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How did you handle the instrument cluster on a '02, were you able to run the stock assembly? It appears this uses CAN technology which present a challenge for me. Like to be use the stock instrument panel with this 6.2 swap but not sure if I can get it all working. Running the TermX 58x system, DBW and 4l80e. Hate to hack it all up. Thanks!!!
I know what you mean, I read through some of that thread just to see if I could find a clue of what makes other people so dam smart.
I'm just now putting the Dakota Digital gauge cluster in my 68 Chevelle and even with their outstanding instruction I get stumped. Hope you get it figured out. Tony
Thanks tmcmillan5. With the Holley it seems easy enough to just buy a couple of their gauges and just use the CAN system but I like the look of the OE instrument panel. But ya gotta do what ya gotta do!
Not sure if this will be of any value to you, but I just went through something similar on my 2011 Crown Vic LS swap. The stock cluster on that car was a CANBUS unit as well and I didn't want to go through the trouble of trying to make it talk with the GM PCM. I too like the look of the stock gauges, so I bought an analog-driven cluster from an older Panther chassis (2003 Marauder) and hooked up the speedo and tach signals from the GM PCM to power it (along with the relevant calibrations). For the coolant temp I installed a 1998 Camaro LS1 3 wire coolant temp sensor in the head and ran the gauge signal wire to the cluster. The resistance offset was different which meant when the engine was cold the needle was way below C, and when warmed up the needle was on C. I was able to pull off the needle and just re-clock it to work. The fuel sender wiring wasn't any different so that worked right away with no modifications.
You may be able to install an analog style cluster from an older Mustang (94-98 maybe?) provided the dash/cluster shape didn't change too much. Then it's just a matter of making your connections and calibrating in the tune as needed.
I think what most guys do is keep the stock ECU and use the Terminator X to control the engine. You'd have to run duplicate oil and temp gauges. Not sure about the tach or VSS.
Not sure if this will be of any value to you, but I just went through something similar on my 2011 Crown Vic LS swap. The stock cluster on that car was a CANBUS unit as well and I didn't want to go through the trouble of trying to make it talk with the GM PCM. I too like the look of the stock gauges, so I bought an analog-driven cluster from an older Panther chassis (2003 Marauder) and hooked up the speedo and tach signals from the GM PCM to power it (along with the relevant calibrations). For the coolant temp I installed a 1998 Camaro LS1 3 wire coolant temp sensor in the head and ran the gauge signal wire to the cluster. The resistance offset was different which meant when the engine was cold the needle was way below C, and when warmed up the needle was on C. I was able to pull off the needle and just re-clock it to work. The fuel sender wiring wasn't any different so that worked right away with no modifications.
You may be able to install an analog style cluster from an older Mustang (94-98 maybe?) provided the dash/cluster shape didn't change too much. Then it's just a matter of making your connections and calibrating in the tune as needed.
I'll look into getting a couple of old analog gauges from a earlier unit and see if they can be swapped into the existing cluster. But was wondering how the current system gets its rpm signal and if I can somehow duplicate it. But I think this stuff is so interconnected now that just an rpm signal may not be enough to keep things happy and the computer is freaking out due to all the other missing signals.
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Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a
I think what most guys do is keep the stock ECU and use the Terminator X to control the engine. You'd have to run duplicate oil and temp gauges. Not sure about the tach or VSS.
That was the plan but it remains to be seen if the stock ECU will be happy with all the other stuff disconnected (cam/crank, o2's etc).
Anybody know of a person that can handle Ford ECM programming that maybe I can send this ECM to? Thankfully my starting circuits works along with most everything else.
I'll look into getting a couple of old analog gauges from a earlier unit and see if they can be swapped into the existing cluster. But was wondering how the current system gets its rpm signal and if I can somehow duplicate it. But I think this stuff is so interconnected now that just an rpm signal may not be enough to keep things happy and the computer is freaking out due to all the other missing signals.
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That was the plan but it remains to be seen if the stock ECU will be happy with all the other stuff disconnected (cam/crank, o2's etc).
