the ground.
https://i760.photobucket.com/albums/...psbvonwxc3.jpg
05-16-2020, 12:19 PM
#32
After James did his magic on the car it was abundantly clear I needed new rear rubber. So I ordered a set of Nitto NT555 G2 275/40/17, which made a night and day difference with the car sticking to the road, but as always revealed another thing needing to be addressed on the car. Rolling the rear lips.
It's not terrible but under wide open hits from a stop or slow speeds it makes contact.
Also with the IRS swap making the rear track width 3 inches wider overall, I hated how inboard the front tires appeared. So I ordered a set of 1 inch spacers to push them out for the time being. Later down the road I plan to grab some SN95 control arms for the front to do the same thing.
Grabbed a few items from Maximum Motorsports and threw them on also. New rear shocks, front struts, bump steer kit, CC plates, and a strut tower brace.
Other than that I've been putting miles on it, just seeing what needs to be corrected.
To date the only problems found are, smokes on hard decel which leads me to think i need new valve seals, and the front wheels I bought are badly bent. Took quite a bit of weight to balance them but it's terrifying to drive at the moment. Seems to "float" at highway speeds and will walk all over the lane at random. Almost as if the centrifugal force of the weights on the wheels makes the steering obsolete. So it's parked, minus a quick run to the gas station across the street.
Up next: I've slowly been collecting parts for a few things, T-top swap, A/C, cruise control, and lastly an LSA.
It's not terrible but under wide open hits from a stop or slow speeds it makes contact.
Also with the IRS swap making the rear track width 3 inches wider overall, I hated how inboard the front tires appeared. So I ordered a set of 1 inch spacers to push them out for the time being. Later down the road I plan to grab some SN95 control arms for the front to do the same thing.
Grabbed a few items from Maximum Motorsports and threw them on also. New rear shocks, front struts, bump steer kit, CC plates, and a strut tower brace.
Other than that I've been putting miles on it, just seeing what needs to be corrected.
To date the only problems found are, smokes on hard decel which leads me to think i need new valve seals, and the front wheels I bought are badly bent. Took quite a bit of weight to balance them but it's terrifying to drive at the moment. Seems to "float" at highway speeds and will walk all over the lane at random. Almost as if the centrifugal force of the weights on the wheels makes the steering obsolete. So it's parked, minus a quick run to the gas station across the street.
Up next: I've slowly been collecting parts for a few things, T-top swap, A/C, cruise control, and lastly an LSA.
