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Gen 3 to gen 4 ls fbody wont start

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Old 02-13-2021, 03:22 PM
  #41  
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Before tearing into the reluctor check to see if the coil harnesses are right. I had a Holley harnes that was wrong bank to bank. After checking all wiring, I ended switching the plugs that barely reached. Boom fired right up. Ran just like a 180 out distributor.
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Old 02-13-2021, 09:21 PM
  #42  
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CKP used for ignition timing. CMP for injector timing. Before you pull motor, remove the crank sensor and check reluctor positioning with #1 at tdc.
Old 02-13-2021, 10:55 PM
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Is there a easy way to check alignment through the CKP hole? I thought it was way more complicated than just "OK when the reference notch comes by that's number 1 - NOW! BANG!" It's something like it reads the reference notch, counts a certain number of pulses, then uses that as #1 TDC.
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Old 02-14-2021, 09:20 AM
  #44  
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Use a meter to check voltage coming from cam sensor extension harness. Make sure it is wired properly and didnt get pinched/severed when dropping the engine back in
Old 02-14-2021, 01:26 PM
  #45  
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Cam sensor cannot cause a no start. Maybe a long crank, but not a flat out no start. If CMP goes missing the ECM will eventually figure it out and the engine will fire and run normally.
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Old 02-14-2021, 06:55 PM
  #46  
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So, today at about 930 I said screw it and started pulling the engine and trans out. I finally got it out around 1230 and immediately went to work pulling the engine back down so I could remove the cramkshaft. Finally, after a few hours of work (slow because I was looking for errors) I was able to access the crank and removed it. Looks like the machine shop screwed me. It looks like its on backwards. It was alot of work but I am happy with my findings. Thank you everyone for the help and suggestions


This picture shows 2 cranks side by side and you can see the ring is clocked wrong. The crank in my left hand is one I pulled from an ls1 that had a trashed block, the one in my right is from the ls3.
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Old 02-14-2021, 07:00 PM
  #47  
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man that sucks. at least you found root cause.
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Old 02-14-2021, 09:35 PM
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Wow! Not sure how they did that, but I am curious to know. The Goodson tool makes it so easy.
Old 02-14-2021, 09:52 PM
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Looks like it's 180* out. Good find. Never hurts to put a couple tig welds on it to secure it once it's in place correctly.
Old 02-15-2021, 08:15 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 00whitebirdws6
So, today at about 930 I said screw it and started pulling the engine and trans out. I finally got it out around 1230 and immediately went to work pulling the engine back down so I could remove the cramkshaft. Finally, after a few hours of work (slow because I was looking for errors) I was able to access the crank and removed it. Looks like the machine shop screwed me. It looks like its on backwards. It was alot of work but I am happy with my findings. Thank you everyone for the help and suggestions


This picture shows 2 cranks side by side and you can see the ring is clocked wrong. The crank in my left hand is one I pulled from an ls1 that had a trashed block, the one in my right is from the ls3.
Damn man thats too bad but at least that mystery is solved. Hopefully the machine shop will make it right on your end for that mistake.
Old 02-15-2021, 08:50 AM
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Wow heads would be rolling.
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Old 02-15-2021, 01:55 PM
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Thanks for updating this thread! Sorry that you had to go through all of that trouble though. As the others said, hopefully the machine shop will make it right.



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