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P2138 - LS3 + Dakota Digital Cruise Control

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Old 12-30-2019, 01:38 PM
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Which harness/pcm are you running?
Old 12-30-2019, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Yount
Suspect that any wire in the PSI harness is the speed signal coming OUT of the ecu after the VSS signal going IN to the ecu has been processed. I have my VSS going into the ECU and a separate speed signal (from magnet/pickup/driveshaft) running the DD cruise. It oughta take the speed signal from the ecu. But I wonder if you can “split” that signal for use by both the speedo and the cruise. I just don’t know.
I actually have had that black VSS wire split going to both the cruise and gauges all along. I validated that wiring plan with Gary at PSI.

Since my last posting, I have hooked up the DD SEN-4165 Magnet pickup from driveshaft. One thing started working correct: the cruise won't set unless up to 25-30mph. Before it would set at 20 (which actually I'k like to have...the speed limit in our subdivision is 20). But, it still throws a p2138 code when I set it.


Originally Posted by 130fe
Which harness/pcm are you running?
I am using a PSI converstion package. I'd have to ask them which PCM they use.

Latest...
I had DD and PSI conferenced together. We discussed the fact I have LED taillights, and need a relay if that's the case. I do have one, and we validated it is wired correctly.

Later conversation, the DD rep suggested I test voltage variances between wires. There are 2 that would be at 4v at wot, and 2 that would be 2v at wot. He said they shouldn't vary by more than .2/10 of a volt. The P2138 is indicative apparently (according to PSI) of mismatched voltage between 2 wires. DD said for the 2 wires, I could hook the + lead to 1, and the - lead to the other, and it would display the variance. (Very interesting...).

Then a while later DD called me and said he had discussed with engineering, and was told I need to hook a couple of the wires together. Unfortunately I wasn't home, and couldn't take notes. I sent him an email with a pic of the connectors, asking for specific info on that patch. He said that engineering was pretty affirmative of this solving the problems.

​​​​​​​I'll post an update after that/those tests.

Old 12-30-2019, 08:16 PM
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Fingers crossed....
Old 12-31-2019, 07:46 PM
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Default Two Steps Forward, One Step Back - Yields different results

On first installation, Rostra had told me to take the Cruise Control box's ground to the purple ground wire in the pedal. I've been running it that way for a year and half, or more, with very intermittent P2138 codes.

Gary at PSI was not enthused with any breaking into the pedal wiring. (Note that I did not do this on the pedal harness from PSI. The cruise control has two connectors that nets out with the cruise control in between the pedal and PSI harness. So initially it was pedal, PSI harness. Now it is pedal, cruise female harness connector, to pedal, male harness connector to the PSI pedal harness. This is the one that had the ground inserted.

At any rate, as the frequency increased for the P2138s, remembering that Gary didn't like that ground there, I cut it out and took the ground for the cruise to a ground post on a small fuse box on the firewall.

. Now, here's an interesting thing: My cruise had been a bit funky, in that when I set it, it would surge 3-5 mph, then settle down to the speed I had set it at. AFter changeing that ground, that funky stuff stopped, but the P2138s became even more prevalant

So, the DD rep had talked to his engineering group, and they said to do this: Ground the cruise box to a good ground; T into that and take that wire over and T into the purple wire at the pedal. (At this point I had received a new harness and cruise box to see if it helped...it didn't).

So, with the ground done as requested, I started to take a drive, and when I put it in drive, and pressed the pedal to move forward, within ~3 seconds, it would throw the P2138 code. No go.

So I pulled the cruise wire off it's ground...leaving it connected to the purple wire at the pedal..which is a ground. So the cruise is getting it's ground at this point through the pedal. (This is actually what I had been told at one time was a goal...for the crusie and pedal to have same ground.)

So, when I drive it now, it does NOT throw a P2138. Yayyyyy!!!

BUT

Now, when I set the cruise, it sets and starts accelerating. Just keeps speeding up.

Next thing they wanted me to do was take that cruise gnd to the back of the head (where my battery, 2 gnds for the engine harness, and a strap gnd from head to frame is mounted). So, I did that, and as I expected it made no difference.

So, I think I am over the P2138 (although at one point it was so intermittent that I could drive 350 miles before it would come up...so, I'm not counting my eggs yet).

I have been CCing a rep at Rostra through this, but he seems to have stopped paying attention. I plan to call Rostra after the holidays and see if they have any ideas.


Last edited by ewingr; 01-01-2020 at 09:08 AM.
Old 01-03-2020, 04:40 PM
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Default Eureka!!!

After a few iterations of different things (regarding the acceleration problem), I finally asked their tech to give me the wire colors for the different functions of the cruise control handle I am using. I was thinking that something about the handle may be screwed up, because it was acting like I was holding the resume/accel button down. They told me the yellow wire was for the resume/accel. I cut that wire, and took it for a test drive. And, yes, that fixed the accell problem.

So, I am hopeful that with a new cruise handle that all my problems are fixed.

I'm just a bit wary about the P2138 being fixed, because for so long it was so intermittent. I could drive for 3 months with no problem, then all of a sudden it'd throw the code. But lately it was quickly and easily reproducible. So, now that it's stopped, my fingers are crossed.

Old 01-03-2020, 09:26 PM
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I saw you doing the Snoopy dance....
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Old 03-09-2020, 03:12 PM
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Well...*(*^()^^(%!@#$% !!! The P2138 code is back again. I have taken the wiring out of the pedal for now.

I'm about to decide that the Dakota Digital cruise is problematic.

The OEM cruise in the harness on my '56 with the LS1 works flawless. I wonder why that method is done away with for the LS3.

Anyone know of another cruise control source?
Old 03-09-2020, 03:55 PM
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Found this ...Tap-N-Cruise. A bit pricey. Maybe something to look at.

Old 09-10-2022, 04:36 PM
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I know this is an old thread. I have been chasing this issue for a few years now.
I drove the truck probably 30,000 miles without an issue.....then it started
I've changed the computer, Throttle body, pigtail at TB, Pedal, DD cruise harness

Still have issues.
I have a new pedal pigtail but haven't done the swap yet.

Did grounding the DD and purple together fix it?

I currently drive with the DD harness off. The rest of the system is hooked up. Did you find that this configuration still threw the code?

I'm new here and can't figure out how to private message

HELP!
thanks
Old 09-10-2022, 04:55 PM
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You can't PM until you have a certain # of posts here.
Check all your wiring for burns, chafes, breaks, etc.
If this failure started out of the blue, it is likely a connection or bad wire.
Also check all grounds,as they are very important
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Old 02-21-2023, 03:39 PM
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Default P2138 problem

Originally Posted by ewingr
I have had my conversion running for a year and half. Periodically I get a P2138 code. Engine light comes on, pedal stops responding. I have to pull over, and reset codes to get back on the road.

It has been intermittent. I may drive 350 miles with no problem, then all of a sudden it will happen every 2-10 miles.

I replaced the pedal thinking that would fix it. Nope...it did not.

I have a Dakota Digital cruise control, which has a harness that is inserted between the pedal connector and the pedal. I am suspicious of this being the problem. I have pulled that out, leaving no cruise, and will be driving for a while to see what happens. But, to be confident, I'll have to have success for quite a while.

Just wondering if anyone else has run into this and has any thoughts/ideas.
I’m actually glad to see your post because I’ve been chasing this problem for four years and just over the last month I’ve disconnected the ALDL cable that runs the tach it come on yet but what you’re describing is exactly what I’ve been having but so far it hasn’t done it since I left the cable off
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