When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I finally have the seat mounts welded in and the dash mocked up! Everything is centered well thank goodness. I have to fab up and weld a few brackets for the dash.
Do you all mock up all electrical components and drill holes before installing sound deadening? Also, is Lizard Skin more advantageous than using KillMat and foam in your experience?
Do you all mock up all electrical components and drill holes before installing sound deadening? Also, is Lizard Skin more advantageous than using KillMat and foam in your experience?
It is much cleaner to cut or punch through sound dampening material than to drill through it. I would definitely have my holes drilled before install.
Thank you! I will feel better once you tune it and I can hear it start. I have a couple questions, do you have experience with the Dakota Digital HDX gauges? I'm torn between using those or the Holley 6.8 pro dash. Also, where did you get your A2W tank reservoir that's mounted to your firewall? I'm thinking about doing something similar or running a tank in the trunk. Not sure how feasible it will be doing that as a daily driver. I would like to run the Davies Craig pump.
Thank you! I will feel better once you tune it and I can hear it start. I have a couple questions, do you have experience with the Dakota Digital HDX gauges? I'm torn between using those or the Holley 6.8 pro dash. Also, where did you get your A2W tank reservoir that's mounted to your firewall? I'm thinking about doing something similar or running a tank in the trunk. Not sure how feasible it will be doing that as a daily driver. I would like to run the Davies Craig pump.
I have many customers that use the Dakota Digital gauges with Holley EFI, by adding the Dakota Digital Holley BIM module. The dash is also a good option and offers a lot of customization options, For me the 6.86" dash is too small to read...
The tank on my firewall is a generic 1 quart tank that I got at Summit. The inlet and outlet bungs were welded as needed.
I have many customers that use the Dakota Digital gauges with Holley EFI, by adding the Dakota Digital Holley BIM module. The dash is also a good option and offers a lot of customization options, For me the 6.86" dash is too small to read...
The tank on my firewall is a generic 1 quart tank that I got at Summit. The inlet and outlet bungs were welded as needed.
Email me when you are ready for that tune.
Andrew
Thank you. I will look for that tank. I'm basically going to copy your plumbing and stuff for the most part if you don't mind. Yes, I will be sure to do that.
I finally have the car in high build epoxy primer. I'm am about to start on the wiring with the battery being in the trunk. I was don't want to have my have 1 million and 1 items under the dash. So let me know if my plan makes sense.
1) Have Terminator X Max under passenger seat/ I would prefer the trunk if possible
2) Put AAW Highway 22 under in the trunk
3) Should I run 1/0 gauge wire right through the firewall to starter or use Painless bulkhead pass through
Some key things: I will be using the Vaporworx PWM controller. I also have the Tick Performance Low Profile Air to Water Intercooler. Any suggestions will be much appreciated. I'm trying to have this thing done so Andrew ProjectGatTagO can tune this thing. Car in High Build Epoxy Primer. Made a crossover for the base of the intercooler. -8AN Added a transmission pan with a drain. Early model 4L80E pan with a drain. I will like to run all the lines right under my shifter on top of the trans tunnel. Here is the set up i made. It's now painted black.
I would mount the Terminator X max in the glovebox area for easy access. You will want to have access to the ECU for viewing the LEDs that are on it and also for any wiring modifications or troubleshooting. I had a bracket designed that replaces the glove box that holds my Dominator and Hardwire PDM 28.
I don't know if it will work for you, but I can have another one made and you can adapt it for your needs.
Since the battery is in the trunk, I would use 00 gauge welding cable for both positive and grounds. I would run the positive wire through the holes in the rear bulkhead with a grommet and to a bulkhead pass that is somewhere at the intersection of the firewall, kick plate and the transmission tunnel. Position it in such a way that you can easily access it from under the car. https://www.waytekwire.com/product/c...eeder-stud-red
The ground cable (also 00 gauge welding cable) can go through the trunk floor and run inside the passenger side frame rail and it should go directly to the engine block. I would then add a short 00 welding cable ground from the engine block to the frame and another one to the body. This will ensure that you have an excellent ground network without any redundant paths.
I would mount the Terminator X max in the glovebox area for easy access. You will want to have access to the ECU for viewing the LEDs that are on it and also for any wiring modifications or troubleshooting. I had a bracket designed that replaces the glove box that holds my Dominator and Hardwire PDM 28.
I don't know if it will work for you, but I can have another one made and you can adapt it for your needs.
Since the battery is in the trunk, I would use 00 gauge welding cable for both positive and grounds. I would run the positive wire through the holes in the rear bulkhead with a grommet and to a bulkhead pass that is somewhere at the intersection of the firewall, kick plate and the transmission tunnel. Position it in such a way that you can easily access it from under the car. https://www.waytekwire.com/product/c...eeder-stud-red
The ground cable (also 00 gauge welding cable) can go through the trunk floor and run inside the passenger side frame rail and it should go directly to the engine block. I would then add a short 00 welding cable ground from the engine block to the frame and another one to the body. This will ensure that you have an excellent ground network without any redundant paths.
Andrew
Andrew,
I appreciate you taking the time to help me as always. I will just mount the Terminator X Max in my glove box and cut the back of it out. My car is a super Frankenstein and has an aftermarket Chevelle dash. So I don't mind cutting on it at all.
I will order up the 20ft each of the 2/0(00AWG) welding cable. I guess I can sell the 1/0 or use it for my Subwoofer when the time comes. I already have the Painless Wiring versions of those bulkheads. I have this to use for grounding straps.
I borrowed a few pictures of the interweb of locations to put the bulkhead and wiring. Let me know if this will work. I was thinking about.placing the bulkhead up and over more. That way it won't get kicked. I have a bunch of these grommets to run the Terminator X Max Wires through.
Andrew,
I appreciate you taking the time to help me as always. I will just mount the Terminator X Max in my glove box and cut the back of it out. My car is a super Frankenstein and has an aftermarket Chevelle dash. So I don't mind cutting on it at all.
I will order up the 20ft each of the 2/0(00AWG) welding cable. I guess I can sell the 1/0 or use it for my Subwoofer when the time comes. I already have the Painless Wiring versions of those bulkheads. I have this to use for grounding straps.
I borrowed a few pictures of the interweb of locations to put the bulkhead and wiring. Let me know if this will work. I was thinking about.placing the bulkhead up and over more. That way it won't get kicked. I have a bunch of these grommets to run the Terminator X Max Wires through.
For the positive pass through, you want it fairly close to the starter. Because that's where it will connect.
I wouldn't put the main harness down low. You're asking for water intrusion. I have a 2" hole in the firewall, behind the engine.