Gen 3 to gen 4 ls fbody wont start
#41
On The Tree
Before tearing into the reluctor check to see if the coil harnesses are right. I had a Holley harnes that was wrong bank to bank. After checking all wiring, I ended switching the plugs that barely reached. Boom fired right up. Ran just like a 180 out distributor.
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00whitebirdws6 (02-13-2021)
#42
CKP used for ignition timing. CMP for injector timing. Before you pull motor, remove the crank sensor and check reluctor positioning with #1 at tdc.
#43
Is there a easy way to check alignment through the CKP hole? I thought it was way more complicated than just "OK when the reference notch comes by that's number 1 - NOW! BANG!" It's something like it reads the reference notch, counts a certain number of pulses, then uses that as #1 TDC.
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00whitebirdws6 (02-13-2021)
#45
Cam sensor cannot cause a no start. Maybe a long crank, but not a flat out no start. If CMP goes missing the ECM will eventually figure it out and the engine will fire and run normally.
The following 2 users liked this post by Fang:
00whitebirdws6 (02-14-2021), G Atsma (02-14-2021)
#46
So, today at about 930 I said screw it and started pulling the engine and trans out. I finally got it out around 1230 and immediately went to work pulling the engine back down so I could remove the cramkshaft. Finally, after a few hours of work (slow because I was looking for errors) I was able to access the crank and removed it. Looks like the machine shop screwed me. It looks like its on backwards. It was alot of work but I am happy with my findings. Thank you everyone for the help and suggestions
This picture shows 2 cranks side by side and you can see the ring is clocked wrong. The crank in my left hand is one I pulled from an ls1 that had a trashed block, the one in my right is from the ls3.
This picture shows 2 cranks side by side and you can see the ring is clocked wrong. The crank in my left hand is one I pulled from an ls1 that had a trashed block, the one in my right is from the ls3.
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G Atsma (02-14-2021)
The following users liked this post:
00whitebirdws6 (02-14-2021)
#49
Looks like it's 180* out. Good find. Never hurts to put a couple tig welds on it to secure it once it's in place correctly.
#50
TECH Regular
So, today at about 930 I said screw it and started pulling the engine and trans out. I finally got it out around 1230 and immediately went to work pulling the engine back down so I could remove the cramkshaft. Finally, after a few hours of work (slow because I was looking for errors) I was able to access the crank and removed it. Looks like the machine shop screwed me. It looks like its on backwards. It was alot of work but I am happy with my findings. Thank you everyone for the help and suggestions
This picture shows 2 cranks side by side and you can see the ring is clocked wrong. The crank in my left hand is one I pulled from an ls1 that had a trashed block, the one in my right is from the ls3.
This picture shows 2 cranks side by side and you can see the ring is clocked wrong. The crank in my left hand is one I pulled from an ls1 that had a trashed block, the one in my right is from the ls3.
The following users liked this post:
G Atsma (02-15-2021)