Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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1927 Model-T Twin Turbo

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Old 12-19-2020, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Trying to decide if i'm goign to paint the manifolds and engine in this new BBQ paint copper. The black has always held up in the past. This looks more brown to me, but looked ok on the more reflective surface of the can. Also not sure the paint will stick to polished manifolds. Tempted to just do the standard black and leave the manifolds alone. Opinions on the copper/bronze color?



whoa, I'm definitely trying this out. Not a fan of the color though. I'm going to see if I can find a silver or something that matches the LS7 headers. I like the black.
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Old 12-19-2020, 08:38 AM
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I kind of like the color, especially for that car. Has a classis or old timey theme to it. Try it out and you can always respray it if you decide to change it up.
Old 12-19-2020, 08:35 PM
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Keep your eyes open for some used tubular control arms for that Mustang II front end. Lose some weight, gain some caster (stability), heim ends instead of bushings (stability), increase travel and gain room (no more strut rods). If you need even more travel look at AJE's hat mod kit. Switches you to a taller coilover type shock and increases travel even more. At the ET this should run, you probably will not need much travel. maybe even limiters.
Old 12-21-2020, 05:41 PM
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That brown copper, I'm not so far a fan.

Are you sure about running 20" front tires got a pic of them on a build you are emulating?

Love the build.
Old 12-21-2020, 10:19 PM
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This is so fantastic.

Point your "downpipes" upwards to keep the front end down...
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Old 12-23-2020, 06:33 PM
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Timing parts finally came. Engine is almost ready to drop in. waiting on my rockers to see if the factory valve covers will fit. Prob paint the VC black. Not really a fan of the brown, was hoping it would grow on me.



I'll say the Speedmaster electric water pump had a few flaws. The alum spacers were not especially flat. So I had to flat sand them. Also one of the spacers hit the head and needed "clearanced" . Its nice you can re-clock it. My Rad setup has the inlet and out let on different sides of the Rad.


Last edited by Forcefed86; 12-24-2020 at 12:07 AM.
Old 12-24-2020, 12:00 AM
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Motors in... I'm not really liking the old man brown color. Think I'll end up going black on the turbo and the valley cover.




Old 12-24-2020, 08:00 AM
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agreed.
Old 12-25-2020, 09:42 PM
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2 dropped spindles, if you have the ground clearance. See them regularly on Facebook and craigslist. The Heidts ones are pretty nice pieces. Saw a pair for $150 about 2 weeks ago.
Old 12-27-2020, 11:03 AM
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Was a little worried I wouldn't fit in the cab without a ton of work. Those cheap plastic seats take up a TON of space. Made some new mounts and tossed in my Kirky and its not to bad! Much lower seating position and I have plenty of leg room now.





Originally Posted by Bad Apache
2 dropped spindles, if you have the ground clearance. See them regularly on Facebook and craigslist. The Heidts ones are pretty nice pieces. Saw a pair for $150 about 2 weeks ago.
I think I'll have the clearance. It will defiantly have some sort of drop spindles on it eventually. Friend donated a pair of tubular A-arms as well, pretty excited about those! I'll get it mobile first, then tackle the lowering and suspension.
Old 12-28-2020, 09:59 PM
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Looks like a cool project. Curious what the wheelbase is on this? What's the rear suspension/axle setup? Nevermind, missed it in the 1st post. LOL

BTW, did you buy the scale pucks or build them from the other member?
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Old 12-29-2020, 07:43 AM
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I made the scale for him using an Arduino and one of these load cells.
it's accurate to less than 5lbs with a 2000lb load.


https://www.robotshop.com/en/1000kg-...RoC7hEQAvD_BwE


here is how I built it.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fabrication/1811457-diy-digital-scale-2200-lb-capacity.html



Last edited by aknovaman; 12-29-2020 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 12-29-2020, 08:54 AM
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I will say for lack of a better term the "titty" style pucks aren't my favorite. You basically have to put the load of the entire car on that one little point. So if you'd not making a plate/housing for it, this style seems a little more practical. Also always feel like I'm going to leave a dimple in the stamped steel using the puck style. (which hasn't happened yet) but its also harder to balance the car on that tiny point as well if your going for FWD/AFT weights w/ 2 scales


Last edited by Forcefed86; 12-29-2020 at 09:34 AM.
Old 12-29-2020, 09:33 AM
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I have used the S type load cells too. easy to bolt to larger surfaces and just as accurate. they work well to add eyelets for hanging a load.
Old 12-29-2020, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by aknovaman
I made the scale for him using an Arduino and one of these load cells.
it's accurate to less than 5lbs with a 2000lb load.


https://www.robotshop.com/en/1000kg-...RoC7hEQAvD_BwE


here is how I built it.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...-capacity.html
Thank you for the link and info. I vaguely remember reading that probably back then, just forgot about it.
Old 12-31-2020, 02:45 PM
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Car is looking badass. I think for the engine block, it gets tricky with a yellow car (my 67 is yellow too). Kinda want a neat color but not one that pops too much like red. How about darker blue, green, or gold?
Old 01-04-2021, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Car is looking badass. I think for the engine block, it gets tricky with a yellow car (my 67 is yellow too). Kinda want a neat color but not one that pops too much like red. How about darker blue, green, or gold?
​​​​​​​Thanks! Won't be sticking with the yellow either. I'd like to get it together and running first though. Then I'll likely drop it off for a quick and dirty 1 day body and paint procedure at a buds.

Few small things out of the way this weekend.

Pass side lower alternator mount is done. Went with AEI CNC kit. Buddy had a new chrome CS130 140A 1 wire and sold it to me cheap. Also happened to have the correct length belt laying around. It was a 6 rib, so I cut 2 ribs off. Hope the under driven pulley has enough RPM to kick the alt on. Crank pulley was also given to me. Believe its one of these cheapie amazon SFI pulleys. 25% UD I'd guess.

Amazon Amazon






Look like this form the bottom.


Also had a wild idea for air filters that I'm not sure about. Ordered some of the cheap china carb velocity stacks. I'm aware these flow horribly, but I'd just be leaving them on for cruising on the street. I like how they look by themselves... a little big maybe, but look period correct I think.

Headlights on the Model T's were huge! I ordered a set of actual Model T headlights and returned them... they were massive! Also once you add the actual head lights I bought on the front of the car, it looks overcrowded and a little silly with 4 "headlights". Though moving the headlights inboard did look better I think. IDK, what do you all think? Keep the funky filters? Or back to the drawing board?













Old 01-04-2021, 09:35 AM
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Keep the filters and run these down low as your headlights. these are not fully enclosed but they do make them

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80W-2-5-Inc...4AAOSwJWhfskBu
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Old 01-04-2021, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by aknovaman
Keep the filters and run these down low as your headlights. these are not fully enclosed but they do make them

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80W-2-5-Inc...4AAOSwJWhfskBu
I like that idea! Do you know of any small housings I could put them in? Those would fit great where the original little fog lamps were. Guessing those likely put out more light than the 4.5" china motorcycle lights I have too.

These look like they are an enclosed "fog light" version that require a standard H11 head light bulb. Think this would put out enough light? Or better off playing with the 80-100w+ LED bulbs?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Universa...b/164124659554


Last edited by Forcefed86; 01-04-2021 at 09:58 AM.
Old 01-04-2021, 01:00 PM
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Hehe not a fan of those filters.

I'd leave the block that color if you are going to repaint the T.
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