Thanks man. I'm learning a lot about how transmissions work!

I'm at a stand still with the transmission at the moment waiting for the front mainshaft bearing and rear countershaft bearing, so I started turning my attention to the engine again. After the first spring compressor I bought on Amazon turned out to be a scam, I ordered a second one from a different vendor which showed up this time. My first reaction was, "Wow this is bad it's not even close to lining up!" It took me a few minutes, but then I realized that they installed the bolt going the wrong direction. After I got that swapped around it did a great job with my PAC dual springs.







Another project I was working on was finalizing the jig in order to drill my head for the LSA dowel pin. I didn't like the idea of breaking off the dowel pin like most do, so I opted to figure out a way to drill it myself. Several months ago for a Lingenfelter jig, but they are unavailable. Someone responded to my ad on an LSA Facebook group and said he could build a jig. His was based on a template off of a gasket, so it needed some fine tuning, but once I got it centered, it fit perfectly. I had an old truck LS head that I used to get the centering just right, then did the final drill on my 821's. Came out perfectly.

Took several attempts to get it centered.



Once I was happy, I fully welded them together.



Here's the final fitment with the truck head.





Then onto my 821's.





Much better!!





My bearing showed up last night from Tick, so I'm hoping to get the transmission back together by the weekend to start mocking up for my driveshaft.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

What balancer are you doing to run, is it recommended you pin it?

Is the plan whatever you can make on pump gas?

 

Hey John, I'm going to be running the stock CTS-V balancer and the accessories. I'm on the fence about pinning the crank, but not really sure why. I'm sure that I'll end up doing it and it will benefit the engine, but for some reason I just don't like the idea.

As for the target numbers, I really don't have any in mind I've just always wanted a turbo/supercharged car. I'm sure that with my setup I'll be in the 600 whp range, so I'm trying to build my drivetrain accordingly. I need to get some good tires before I hit the road too. I have stock tubs so I'm limited to around a 275 tire.

 

It is a good idea to pin the crank. The stock LSA cranks have a key way for a reason. It probably takes 50-60HP to spin that blower at top speed and pinning the crank will make sure that the balancer does not slip.

Andrew

 

LSA have a stock key way? Did not know that.

 

Does the LS9 also have the above-mentioned keyway?

 

You can see the slot in the balancer.

I would assume so.

 

Looks like I'll be adding a crank pinning kit to my list.

 

Might as well.

 

Ryeguy2006a,

How did you mount the oil pump? I cringe when I see people mount one, new or OEM, as I seen some people not realize there is a procedure for doing this correctly. I am betting you did it right, but it would suck if you didn’t .

 

Hi Jimbo, I'll be shimming the pump before final install. I need to take the pan back off to install the baffle. Thanks for checking in though!

I've been slowly making progress with this transmission rebuild. I've had a few hang up's that I'll get into into later. I've also had a few parts that I bought a while ago slowly trickle in. Other than a driveshaft and a few other small parts I'm pretty sure that I have everything I need to get this motor back in the car.

Unlike with my LS1 accessories, there wasn't an easy OEM hose that I could find to use with the CTSV power steering pump. I found a fitting from TurnOne that would optimize the pressure and flow for the CTSV pump to my JGC steering box as well as convert over to -6AN lines. I then got Russel fittings and hose to make my own line.





What's nice is that they extended the fitting so that it sits outside of the pulley. That way you can easily tighten it.





Also got a bunch of fittings, hardware, brackets and some wiring from ICT. Low mount Corvette spaced alternator bracket to finish my swap.



LS3 starter since the TR6060 requires a small snout starter. Low mileage takeoff that I found on eBay from a dismantler.



The CWA50 pump that I bought from a 4.4 BMW had one of those quick connect fittings on it for the inlet, and I couldn't find any good info out there on it. I took a chance on a fitting I found on RockAuto and it was an exact fit. It is a heater hose from a VW.





I also bought a bunch of misc. parts from RockAuto when I made the order.



Bearings from Tick along with their Speed Bleeder. Also the AFCO hose in the picture with the TurnOne fitting is my clutch line.



I had a leak in my rear pinion, so I decided that since I was upgrading the whole drivetrain, I might as well swap out the stock 1310 12 bolt yoke for a forged 1350 unit from Inland Empire. I needed to get a new 31 spline slip yoke for the Magnum, so I opted for the Sonnax forged 1350 unit. Both are really nice pieces and will be needed to measure for a driveshaft when the time comes.



And last up for the parts update. I found a guy selling all of these parts, super low mileage BTR push rods, 100mm DSX idler (gives better belt wrap) and a few various belts. I got all of these parts for less than a new set of brand new pushrods. I still need to measure for length, but given that everything I'm using is stock, I'm confident that they will be 7.400 length.





To be continued...

 

Once I received the #11 bearing from Tick, I was able to get it pressed on and started the reassembly process. It went pretty smoothly during the install, until I got to the part where I needed to press back on 5th and 6th gears.

Here's where I started back with my assembly. I made sure to inspect and carefully reinstall all of the syncros into the blocker ring assembly. It is also important to lubricate the parts with trans fluid as you install. Don't forget about the bearings too.





Moving on and almost ready to test fit the main case. Up to this point everything slid together and retained with large clips. Next up was to re-install the main bearing, 6th and 5th gear. It's also worth noting that I did need to disassemble part of it at this point because the shift rail for 3/4 needed to be installed still.



Here is what I came up with to install the bearing and gears. I found it online somewhere and it worked well for the first bearing, but I later found out that because the assembly was not 100% square, it was causing me to strip threads on the rod that I bought. I think also in part, it was the composition of the rod that I bought. I didn't realize it at the time, but the rod was a low strength carbon steel rod. I should have opted for a high strength 10.9 or 12.9 unit from McMaster Carr, or others. And for anyone that may be attempting this, the thread size for the T56 Magnum shaft (as well as most Tremec transmissions including standard T56) is M12 x 1.75.



