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Pulled off the front cover and pump and put #1 at TDC on the compression stroke. I have alignment marks on the rear cover and flexplate to verify and the dots lined up like they should. Rotated the crank a couple more times and all good. Flipped the engine over and looked at the cam from the bottom while rotating the crank and didn't see anything unusual. I'm confident all is good with the rotating assembly.
Here are a couple of pics of the reluctor with #1 at TDC on the compression stroke. Would appreciate it if someone could look at them to verify, if possible, the position of the wheel relative to the sensor. It feels solid and fixed but want to sure it is still properly aligned.
#3 intake valve spring and retainer broke. Valve was basically just sliding up/down the guide as the rocker arm or valve contacted it and obviously not closing. In hindsight, I now regret installing the Comp Cams beehives but still it shouldn't have broken with no load it. As for all 8 cylinders running extremely rich, either the O2 sensor got contaminated and signalled lean or each time the piston came up, cylinder pressure would blow pass the open intake valve and build up in the plenum causing the MAP sensor to signal boost pressure. Both seem plausible.
I'm already over it and looking forward. Going to replace the valve and rocker arm, check the guide clearance and get a dual spring kit. Piston has a couple of nicks but "it will buff out".
Intake valve hanging open and the pulsing vacuum wreak havoc on the MAP sensor and it'll run rich and choppy. Seen it many times on OEM stuff at work. I was going to ask if you had checked compression before the tear down, but I was late to the party.
And for anyone reading this if you "loose" an exhaust rocker arm, you'll have a dead miss and good compression but no rich choppy idle. fun fun fun!
Looking forward to seeing this project up and rolling!
Reassembled the engine and dropped the engine/tranny back in the car. Before I did the cooling system, exhaust and I/C plumbing, curiosity got the better of me and I twisted the key...fired right up and ran it for 10 seconds. Finished everything and backed it out the garage for the maiden voyage, but 20' up the driveway I shut it off. Massive overheating from air pockets and with a bad storm rolling in, I put it back in the garage. Since the block was completely drained, guess I didn't get it properly refilled.
Tomorrow is another day and I can rest a little easier now.
Got a couple of test drives in between rain falls and boy, this is going to be a fun ride! It only has 87-octane in it for the initial startup and the maiden voyage, so I am limiting it to 3500 and no boost. it still spins the tires, albeit some crappy 235/50-17s on 8" wheels. After bedding in the brakes, I tested them at 45mph and there's a chance I'm might end up detaching my retinas, LOL. The Volvo S60R 13" front brakes and Explorer 11" rear discs make a nice combo.
Maybe it's all the agony for the last 18 months, but I am stoked.
Well, turns out the LSD clutches are toast and the crappy rear tires are really crap as one of them developed a bad crack which I totally missed. I've parked it for a while to work on some paying projects to fund the LSD upgrade, a pair 15x8 wheels and MT 235 DRs, a pair of 245/45-17s street tires for the rear, a better cooling fan setup, 6-pt roll cage and a couple of other niceties like window tint and steering wheel upgrade. Trying not to go too far overboard or develop a case of whileIamatitisis.
LSD upgrade 15x8's w/235 DR's 245/45/17 rear street tires Better cooling fans 6 pt roll cage window tint steering wheel upgrade AND "trying not to...develop a case of whileIamatititis"
I don't know how to break this to you gently..... But seriously -- now's the time to do it. All of it.
Car is collecting cobwebs but still occassionally working on it. Anxious to get it going again, especially after seeing what rel3rd is getting out of his 78/75 with the .96 exh housing and 3" DP. He's exceeded my HP goal and I have a 1.25 housing, 4" DP and 3.5" dump.
The rear end is out and at my buddy at his shop with a new late Cobra LSD with carbon discs. Gonna try to tighten it up and see how it does with no modifier.
Got a pair of MT 235/60-15 DRs and 15x8 Jegs SSR wheels.
Also working on the final install of a 28x19 Be Cool radiator and aluminum shroud with 11" & 12" slim SPALs. Tight fit and could only fit slims but should be an improvement.
Cobra diff with the CF discs is back in the car and no longer peg-legging. Was also able to shim the clutches tighter and we'll see how well it holds up at the track.
Got a pair of MT 235 DRs on black 15x8 JEGs SSR star wheels.
Found a vintage MOMO 4-spoke wood steering wheel that blends in nicely with the interior. Need to find a blank horn button.
