SOLID plan! That is gonna one flexible and versatile ride! Besides being WAY cool! LOL

 

Small window cab is my favorite for sure. Looks like you've got a very solid start and plan. I love the craftsmanship on the engine mounts. Mig like Tig. Subscribed

 

Thank you. I’m looking into power rack and pinion steering conversion now and possibly a set single adjustable rear coil overs like QA1, Aldan Viking or Afco. Sway bars are on the way. Then rear mount fuel tank.

 

And plumbing the brakes and fuel system

 

Do yourself a favor and do NiCu tubing. I prefer AN flares and fittings.

 

I'm so jealous!!

 

I’m glad I’m not the only one lol. When I was in high school, grad 86, I was into 66 Chevelle SS and 67-73 cameos, I didn’t really care for this style truck. While I style love my Chevelle and Camaros, I absolutely love this style of trucks now. I have no idea what I was thinking back then.

I love where this is going

 

yes, I’ve noticed there are copper nickel alloy brake lines in bulk and I’ve read positive things about it being easier to work with. Some bulk offshore brake line made of mild steel is a bit small and not easy to hold in place while making flairs. I have a real nice Hazet German made flairing tool that makes the nicest flairs easily.

 

[QUOTE=Jimbo1367;20329301]I’m glad I’m not the only one lol. When I was in high school, grad 86, I was into 66 Chevelle SS and 67-73 cameos, I didn’t really care for this style truck. While I style love my Chevelle and Camaros, I absolutely love this style of trucks now. I have no idea what I was thinking back then.

I love where this is going[/QUOTE thank you, I really like this body style too. Years ago I had a ‘65 short step side with a 6 cyl and a 3 on the tree, always regretted getting rid of that truck. It had busted wood planks in the bed. By now it would have been LS swapped...lol

 

My dad was in to older trucks, at the time I was into foxbody mustangs, now I wish I would of kept his 49, it would be ls swapped! Damn it, some many missed opportunities in life!!

 

Love what you're doing!! I've got a 71 long bed that was my grandfathers, truck I drove through high school and all. I'm working on a cab currently fixing the corners and rockers. Have good OE metal everywhere else, I'm not doing a show truck, but a solid cruiser/driver I'm not afraid to hammer on. After I sold my house in NOV I made a big order to No Limit Engineering for their front and rear set up, new cross member, A-arms, coil overs, sway bar, rack and pinion, new truck arms, rear coil overs, etc. I'm hoping to be in a new house in the next month or so and my frame is going to the blaster so I can coat it and get everything mocked up. I'd also say go the ni-cop route, it's soooo easy to work with and won't ever rot out. Unless you want the struggle of SS. Shop around for it, my NAPA sells it for $43 a roll but my other jobber place gets it to me for $28 a roll. Definitely following along on this build.

 

Can the Ni-Cop lines be had in 3/8 Inch and 1/2 Inch?

 

I've seen it up to 3/8, but not sure it's available in 1/2.

I've used the Nicop line before and it is super easy to use, but the remainder of a roll I had hanging on my garage door track turned green...

 

1/2 is available.

 

Ok. thanks. For some reason I figured it wouldn't be available.

 

Nice, please post some pics of that going together or you can PM them if you don’t want to make a thread, I always up for other members builds like mine. Yes to rack and pinion. If you decide to paint your frame....don’t , just find a powder coater with a large oven, say 16’ or bigger because the cost of sand blasting your frame, buying all the pricey catalyzing paints, primers, finding a good place to do it and putting in all the hrs to do it and still won be as good as powder coat, just not worth it. It was $800 even to get my frame and engine cross member done and everybody wanted $500 min just to strip it. I think you get my point. Car trailer needed too.

 

Absolutely I'll start another build thread! I've got a local place that can blast and coat and it's about the same price as you said. I go back and forth on coating, at least right off the bat because I want everything fitted and brackets welded, etc before I powder. I'd rather not have to grind it off to add some stupid little bracket I forgot about after the fact. All the no limit stuff is raw also, so it'll be coated but I have a buddy with an oven that is big enough to fit all those pieces in one or two at a time. The chassis and rough cab is actually sitting on my car trailer now, but I need to get it off there so I can clean up my trailer and sell it for a few bucks and go pick up a full deck trailer about 2 foot longer. Never nothing to do!!

 

Yes, I’m learning that lesson of “ don’t get ahead of yourself” on the the little things like brake hose brackets.
Today I installed the hollow QA1 1-3/8” front sway bar. It has adjustable length links for adding or subtracting preload. Got rear tires mounted and put on. The rear sway bar appears to a bigger task- tomorrow’s project.

 

well, the speed engineering headers do not fit, they must be for some other year truck.
Rear tires are Nittio 555rII 275/40r 17s, the exact same tire I’m running on the rear of my Mustang, kind of a drag radial.
Nothing quite says you’re stuck in the 90s like using 17” rims and tires.

 

I'm a fan of 17" wheels. Just enough diameter to get some good brakes under them and still some good sidewall. On the c10's you can go up to a 20" and still look good obviously suspension depending.