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72 Blazer 5.7 T56 swap

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Old 09-03-2021, 05:43 AM
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Default 72 Blazer 5.7 T56 swap

So I am working on this swap and have most of the parts from a donor 99 Trans Am. Stock ECM etc. I have a Holley bracket for the Sanden compressor and have most of the harness worked out. I am using the original fuse blocks with relays for the fans etc. Pics to come. I originally started this project with little to no money. I picked up the running TA with 150k for $1500. Drove it around for a couple months and then stripped it and sold the body for $800. I sold the 307 and Saginaw 4 speed for $700. Boom - LS and T56.

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Old 09-04-2021, 09:54 AM
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Looking forward to progress pics.
Old 09-05-2021, 08:49 AM
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Thanks for signing up! I am slow to work on this as it is my first swap. I have the motor and trans mounting figured out and have mounted the radiator and condenser/fan assembly to the Blazer radiator support and it seems to fit pretty good. I'll snap some pics when I get a chance.
Old 09-05-2021, 07:23 PM
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Holley sells Everything you need to do the swap.
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Old 09-06-2021, 04:37 AM
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So I thought of going this route of aftermarket computers and such but have found that it is very expensive as well as parts not being in stock. I am choosing to go the stockish route so that when the inevitable failure occurs, I can go to the local parts store and be back on the road asap. There is a lot of support for F-bodies. This will basically be an F-body with a Blazer shell.
Old 10-02-2021, 10:03 AM
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This is the truck.
Old 10-02-2021, 10:09 AM
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This is the engine.

Speed Engineering headers and Holley AC Bracket

Fan and radiator condenser assembly from the F-body

1969 Camaro seats (I think)

Where the shifter sits right now.
Old 10-02-2021, 10:14 AM
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Sorry for the size of the pics. I am still learning this site. I am slow to work on this as I am trying to figure out the best way to start. I need to weld up the spring perches on the differential but want to correct the driveshaft angle. I need a driveshaft but want to convert to 1350 U joints. To convert to 1350, I need to replace the 1310 yoke on the 12 Bolt. You get the picture. So I think the next step will be to replace the Yoke on the Diff.
Old 10-02-2021, 10:36 AM
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If the rear yoke is only off a couple of degrees, they sell wedges. 2* or 4* IIRC. That’s ally easier the removing and re-welding the perches

A stock 99-13 Silverado upper radiator hose SHOULD. bolt right in. That’s if u care about the flexible radiator hose.
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Old 10-02-2021, 10:47 AM
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Thank you! I did a "flip kit" to lower the rear axle, so the perches are now on the top of the axle tube and need to be on the bottom as the leaf spring is now located on the bottom.. I opted to weld my own perches instead of the weak looking bracket sold with the flip kit as I have seen those bend under hard acceleration and I don't want any catastrophes here.
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Old 10-02-2021, 02:25 PM
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Gotcha. Do you have any pics showing the truck better?
Old 10-02-2021, 02:30 PM
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It's stuffed in the garage on jackstands next to a 1970 SWB 4X4. The 1967 front sheetmetal is not yet installed. It has a single wall top and a 1973 front cradle with 5 lugs and front disc brakes..
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Old 10-02-2021, 10:40 PM
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this is a good start. sign me up. i like a good build thread.
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Old 10-02-2021, 11:30 PM
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In, for more pictures...
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Old 10-02-2021, 11:59 PM
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Which radiator/fan setup are you using? Looks like it grew there!
Great job so far!
Old 10-03-2021, 04:38 AM
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I am using the Stock Fan and Radiator assembly from the 1999 Trans Am that was the donor car. I moved the stock Blazer Mounts inward a little bit and a little reworking of the lower mounts and the whole unit including the condenser fits right in and looks like it will work fine. It is a tight fit but Looks like the the fans will cool the engine and pull air through the radiator as well. I bought a steel pulley to replace the composite steering pump pulley but have to remove the pump to install it as the puller will not fit with the radiator in there. The new pulley has holes in it to remove the pump easier. I am also using the stock F-body wiring harness and the fuse block with all the relays to properly work the fans and AC etc. It is a bulky panel and could replace the entire stock fuse block for the truck but I have not worked that out yet. I plan to use the F-body AC parts coupled to a Sanden Compressor. I have a kit to make my own AC hoses. What pics would you like? I have owned this old truck since 1989.
Old 10-03-2021, 04:45 AM
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I originally started this with zero budget but I got a new job and sold a few things and have few bucks now. I couldn't turn down a 5,3 for $375 so I brought it home to find it was really a 6.0 LQ9 that almost looked rebuilt or with low miles. I always wanted a set of AFR heads so those are going on that too. I will run the 5.7 for now while building the other as I know the 5.7 runs good and has good oil pressure.
Old 10-03-2021, 10:45 AM
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Which AFR heads do you ? It is important that they fit the application intended for them. Too big a head, even AFR, will not perform as well as a correctly sized one.
Old 10-03-2021, 03:51 PM
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If you want to save a few bucks L92 heads are a good solution.
Old 10-04-2021, 07:01 PM
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I purchased the 210 Enforcer Low buck AFRs.210CC LS1 ENFORCER CYLINDER HEAD (briantooleyracing.com) They are on a shelf in my mancave waiting for the rebirth of the LQ9. That will be after I get this crate running around for a while.


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