Got tired of fighting with the stock hood latch so replaced it with a pair of Quik Latch push button hood "pins".
Been doing some low-boost testing to dial in the boost controller. WOW! It hauls!
Gonna have to pull the rails and injectors and replace all the o-rings. #5 top o-ring broke and sprayed A LOT of E70 in the engine bay. Don't know how the car managed to not burn to the ground. More details in another post in Forced Induction.
Man, sometimes this hotrodding can be so frustrating. Started hearing a rattle while the engine was running and immediately thought the worse. Wasn't able to get the car on the lift but the noise sounded like it was coming from the exhaust dump. Couple days ago I got on it and it sounded like the engine was coming apart, but reverted to the light rattle just cruising. Finally got it on the lift and discovered that the Pypes SS Turbo Pro muffler seems to have come apart internally. Brand new and still shiny and going to the curb as trash. Pypes voids the warranty if the product has been cut or welded and I have a v-band on the inlet, a SS hanger and a turndown. Even if they would warrantee it, I would have to get a box, pay shipping, a 20% restocking fee, subject to their approval. Doesn't matter as I could only get a replacement and they have nothing I could use as I plan to redo the exhaust as I intended in the first place, but the injury prevented that. In all, about $150 down the drain.
Also have a squeal in the front of the engine on startup, and less so when the engine is running. Noise is not there if the belt is removed. Tried belt conditioner and different belt tension. I've narrowed it down to the WP (new), alt (used) since I replaced the idler on the alt bracket and doesn't seem to be coming from the idler on the tensioner. I'll address those when I take things off the front of the engine to swap out the turbo. I have a next gen 7875 with the 1.25 exh housing and having trouble controlling overshoot on the initial hit. Viren says turbo is too small for a modded 370 and came up with a replacement that should fit without having to redo the hot or cold side piping. Not gonna bother measuring the backpressre. The 7875 exh wheel is 83/75 and the one he recommended is 96/88. SOLD! T6 is not an option for my setup.
So, if anyone is looking for a next gen 7875 with the 1.25 exh housing, PM me. Brand new with maybe 60 miles and 6 or 7 short 2nd gear pulls on it. I can throw in a 90* elbow and a decent air filter as I won't be able to use those. Look at the pics in post #59. I intend to post it in the classifieds when I pull it off but figure I'd give someone a shot at it now. Again, PM me as I 'm not going to discuss here.
Also have a squeal in the front of the engine on startup, and less so when the engine is running. Noise is not there if the belt is removed. Tried belt conditioner and different belt tension. I've narrowed it down to the WP (new), alt (used) since I replaced the idler on the alt bracket and doesn't seem to be coming from the idler on the tensioner.
I have the same thing on startup and then completely quiet for about five minutes and then out of nowhere, squeals like a stuck pig for another five minutes, getting quieter as time goes by and then pretty quiet except for occasional light sequel. Completely repeatable. Not belt tension for sure in mine. I think it's the water pump as well. I ran mostly water for a while, maybe it didn't like that.
Interesting point about the WP needing a lubricant. I use distilled water with about 10% antifreeze and a bottle of Water Wetter. It's a habit because the track hates cleaning up antifreeze. You think changing the coolant mix might help or is it already too far gone?
Prestone makes a product that's called something close to "water pump lubricant" --- or at least they used to. From your post above --- you're not completely certain it's the pump yet, are you? Probably no way that anyone can do anything other than speculate as to 1) whether it's the pump, or 2) if you're too late (if it is). But, couldn't hurt to try the Prestone stuff if they still make/market it. When I ran SCCA, I'd use distilled water with one bottle of the Prestone stuff. Never had a pump problem. But that's a 35 year old single data point. And it was Toyota -- that seemed impervious to being hurt in battle. 62 races over 8-9 years -- not one DNF.
Was it a new Delco part scottie? The cheap WP's I've used all seem to make a similar noise. FWIW i never had an issues after years and years of this noise. Though I didn't put a ton of street miles on them.
The WP is a GMB, probably not the equal of a Delco product but they are US-based and I wouldn't consider it China junk. Of course, I could be wrong. When I do the turbo swap I'll have the alternator checked just to be sure before I buy a WP.
From what I've read, modern a WP bearing is sealed and self lubricating. The common issue with them squealing is from coolant leaking pass the seal.
07-14-2021, 09:38 PM
But seriously -- now's the time to do it. All of it.
