Jimbo1367

On my daily cars, I run synthetic oil. When you purchase used Toyota’s, they tend to have motor noise once you get the miles 65k and higher. Synthetic oil tends to stay thinner once it gets colder

Once you get the motor broke in, can we get some holes-hot videos? LOL. I’m excited for you to run this thing lol

keep up the great work

jim

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

You got it Jim. But the problem is with these 255 500 treadwear old tires my hole-shot will be lame. Tire smoke on the other hand will be abundant.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Any update on the boost issue?

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Ok, time for an update! I've mostly been driving the car and tweaking my tunes to get the car to perform how I want it. I'm no professional by any stretch of the imagination, but I've got the car running pretty good. One little detail was just not right for me however. The engine wasn't building boost the way that I was expecting and to be honest, I was a little disappointed. It didn't want to build any boost over 100 kpa (0 psi, WOT, or atmosphere) in gears 1, 2, or 3. It would start to build about 4-5 psi in 4th gear, and I would see full boost 11-12 psi (180ish KPA) in 5th and 6th. While glad to see the boost numbers, the upper gears aren't ideal for building the boost on the street. After spending hours reading on the internet and the owner of Boost District, Roshan and I did a video chat. Can't say enough good things about that customer service, especially since I wasn't even a customer of his! Would direct anyone to his site if you are thinking of an LSA supercharger, or parts for one.

During the chat he had me do a few diagnostic checks and confirmed that everything was functioning correctly. I was leaning toward it, but he was convinced that it was a weak bypass valve that was causing the issue. Basically anytime the vacuum drops below about 70kpa, the motor should be building boost. That generally comes on right off of idle around 1200-1500 rpm.

I bought a new Bypass valve and compared it with the old one. While the old one looked to be in good shape, the spring tension on the new was noticeably more stiff and did hold the vacuum better. I got it installed Saturday afternoon and took it around the block for a test drive. Now, with the old bypass the thought went through my mind, "What is all the fuss over these superchargers?". After the new fully functioning bypass installed I totally understand what the fuss is all about. It felt like a completely different car and was blowing the tires on command. I was starting to build boost right off of idle, and would quickly ramp up to 200 kpa (14psi) in any gear now. What a simple fix and what a night and day difference! I only got a chance to do a quick drive, but what a difference that made. I'm not 110% happy with this swap, and is fully meeting my expectations of what the LSA supercharger would do. Time to change my pants and get more seat time, haha.

Earlier in the week I was browsing the Holley FB posts and came across a guy selling a Terminator X Max ECU and wideband sensor for not much more than a new stock X ECU. Both were new and never installed because he immediately upgraded to Dominator. I sent him a message and he came down on his price even more, so I bought it. When I first bought my Terminator X, I didn't go with the X Max because I had no plans to go DBW or Auto trans, but what I didn't realize until afterwards that you can easily use the speed sensor input for the auto trans for the T56. The trouble with the VSS signal with the T56 is that Holley won't read a VR sine wave signal, but would need a square wave signal to read properly. But the X Max can read that signal. What it is important for me is now I can easily use an output to control my Reverse Lockout. I can also now upgrade to use the DBW throttlebody in the future. I have the pedal and TB, just need the harness to complete.



Here is a J4 connector and pins so that I can give Holley the VSS signal from my trans. I also found out that pin B17 is an input for the trans temperature and because my TR6060 hybrid trans has a temp sensor on it, I'm going to tap into it and see if it will read properly.



When I build my glove box panel, it was just big enough for the base X ECU, but the X Max is a little over 2" longer so I had to modify my panel. It's not pretty, but it is hidden. Had to drill some holes to access the upper mounting holes for the ECU.





All tucked away and reinstalled. It took a little bit of playing around, but I got the settings right to have the ECU read speed and the reverse lockout functions just like stock. Love that!!



I also ordered a set of 3" mandrel bent tailpipes for 67-69 Camaro hoping that they would be able less work to bolt in. Wrong, they didn't even come close with my mufflers. Now I need to decide if I want to get new mufflers and then make it all work, or add these tailpipes to what I have now. Flowmaster super 60's. My car sounds amazing, but is just too loud. I need to quiet it way down. Any muffler suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Leaning towards Hooker Aeroflow.





Lastly for this update, I noticed after my drive Saturday that my shifter is now leaking... It's a Hurst Blackjack shifter and I love the feel of how it shifts and is very precise. I'm going to call them to see what can be done to fix this leak. I think it's coming up the seal and into the top cup. It's on top of the shifter plate, so I'm confident it's not the shifter base seal. The top plate comes off with 4 allen keys, so I'm going to pull that off and see if I can possibly clean it up and seal with silicone or what Holley tech has to say.





Hopefully I can get my mufflers quieted down, seats bolted back in and can take the family out for a cruise. I have about 30 more miles before I change out the break in oil and cut open the oil filter. The motor feels really tight, but I want to cut the filter just to know what's going on inside the motor.

Cheers,
Ryan

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Haha, I was typing up my update when you posted. See above, but yes it's fixed!

G Atsma

Good to hear you're NOW properly boosted!
As per Richard Holdener, "More BOOOOST!" LOL

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I've had luck using Hooker full mufflers, quiets the cars down. Some of them are sstraight through design I prefer those.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Thanks guys, pretty stoked to have it running 100% boost. Still need to tweak on the AFR and fueling tables now that boost has changed when it's coming on.

