67 C10 shorty
This build will start as a frame and cab. The frame looked a little scaly and the cab weathered but NO rot what so ever, difficult to find these days even in Ca. Not a single panel patch needed here. Most of these need rocker panel, floor or drip rail repair. Some people like the patina look, not for me. First it gets a little frame straightening work to get it right, then disassembly, power washed all the scum off of it. Installed C notches in the frame, a new rear trailing arm crossmember, a new frame tail cross member, removed engine cross member. All of this done on a flat bed trailer outside to save the shop from tons of metal fragments etc. After modifications to the frame it’s off to get powder coated.
after I welded the C notches were welded on the hardware was removed and the holes welded up.
Last edited by 64post; Feb 14, 2021 at 10:52 AM.
opted for a 9 inch heavy duty truck housing, 31 splined CTF (cut to fit) axles that cannot be cut with any thing toothed, an Auburn Power Trax clutchless 31 spline carrier. 1-1/4” and 1/4” removed from long and short axles respectively, aluminum center section and pinion support.
original 12 bolt not worth messing it had a bent tube, cracked housing and just is not as good as a 9 inch Ford imo. 12 bolt for a car is a different thing and most of those parts don’t work on a truck12 bolt
went with tubular adjustable rear control arms from The Tin Works, along with one of their long double adjustable panhard rods. The rear brakes are Ford Exploder brakes with internal e brake, forget calipers with actuators, they drag and they fail like SN95 Mustang specifically. Yep, I know that nut on the bottom of the drop out is backed off, it had to be tighten with a box end wrench.
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An aluminum 5.3 block and 4L60e on Tin Works adjustable motor motor mounts and Tin works Trans cross member to kinda mock up the power train fitment. Was planning to use a 4L70e performance trans with maybe 2400 or less stall with column shift.
Last edited by 64post; Feb 14, 2021 at 07:12 PM.
More cutting and grinding, the QA1 front suspension requires removal of the stock upper A arm bracket and a 3” hole be cut into the upper spring perches of the cross member. Motor mount brackets and trans cross member will be powder coated.
Keep feeding us the progress, you know we pig out on this kind of stuff!
Keep on keepin' on!
Now I prefer the 67-72 also. Just a cool style.
Good stuff! I'll be watching...
If I may ask, where in Sonoma Co. are you? I've driven around there some. Nice country!
I'm just outside of Hanford.
Considering these American Racing 17s. Next up will be retro rack and pinion steering, a lighter more positive way to steer vs. steering box, swing set and idler.
I predict a cam that will just "happen to" lope a bit, being I am against spec'ing cams strictly by sound. Function first....
Carry on....
I predict a cam that will just "happen to" lope a bit, being I am against spec'ing cams strictly by sound. Function first....
Carry on....