The GM PCM outputs an analog, square wave tach signal so any analog tach (OEM or aftermarket) should pick it up. You can change the pulse setting (4 cyl, 8 cyl) in the tune to match your tach type. My Marauder cluster was an 8 cylinder type, so it worked with a quick change in HPTuners. Some circuits may need a pull up circuit to provide adequate current to power the tach. More info here: https://lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm
The GM PCM outputs an analog, square wave tach signal so any analog tach (OEM or aftermarket) should pick it up. You can change the pulse setting (4 cyl, 8 cyl) in the tune to match your tach type. My Marauder cluster was an 8 cylinder type, so it worked with a quick change in HPTuners. Some circuits may need a pull up circuit to provide adequate current to power the tach. More info here: https://lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm
Thanks LQ4 - I'll probably try and get an older dash cluster and see if I can make do. I'll try to run the tach and speedo right from the TermX. Looking at older wiring diagrams, the wiring to the older style gauges is easy. I just have to figure out if I need to work around a printed circuit board or something. But for the cost of a OE cluster, I'll take a swing at it.
Just for ***** and giggles I pulled the cluster out to start working on it. I exposed the rear of the gauges and when I send voltage to them the needles move. Just need to simulate the proper signals.
Any suggestions on how to simulate signals? Engine won't be running for a while so I don't have that option and don't have any buddies with old cars that I can steal their tach signals. Hate to buy a speedo sender just to chuck it up to a drill and then throw it in the drawer.
You could go the easier but more expensive route and get a bezel like this one and then add Holley canbus gauges to it for basically a plug and play install.
Or for a way more expensive but probably nicer package you could get a Dakota Digital cluster that drops in and should be able to be controlled by the Holley as well.
You could go the easier but more expensive route and get a bezel like this one and then add Holley canbus gauges to it for basically a plug and play install.
Or for a way more expensive but probably nicer package you could get a Dakota Digital cluster that drops in and should be able to be controlled by the Holley as well.
Ultimately that may be the way to go. As long as the turn signals, high beams and parking brake etc can be retained. At least there is options out there.
option B if the budget is there. It works with anything CAN (GM ecu, holley, aem, etc.), all the data is already defined on AEM's website. You can modify the layout yourself and have multiple different screens on the fly. Its mostly copy paste and you can retain things like turn signals, it has two spare analog inputs and a dimmer function when you turn on headlights. If you wanted to add parking brake (additional/various analog inputs) you would have to run them to your ecu and read them off CAN.
option B if the budget is there. It works with anything CAN (GM ecu, holley, aem, etc.), all the data is already defined on AEM's website. You can modify the layout yourself and have multiple different screens on the fly. Its mostly copy paste and you can retain things like turn signals, it has two spare analog inputs and a dimmer function when you turn on headlights. If you wanted to add parking brake (additional/various analog inputs) you would have to run them to your ecu and read them off CAN.
Ultimately that may be the way to go. As long as the turn signals, high beams and parking brake etc can be retained. At least there is options out there.
A local guy used the GM truck version of the Dakota digital option in his LT4/10 speed swapped OBS truck and it does have all the standard lights for signals and high beams and such. That's not to say the mustang version will have them but I would be surprised if they didn't include them in the mustang cluster as well. Seeing the quality of his cluster though I would go that way.
I think what most guys do is keep the stock ECU and use the Terminator X to control the engine. You'd have to run duplicate oil and temp gauges. Not sure about the tach or VSS.
This is what I did. I had a 2000 V6 non ABS car. Temp gauge and Oil pressure added to the motor. Mounted the stock mustang crank wheel to the back of my harmonic balancer and used the sensor to just feed it back the the mustang PCM for tach. Speedo comes from my rear right ABS sensor and into a dagota digital SGI then to the mustang PCM. Volts works normal and so does fuel, as long as you left the float in the tank. I had a non GM trans so I have another dakota digital to give the GM PCM a speed signal but you shouldn't have to deal with that since you've got a 4l80e. I enjoy the look of the 99-04 gauge cluster which is why i chose to keep it in this fashion. You can use an analog one from the first SN95s but I just never cared for the look. Aside from the Dakota Digital box this was fairly easy and inexpensive.
Bringing this back for anybody that is interested.
I'm not sharp enough nor do I have the desire to get the stock ecu working with the LS engine. Dakota Digital has a swap gauge cluster that will probably end up at about $1000.00 when all said and done...which I was seriously considering until I found out that none are avail at the moment. If I get aftermarket gauges/panel I still will have to figure out the turn signals, high beams etc...also a hassle and probably close to a $1k when all said and done.
Ended up buying a ~96 V6 gauge cluster for 70.00, and the pigtails for 50.00 (which are evidently hard(er) to come buy. That with a Dakota Digital converter box and I'm in business after about 3 days sorting out wires, looking at wiring diagrams etc. Everything works except for the traction control and seat belt warning lights.
Quite honestly it would of been A LOT easier to buy a pre '99 car if I knew about this hassle. But its works!!!
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'02 SN95 instrument panel options 