John, I ended up finding this article from a Mustang magazine where they compared mufflers and the Borla ProXS was the quietest yet one of the top performers. I ordered a set of those and hopefully get get them installed this weekend.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I think I've read that one.

My experience, it's kinda obvious the bigger the muffler the quieter it is.

I have had luck with Hooker Aerochambers, have a muscle car sound but not super loud unless you use dumps.

Jimbo1367

If u get them, please make a video so we can hear it. I love a nice rumble but ..... I’m old and appreciate fairly quiet car nowadays

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I appreciate the input John. If these Borla's are too quiet, maybe I'll have to check out the Aerochambers. Good news is that the Borla and Aerochamber mufflers are the same dimensions, so I won't have to mess too much with my tailpipes if I make the switch.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

After a couple hundred miles on my STX shifter, I developed a leak as well. It turned out to be as simple as loose screws - I retightened and it sealed right up. Don't put silicon on any moving surfaces. If the issue is at a static seal then an RTV would be fine, but if it's a cup seal or something where surfaces slide, silicon may just make it worse.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I'll have an update soon for what I believe to be my fix, but thanks for the tips. No silicone on moving parts.

Jimbo1367

hopefully today meets the definition of “soon”

lol

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Haha, I have the shifter back together, but haven't had the car out to test it yet. I have my car on jack stands at the moment working on the exhaust fitment. I'm fitting up the 3" tailpipes and new Borla ProXS mufflers. It is a very tight fit and it's all coming together, but taking longer than I had hoped. I thought because I was just swapping mufflers and adding tail pipes it would be pretty straight forward. Since the Borla's have a much smaller case, I'm finding that it will help the fitment of the tailpipes if I trim the exhaust ahead of the mufflers. Should be done sometime this week.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Jim, here's my update haha. Sorry it took so long.

It took a little longer than I hoped to get an update, but I finally was able to get things complete enough to take it for a test drive last night. All I can say is WOW. When that boost comes on it just pulls so hard. Right now I think it does more of blowing the tires off, but I'm ok with that for now. I'd like to get a sticker set of 275 tires to see what happens when that power gets to the ground! I need to be careful because last night I punched it in 4th and when I got out of it I was over 100 mph! It went from 50 to 100 very quickly. I don't think I ever posted a picture of the new bypass valve. Brand new from GM.



After the test drive I doublechecked to see if my fix for the leaky shifter worked, and I'm happy to report no more leaks! I had to take apart the top shifter assembly and diagnose why it was leaking in the first place. I popped off the top cover and took apart the upper assembly that holds the fulcrum.



Here you can see that it was leaking all around that bottom plate and appears to come out on the right side.



Upon further inspection, it appears that there was some thread sealant that wasn't allowing that to sit flush against the lower plate.





So I cleaned that all off and dabbed a tiny amount of silicone around the fulcrum base when I reinstalled. I also added some thread tape to the four bolts that attach the upper and lower together. Just a little added insurance since they protrude into the trans case and are exposed to fluid.

While this was all happening I also needed to quiet down the car. While it sounded fantastic with the Flowmaster 50's, it would make my ears ring after every drive. So they had to go if I wanted anyone in my family to ride with me. After a bunch of sound clips, research and feedback from car buddies, I decided on a pair of Borla ProXS with a 14" case. They were significantly smaller than the 50's that came off of the car so I was actually able to tuck up my exhaust a little higher than before. I had to trim about 4" off of the pipes that come right before the mufflers to push them forward for a better approach to install the tail pipes. Minor modification, but necessary.



Next up was a pair of 3" Mandrel bent tail pipes from Flowmaster. While they didn't fit out of the box, I think that was completely my fault as I build my own exhaust from scratch. My mufflers are at an angle while the tail pipes are straight. So I just had to make a small cut to give the angle needed for my exhaust. My new band saw made quick work of that and gave a straight cut to just turn and weld.



The passenger side fit up really nicely and gave me plenty of room around the leaf and quarter panel. The driver side ended up being about 2" more rearward, so I ended up cutting it out of a straight section I had to match the passenger. Got it all welded up and re-installed. I still need to trim a little bit off of the end, but I'm very happy with the placement. I'm also debating on leaving it as is, or cutting it at an angle to match the quarter panel. For now I'm going to leave it straight and see how I feel about it.



Now for full transparency, the exhaust hangers are not finished, but I they are currently secured to the chassis. I am using the same rubber isolator mounts from before that are solid, but will need to be modified for the new location of the mufflers. The tail pipes may or may not be held up with mechanics wire, but I'll never tell... I have some proper hangers on order now, so once they come in I'll be able to get a final position for the tail pipes so I can get the tips just right.

Next up is to get my wiring cleaned up, the interior completely reinstalled and put some miles on her. Oh and maybe give it a bath haha.

Cheers,
Ryan

G Atsma

I was looking at your VERY DURABLE jack stand and realized how it is made from all of a single 20' stick(or (2)10') of 2 x 4, cut into (8)12" and (8)18" pieces. CLEVER!!
Nailed or screwed together??

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Thanks man, I'd say that they were cheap to make, but with the prices of 2x4's they might as well be golden wheel stands haha. They are 2x4's that are 12" x 16" long that I screwed together. I have 4 individual stands that aren't screwed together for each wheel so that I can put it at different heights. They have come in handy so many times. What's great is they keep the car at ride height which is helpful for many different things.

G Atsma

Boy, 10-4 on lumber prices! Yeah, 4 of those is now a goldmine! LOL!
Nice job!