Hey guys so I've got an n/a 416 LS3 in a C10 pickup with a smallish cam (227/242, 117LSA). I told Cam Motion I would be using the cam with a stock LSA torque converter and the 6L90. The problem is with the truck up in the air idling in Drive, I can't actually bring the rear wheels to a complete stop. I can slow them for 75% of the way, but not stop them. After messing with the brakes and changing parts for a week, I'm wondering if it's the cam? I'm getting -14 inches of vacuum in Park at idle (675rpm) which seems pretty good. I know CTS-V LSA guys with BTR Stage 3 cams are getting around -8-10. The brakes are all new Wilwood stuff. Basic D52 front calipers with Dynapro rear calipers, all spec'd by Wilwood and very common piston sizes used in all sorts of older muscle cars.

I've tried 3 new masters, bench bled them several times, there are no leaks and no bubbles from any of the bleeder fittings. Also checked booster pushrod depth and it's within spec. A little searching on the internet shows that Wilwood quality control has gone way down hill and they had a recall on their master cylinders. So I even tried a parts store C3 Corvette disc/ disc master and it does the exact same thing, so not sure if it's the master at this point.

Just wondering if guys with cammed LSA's/ LS3's using 6L80/90 trans are able to bring their rear wheels to a complete stop with the vehicle in the air?

 

Do you have a proportion valve on the rear adjusted? I would think that you should be able to stop them.

 

What kind of booster are you running? Those aftermarket 7" dual diaphragm boosters that everyone sells are junk. I still have the one I took off my car because it wouldn't stop, sitting on a shelf. Not sure why,because I'll never use it again.

 

Did you try idling it down some?

sounds like you arent getting enough pressure to the rear brakes too, or you didnt bleed them completely. I've had situations when I see no bubbles but it still has air. Want to know a magical and easy way to bleed brakes? An older fellow taught me this. Trust me, this **** works way better than using a vaccum bleeder.

-get a 20oz coke bottle (or something similar) clean it out
-drill a hole in the cap you fit a piece of hose you use for bleeding. make the hose long enough (not really over about 2-3 feet though) to let you set the bottle down
-pour some fresh brake fluid in the bottle, about maybe an inch or two high in the bottle. slide hose in, making sure it stays submerged in fluid the whole time with this.
-connect to bleeder
-open bleeder
-have someone pump the brakes slowly in and out. watch as the air bubbles come out. you can do this alone too, just make sure after 5 or so pumps you check the master cylinder for fluid level. close valve when done.

 

Kfxguy, a MUCH cleaner easier way is to use a Phoenix reverse bleeder.