Joel Clark

So my GTO had a Pontiac 350 in it and it was no fun. I was going to get a better Pontiac motor but was having no luck and a friend convinced me that the best bang for my buck would be an LS motor. After checking a few online "Budget Builds" I decided he was right. Seemed easy cheap and straight forward. Well for a novice like me with only one complete engine build (chevy 383 stroker) im finding this more difficult that I expected. The guides I found originally are deceiving leaving out things like cooling system, exhaust, drive buy wire or cable setups, or fuel lines. So following the guides recommending upgrades like cam shaft, harmonic balancer, oil pump, springs, ect... and thinking I had money to burn I find myself in quickly running out and unsure what makes sense to spend on and where I can cut corners and add on later.
Here's where im at:
Installed so far
LQ4 with 4L60e all old accessories included
motor mounts - trans dapt 4600 TRD-4600
trans mouts - PTP-7-1604
new torque converter - SUM-700336
​​​​​​springs - trick flow tfs - TFS-16918-16
upgraded cam - SUM-8700
upgraded oil pump and chain - SLP-222-4194 MEL-10296
Shiftier mod to use old shiftier -shiftworks SIW-SC2262
Stater - PWM-9109
harmonic balancer upgrade - SUM-C2520
alternator/ steering pump bracket - ict billet 551747
small steering pump pulley - 300-201
new plugs, wires , coil packs -NGK-3186 MSD-32829 SUM-850501R

What I have:
original radiator
lq4 fan
original air conditioner and lq4 conditioner (for later use)
Tanks fuel tank and pump ready to put in TNK-TM34I-T-KIT TNK-TM34-2T TNK-TAN-GMLTNK-ST49TNK-GPA-4
original exhaust headers with- o2
lq4 wiring harness and fuse box
original GTO side pipes

What I need answered is what inexpensive options do I have for the following items since im very low on funds now. And what I just cant go cheap on. Keep in mind im a novice so I dont have any what to completely fabricate many things.

Cooling system - ive read I can use the old radiator but I have my doubts and im not sure how this would be done.
fuel lines - I have steal lines with rubber hose that went to the old tank. will the old lines work? How do I connect them to the new tank? or should I buy something like the GM LS Engine Fuel Line Kit LS-LINE-KIT LS-LINE-KIT from tanks inc.
power to the in tank fuel pump. I was told I can use the old wiring that went to the tank. But I found that tank inc sells a Fuel Pump Relay and Wiring Kit and I think the breakers and relay might be important.
Are there any good cheap options for the exhaust?

Things im still worried about for later but no time to think about now. Do I need to replace my gauges where to get them and how much? Should I get my drive shaft cut and balanced or get a new one? Still need to get the computer flashed and wiring harness made who does that good and cheap? What have I not thought of yet?

If you have guidance or can point me to so that is reputable please help a guy out. Stuck at home and just really want to do something with this time I have.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Okie dokie...
1. You can use your radiator, but you’ll need to go what I call “hose hunting”. It’s where I walk through the radiator hose isle at my local parts store, looking at each hose until I find something I can modify to work. The hoses have some bend allowance, so if you find something close, it will work. Top hose will be the hard one. Bottom hose is easy.
2. Your steel lines would work fine, but you’ll have to adapt them to a high pressure “fuel injection” rubber hose at the ends. I’d go with a full PTFE line setup from tank to fuel rail personally, but your low on funds, so I’m giving you the cheapest way to get the car running here.
3. Buy the relay kit from TanksInc. You DO NOT want to have your car sitting on the side of the road due to a burnt up fuel pump wire. Do it right and use a relay. Always. They are cheap.
4. Cheap exhaust would be to use the LS manifolds and have a shop run a set of pipes back with cheap turbo mufflers. I have a set of Hooker headers that I’d sell, but I know your low on funds.
5. You can buy inexpensive electric gauges at parts stores.
6. Have your driveshaft cut and balanced. Will be cheaper than a new one.
7. PSI has a quality harness and ECM flashing service. That part of this won’t be cheap however. You might find someone to mod your stock harness cheaper. Do some searching on that one.

Keep in mind that whatever you do now, you can always upgrade later on when funds are available. Just don’t cut corners and do something wrong that will get you hurt or cause the car to burn. Whatever you do now, do it right. It’s likely not your daily driver, so be patient and do what you can with what you have. It will all work out in the end.

Joel Clark

Thank you Scott!!! I feel a lot better now. I was at a point were I did know what do next. one follow up question. I have the fan from the lq4. I haven't checked it for fit but if it does fit will the work for cooling with the original radiator or should I look for a universal dual electric fan? You gave me a lot of great info. Oh if you get a sec let me know what you want for the hears in a PM. I wont be able to buy for awhile but if there still around with I get to that part maybe I can swing it. =] thanks again!

gsjimmy

Joel, the Dorman 300-201 PS pump pulley is plastic. You should think about the Dorman 300-202, same pulley, but steel. This only works in the stock SBC Chevelle position. Anything else will interfere with the inner rear bolt on the PS box and possibly the cover. Again, depends on what mounts you go with for the engine. Let me know on the ict billet 551747 alt/ps mount. I'm currently taking care of that issue right now with my GS.

