I've got a 1991 Coupe that I'm working on along with a crate LS376/480 and a Tremec T56 Magnum. This is the Holley computer system that I have to run the engine: Terminator LS MPFI Kit 550-611

The instructions mention several DBW pedals that will work. However, I'm wondering if anyone has actually installed a DBW pedal in a Fox Body Mustang and has comments on how easy or hard it was to physically get it to fit in place. I'm sure that some pedals will physically install easier than others and I'd like easy! I've got the electrical harness so that is not a problem.

I did a search on this question and came up with nothing but maybe someone has some info. Thanks.

 

I put a '07 Corvette DBW pedal in my '86 SVO/LS2 swap. It wasn't too bad, but not a simple bolt in. I made a bracket that bolted on to the pedal sensor assembly, and attached it to the studs that hold the steering column in at the firewall. That put the pedal against the trans tunnel, so I cut the pedal arm and made some spacers to move it over to get it where I wanted it. If you give me a couple of days I can dig out some pics.

 

I'd love to see some pictures of your DBW pedal installation. I'm getting the feeling that whatever pedal I decide to buy, some fabrication is going to be required. Please post the pics when you find them. Thanks.

 

Here are the pics of my DBW pedal install...

 

rtagg, thank you for posting those pictures of your DBW pedal installation. It looks neat and clean. Very nice. Those pictures give me plenty of information for my planning!

I'm going off on a tangent here but it's my thread ! rtagg, how are you operating your clutch? What transmission are you using?

I've got a T56 Magnum and a Modern Driveline hydraulic conversion kit.

 

In the spirit of more ideas - I put a crate LS430 in my old Volvo. I took careful measurements of where the stock Volvo pedal sat as it was perfectly placed for easy heel/toe action with the brake pedal. I used a 2008 Corvette DBW unit. I cut the pedal off and attached the lower part of the OEM Volvo pedal to the Corvette DBW arm. Angle/position/mounting all done to put the pedal itself exactly back where it had been before. I bolted it together, test fit it in the car, and then welded the Volvo arm to the Corvette arm. I was able to bolt the Corvette unit directly to my firewall. Good luck with your swap - sounds like rtagg has you headed in a workable direction.

 

I'm using a Ford T-56 out of an '04 Mustang Cobra. Since my SVO and the Mustang Cobra donor both used a cable clutch and I have never been a fan of hydraulic clutches, I modified an LS bell housing to accommodate the clutch fork and went with my existing cable setup. Bob Hanlon at Hanlon Motorsports in PA set me up with the LS bell at a good price, and a slightly longer LS pilot bearing to make up for the Ford trans having a slightly shorter input shaft. The system works great, is adjustable, and IMO has fewer headaches than the hydro setups.

If you have any more LS in a Fox questions feel free to ask, I'm happy to help. If there is any interest, I could always do a "post build" thread.


Randy

 

Used the Volvo cable clutch on mine too Randy -- works just great. I don't mind a hydraulic clutch -- but I don't like having the slave cylinder INSIDE the bell housing where if anything goes awry, the tranny has to come out to deal with it.

 

My thought exactly, it seems like quite a few people in the Manual Transmission section have issues with the internal TO bearing. If I had to go hydraulic, I would definitely do an external slave, but I still like the feedback from a cable clutch best.

Randy

 

As a teenager, I learned how to drive via an automatic transmission car. Within a couple of years, I really wished that I had and could drive a manual transmission car. While in college, my best friend had a 1980 5-sp Toyota Celica. He taught me to drive a stick and I've never looked back!

That being said, I'm not totally experienced with working on manual transmissions and swaps. I replaced the OEM 3-sp turbo 350 in my 1980 Z28 with a Super T-10 4-sp back in 1992. At Christmas time 1994, I replaced that with a Richmond Gear 6-sp. Both of those transmissions and clutch systems were old school with linkages and throw out bearings.

In 1991, I order my 1991 Mustang GT brand new with a 5-sp manual. It, of course is/was a cable actuated clutch. Worked good for all these years. In 2001, I ordered my 2002 WS6 brand new with a T56. It's a hydraulic clutch, of course. It worked great until it didn't. The slave cylinder took a dump on me about 7 yrs ago. I replaced it and the master cylinder. Without going aftermarket, there is no adjustment on the OEM "style" parts. Lots of people seem to have trouble with them. When they work good, they are very smooth and easy on the left leg.

I know on one of these Foxbody conversion threads, TX Fireman had some issues with trying to route his Mustang's clutch cable. The headers were not friendly to the cable. Anyway, I've been disassembling my original 1991 GT as it is totally rust damaged from the salt water air from 10+ yrs of living by the beach in Florida. Its giving up a lot of it's parts to my '91 coupe project. Here is a pic of the 1991 OEM clutch cable when I removed it several months ago (135K miles)

 

I was always very happy with the GT's cable actuated clutch. Very happy. I think the reason why I wanted to go hydraulic was that I was thinking that it is more modern. I know that means nothing and I'll be kicking myself if it gives me grief.

 

I think what you're hearing from both of us is -- nothing wrong with a hydraulic clutch. MILLIONS of oem set ups out there that have worked just fine. Don't forget to flush that fluid as you would your brake fluid periodically. AND, if it uses a hydraulic throw out and something goes wrong with the hydraulic part, the tranny has to come out to deal with that. If you use a clutch arm and a slave cylinder mounted outside the bell housing - that can all be serviced with the transmission in place.

Of course, if the bearing part of the TOB takes a crap -- tranny out, hydraulic or not.

 

I used the newer Hooker swap headers and had zero issues routing the cable, Holley did a nice job when they designed them. I think TX Fireman had some different headers on his.

You may like the hydraulic setup, if you already have the parts, it's worth a try.

 

Yes, TX Fireman used a different brand of headers. In fact, I think he gave up on the first set because he couldn't get them to work with his clutch cable.

I've got the Hooker swap headers as well. It's good to know that they will work with a cable set up. I've already got the Modern Driveline hydraulic conversion kit mounted to my firewall and under the dash. My dash is completely removed so the work was pretty easy.

Randy, do you have a build thread?

 

True!

About the hydraulic fluid-yeah, that stuff gets a really nasty black color. Really nasty looking and it'll give a hydraulic clutch grief!