After struggling for several days, I was able to get the 6th gear pressed on so that I could get the main case bolted together. I also made sure to put liquid Teflon around the guide pins, shift detents, and reverse light.







After a bunch of cussing and thoughts about it, I decided to try another way. I removed the 2" cap that I had drilled and in its place I used a 1/2" steel plate that I had with a small hole in it. I also put the pipe piece I had directly on the gear and against the flat steel. This gave me a much straighter pull and it almost effortlessly allowed me to press the gear on. I regret not taking a step back to re-evaluate how I was doing it. Would have saved a lot of aggravation.



Once that gear was back in it's home, the rest of the parts slid right into place.



Here is the final trans back together. I'd be lying if I didn't row through the gears for at least 10 minutes. I still need to get or make a plate for the mid-shifter location, but otherwise it's ready for install. Those 2x4 pieces that I have are for to space the bellhousing off the floor/workbench so that the input shaft doesn't have pressure on it.





I also received my LS3 valley cover which will make for a much cleaner PCV install. I found a good deal on a new crate motor take off on eBay that came with bolts and a new gasket.



Next up is to get everything on the motor bolted together so that I can get the longblock ready for install. I'm planning on installing the motor/trans bolted together as one unit and hopefully only one time. Since I'm really replacing an LS motor for an LS motor and Tremec transmissions that have very similar external dimensions, I'm hoping for no surprises. The biggest question mark for me is going to be the shifter location. If my measurements are correct, it should only be 1.5" farther ahead than my old Fbody T56.

I'm getting so excited to get the motor back together and hear it run.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

<---still reading along.

 

Home stretch! Looking good!

 

Awesome progress, man!

Andrew

 

Looking good. You got a lot done. Are you running hollow stem intake valves? I thought I seen you mentioned they were low mileage LS3 heads. What are you using for finding all these deals on auto parts ?????? You got some smoking deals. LOL

 

I'm running the hollow ls3 valves that came in tht heads.

As for the deals... I'll never tell haha

It's called a penny pincher build for a reason!

 

Thanks Luke!

Doesn't visually look like I've gotten much accomplished, but the short block has been completely buttoned up. I only had the timing and rear covers on to keep dust and dirt out.

I started out back and got the rear cover aligned with the pan and torqued down. Followed that up with the correct "big bearing" to properly match the TR6060 input shaft.



Next up was the front cover. I still needed to align the oil pump before I could get it final torqued. I used the .002 shims and it centered up very nicely. I oiled everything up with assembly lube, torqued and then installed the timing cover loosely.





Now I'm really starting to get excited about this project. I'm on the downhill side and starting to bolt on new (or new to me) parts. I grabbed my stock LSA balancer and installed it on the crank. I made sure to lubricate the hub so that it didn't tear the new seal. I have a crank pinning kit on the way and once that is here I'll add a few pins to make sure that the crank doesn't spin.



I'm sure there are other ways to accomplish this, but I used the transmission to help align my oil pan. I cleaned up the sealing surface and put a dab of silicone on the 4 corners where the front and rear covers meet the oil pan gasket. I snugged the oil pan to transmission and then torqued the pan.



While the transmission was attached, I test fit my starter. I had to get another starter because the TR6060 uses the smaller size.



Reinstalled my Holley mounts and now it's ready for the heads and valvetrain.





My 18MO shop buddy helped me put all of the bellhousing bolts where he felt they needed to be haha. Love having him help me in the garage.



Then moved onto the heads. I got all of the valve springs installed in the heads and they are ready to go. I put assembly lube on any moving part and now they are ready to install.



Once the heads are on I'll check my push rod length and button up the top end.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

Made some more progress on my engine last week. I installed the LS7 lifters that have been soaking in new oil along with some trays.



Then I cleaned up the deck and head mating surfaces and installed a new LS9 head gasket.





Finished the head install with a set of ARP bolts torqued to their specs.





It was getting late when I was in the garage and got carried away test fitting the engine accessories. I started by test fitting the water pump, and before I knew it the whole accessories were mocked up.



I test fit a new LS1 Fbody belt that I had kept in the event that it would work with my new accessories, but it's way too short. The routing looks good, but I do need to find a smaller idler pulley. This one was a random one that I had just to mock up.



Then I got to looking at the low mount with truck alternator. It's going to be really close, and the positive stud will be contacting the frame. So I'm either going to need to reclock it or try a new alternator.







I finally tracked down the last part that I needed for my Hybrid TR6060-Magnum project. I needed a mid-shift plate to cover up where the stock TR6060 shifter was. I found one listed on eBay along with a shifter and messaged the guy. He sold me the plate by itself, Win. I'll get some new bolts, but here it is installed hand tight to keep out dust/dirt.



I also bought a few other parts. One is a trap door for the trunk so that I can swap out fuel pumps much easier. I like how this trap door is very slim and won't intrude into the truck far.



I also finally found a fitting that works for the fluid pump on the TR6060. It is Dorman Part# 800-732, with a 9/16-18 thread with O-ring on the transmission side and a 5/8-18 inverted flare fitting for the line. I opted to go with a conventional flare nut over an AN fitting because I think it will do a better job of cooling, and a little easier on the wallet.





I also got a 5' section of 3/8" NiCopp line with fittings and a Holley CAN splitter.



Thanks,
Ryan

 

Looks great. How long before you’re ready to drop that thing in? I take it you are from Australia? For some reason, I always thought you where from the South East of the US.

Jim