Jim

Joel Clark

Thank you Jim! the Metal pulley will be much better. I replied yesterday with a picture of the ICT billet installed but I think its still under approval to post. Anyway it fits great giving a lot of extra clearance. I am pretty sure the stock pulley would work now but I had removed it already. I think it looks a lot nicer too. I will buy there A/C bracket when its time as well.

gsjimmy

Kool. Can you PM the pic?

Joel Clark

So for some reason I can't send private messages. But I made the pic my profile so you could see it.

gsjimmy

Weird, I can't send to you either. Maybe too new of an account?

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I'll piggyback on what was said above.

1. You can use your radiator and find a right size hose.
2. Your steel lines would work fine, but I've run Nylon lines with great results. Buy bulk 3/8" from Dorman and a few GM quick connects and you are good go. May need an adapter for NPT to quick connect, but they are out there. And to install the fittings look up the caulk gun method.
3. Buy the relay kit from TanksInc. You DO NOT want to have your car sitting on the side of the road due to a burnt up fuel pump wire. Do it right and use a relay. Always. They are cheap. Only thing I'd add is that when you get a harness, you'll likely get a relay for the fuel pump. But new 12 or 14 gauge wire is really cheap insurance.
4. Cheap exhaust would be to use the LS manifolds and have a shop run a set of pipes back with cheap turbo mufflers. I agree with this.
5. You can buy inexpensive electric gauges at parts stores. Or you can adapt most of your existing sensors to the LS motor. Exception would be speedo, and the tach output can be changed from 4 cyl to 8 cyl so the stock tach would work.
6. Have your driveshaft cut and balanced. Will be cheaper than a new one. Agree
7. The kits are a lot, but if you are going to spend money on something I'd go with the Terminator X Max with trans control. I switched recently from a stock ECU and wouldn't go back. That comes with a brand new harness and this forum has lots of support if you need help.

Keep in mind that whatever you do now, you can always upgrade later on when funds are available. Just don’t cut corners and do something wrong that will get you hurt or cause the car to burn. Whatever you do now, do it right. It’s likely not your daily driver, so be patient and do what you can with what you have. It will all work out in the end. I also agree with this statement

Joel Clark

Thank you RyeGuy I'm really glad I finally started asking questions on this site. Ive been trying to get answers for a couple weeks and was getting frustrated. I will order relay kit today. In still tying to decide if its worth it on the lines for me at this time. But I have place to start. Oh I put the radiator back in and the stock lq4 fan fits no problem. So ill go hunt for hose this week and someone local that I can take my drive shaft too. I read that its between 100-200 for the cut and balancing. Im going to tackle the ECU and wiring next. I need to get some pricing. Can you tell me what was the reason/benefit of the Terminator X Max? Just wondering why you switched?

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

The other thing you can do is if you are comfortable with wiring, check out LT1swap.com. they have harness Pinouts so that you can modify your stock harness for stand alone. Then you'd just need to find someone that can flash your ECU for stand alone. If you are handy, that is a great way to save lots of money. Then you can always buy Terminator X in the future if you wanted to upgrade.

Also, before you buy the relay kit, I'd figure out what you are doing with your harness. If you buy a harness that's already modified for stand alone, it should already come with the fuel pump relay integrated.

Joel Clark

Oh I did not know that! Thank you I will check out the wiring. Its worth a look for sure since its one of the larger cost items left on the list.

Joel Clark

So I a have started working on the harness. The lt1swap guides are great! thank you for directing me there. I am about a quarter of the way through. I decided to try and get it running safely now and upgrade later like you guys have suggested.Rye that caulk method for the nylon fuel lines looks pretty simple. I'm searching for a parts list on the forums to price it out. Thanks guys for all the help. Ill keep you posted on my progress.

Joel Clark

Quick update
I decided that I didn't want to ever have to mess with the fuel lines again so I went with the full PTFE line setup from tank to fuel rail as recommend. Both responses recommend an upgraded here and I just don't want to have to deal with it again. And with me waiting on the exhaust and headers I can put funds in the fuel system. For the exhaust I am going to use the old manifold and I still have the ugly pipes with where on it. Now the header that were on it before I think where long tube to a 2 1/2 collector to a 3in pipe. so ill need to take it some place for the 2 pipes unless I can find another solution. Once I put the manifolds on I will have an idea of what I need to make it work. But its mostly free so that helps a lot.

The wiring harness is not to bad but ran into 2 issues. First im using red/blue PMC connections. It was drive by wire and I need to convert to drive by cable. I bought the connections and hopefully can work it out with lt1swap.com. Checked the computer and it will work.
the 2nd Issue is all the transmission neutral safety switch wires were cut. I bought the connections needed and wired the small one connection. The larger connection is the issue. The colors don't match what they should be according to the online docs I've found. Is there a doc some place that has the pins on the pmc connection that routes to the connection pins on the c2 switch?