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I am using the Stock Fan and Radiator assembly from the 1999 Trans Am that was the donor car. I moved the stock Blazer Mounts inward a little bit and a little reworking of the lower mounts and the whole unit including the condenser fits right in and looks like it will work fine. It is a tight fit but Looks like the the fans will cool the engine and pull air through the radiator as well. I bought a steel pulley to replace the composite steering pump pulley but have to remove the pump to install it as the puller will not fit with the radiator in there. The new pulley has holes in it to remove the pump easier. I am also using the stock F-body wiring harness and the fuse block with all the relays to properly work the fans and AC etc. It is a bulky panel and could replace the entire stock fuse block for the truck but I have not worked that out yet. I plan to use the F-body AC parts coupled to a Sanden Compressor. I have a kit to make my own AC hoses. What pics would you like? I have owned this old truck since 1989.
If for some reason it doesn't clear or cool, a good solution is using mid 90s Ford Windstar dual e-Fans. I run this with a modern 4-core equivalent aluminum radiator for a 1 ton in our Jimmy, Has not exceeded 209 degrees in 4 years running and never turned on the high fan setting yet, with our built LQ4.
Build looks nice! Holler if you ever run into issues. We have a 1972 with an LQ4/4L65e.
You guys are awesome!!! I am about to get back to work on this. I am gathering parts. Thanks for all the information. I think that when I put the 6.0 in there I may have to upgrade the radiator and fans. I think my current computer and relays should be able to work any two fans though.
So I passed my water exam and now I am Department of Environment Protection Certified! Big plus is I get to keep my job, Now I can do some work on trucks. I started to work on my Dash Cluster conversion to an S10 speedo per LS1nova71 templates and such. I guess I had to work on something in the man cave. I think I have successfully reset the mileage to zero.
Well a ton of overtime has to come to a halt sometime. Hopefully next month. Sorry for the delay. So I am thinking of just sticking with the 1310 U joints to get this crate rolling. I will probably be sorry but I was thinking of using Strange U joints. Anyway. Christmas is coming and I only have my wife to buy something for. That leaves me!
So I passed my water exam and now I am Department of Environment Protection Certified! Big plus is I get to keep my job, Now I can do some work on trucks. I started to work on my Dash Cluster conversion to an S10 speedo per LS1nova71 templates and such. I guess I had to work on something in the man cave. I think I have successfully reset the mileage to zero.
Looks like you're off to a good start. If you run into any snags just let me know and I can help you out.
I haven't had any issues with our u joints. I know the rear is a 1310, I think my front is a 1310 CV. Bought a new driveshaft from Tom Woods, needed the CV shaft due to my 4" lift (I am running a later model NP208 transfer case). We manage 0-60 in ~4.5 seconds when we get tractions (i.e. someone is sitting nit he back seat for ballast). But I do have an automatic and good axle gears (4.56), that is usually a little easier on the joints. (of course, I have a pretty hard hitting Yank 3200 converter also).
Thank you for your input! I also have Tom Woods driveshafts in my 1970 SWB Chevy 4X4, My rear shaft is a beast with 1350s, a Double Cardan joint, an extended slip joint and a Ford flange on the NP205,But the front is just a beefed up stock unit with 1310s. I guess I am just going to find the strongest U joints I can and enjoy this 2WD conversion for a while and try not to go down the money pit hole.
Not much progress this week. I did check the speedometer with a 9volt battery and it seems to work! I am going into the mess I call my garage and searching for the template. I am thinking of trying to use the voltage gauge as well seeing how it IS free! I am not dead set on this looking totally stock as it will be far from that ever. I wonder if the temperature gauge will work as well. That would save me from drilling my head out to match the old one. HMMM... Too much coffee this morning!
So what is the little domino on the lower left of this speedometer?
Likely just something for the production line to scan when the dials were made. I only see white, so not an ink check. Instrument clusters, especially on trucks, are made with many variations. You'll have different dials and calibrations for 4 cyls, V6s, manual, auto, domestic MPH, export km/H, with and without tach, etc. These are usually checked with a scanning system on the assembly line to ensure the correct dials are placed. (I designed instrument clusters for GM and Dodge for 15 years....)
That makes sense. I need to get back to work on this dash. I am trying to figure out what to use to cut the thick clear plastic with. Possibly a ROTO ZIP ?
Obviously I’m joking. I’ve had great luck with. Jig saw and sawzal. You need a fine tooth count. It’s been over 20 yrs though so I sure there are better ways now
Air powered cut off wheel will work if you have one, but it will melt the edges a bit, that can be cleaned up with a sander though. Or a pair of tin snips will work, but just don't try to cut a lot of it at once, smaller cuts will eventually get you there.
So the overtime is ongoing but I am attempting to decline. I am considered "essential" so this may not be possible. I turned down 2 twelve hour shifts so lets see how it goes. Anyway, I should be able to get back at it a bit this weekend.
10-07-2021, 03:00 PM
