Just easier to cut more out than it is to put it back on. The T56 rubber lower shift boot has a lip around it which is meant to sit in trans tunnel hole and seal up the hole from the cabin. Too far and that seal is lessened. The boot also has holes in it to screw it to the sheet metal. If you cut too far, you might not have enough material to screw the boot onto.

I could have gone farther and made a better cut, but I was probably at the end of my metal "fabrication" talent rope.

 

Ok, what the heck is going on here??? What are these things?? One has a plug with two wires. And the other has something to do with the key?? What are they for and what do I do with them??? Do I need them??? Please talk freely lol.

 

one more step completed. Lots of grinding and measuring. Boot fits like a glove.

 

found a supper nice mouse nest made from dog hair. Looks very comfy. And found a snake skin under the dash. Didn’t see either.

 

I believe the plug with two wires might go to the light under the PRND21 display. Was that hooked up? The T56 console has a light under the ash tray area, so you may want it, but not totally needed. See lower posts, its the brake shift interlock.

They grey plug is the park lock cable from the steering wheel (lets you take your key out when you put it in park). You don't need it, can be tossed.

Glad your visitors vacated the premises!

 

Did some more digging and that two wire plug might actually be the neutral safety switch for the auto. I assume it plugged into the brake transmission shift interlock (black thing)? Not sure how that comes into play since I swapped over the entire M6 wiring harness.

 

Found a wiring diagram. The black thing is the "A/T shift lock control actuator solenoid" and the plug that goes into it is activated off of the brake pedal, so that plug is what allows you to shift from park when you have your foot on the brake.

 

Ok, so I don’t need that at all anymore!! I wonder if I can power my reverse lock out with those wires? I guess those wires get power when the brake pedal is pressed? Do you think it will work for that?

 

I'm not totally sure. Reading that wiring diagram, it seems like that plug gets 12v constant and goes open when you step on the brakes, which is opposite what you would want for the reverse lockout solenoid.

It may be best to break out a multimeter and do some testing on that plug.
It does seem like a common mod to wire the lockout solenoid into the brake light switch, though.

 

Hey there, I’m trying to remove that park lock cable and holy crap is it ever in there. I can’t seem to
see how it’s attached to the steering column but under there. I’m very tempted to cut it and zip tie the tail end to the steering column shaft. What do you think of that? Will that cause any issues? Thanx

 

I'm 99% sure it's bolted to the steering column. Since I had my column out it was super easy to unbolt and remove, but there is no issue just zip tying it out of the way.

 

Ok I’ll see if I can unbolt. If I can’t reach those bolts would there be any harm in cutting that cable under the dash?

 

Ok, some progress and a setback. I did all the wiring and all seems to be functioning as it should. Cruise control once the swap is done. I had to remove the brake booster to install the master and make the hole etc, now when they start the car o have no power brakes???!!!! When I pull the big *** vacuum hose, there is a strong vacuum and it’s plugged in well, pedal is hard and will barley stop the car. What the in the world can this be??? Help.

 

The plastic ball valve that plugs into the brake booster may be clogged or installed backwards or it could also be the hose is worn and collapses under vacuum. Another thing you can do is to take a Mighty Vac and find the correct sized fitting to fit into the rubber grommet on the brake booster and pull a little vacuum to see if it will hold a vacuum and if not then the diaphragm in the booster is leaking and the booster will need to be replaced. I made the mistake of pushing the brake pedal in when I did not have the brake master cylinder connected and when I did I heard a loud pop. What happened was the rod or piston that pushes against the brake master cylinder came out of the booster and that pop was me rupturing the diaphragm in the booster. You will have a hard pedal if your not getting vacuum to the booster or if its damaged.

 

I pulled that vacuum hose off while the car was running and it had a Stronack vacuum there. All I did was remove it, and bolted it back in a week later. How fragile is that diaphragm?? Maybe the rod got knocked around abit when on the Ben h from moving it around. I did not step on the brake like what you described. And the pedal is rock hard.

 

So it looks like the brake booster crapped out for some unknown reason. How can this Happen??? Car has 40K miles on it!!! Is this a thing that brakes a lot? You never know of ANYONE changing a bloody brake booster!!! I’m bitching cause it’s hard to change lol.

 

....... still trying to figure out what a Stronack vacuum is..... LOL

 

I think he was meaning to say strong vacuum.

With the engine running and that plastic 90/ball valve installed correctly you should feel it sucking air and if not then you have it backwards. If you connect the line to the booster and you hear a hissing noise when you push in on the brake pedal or have a hard pedal then most likely the booster is done. I've found the best way to test the booster is with a MIghty Vac to see it holds vacuum. If you pump and pump and no pressure builds or it leaks down quickly then it's toast.

 

Ok, I tore it apart 😩 found the back booster plug was sitting kind of sideways in its bore. And has a tear in it. And when I put some compressed air in to it through the vacuum grommet in the front, the air passes right through the booster and shoots out the back of it!!! Is this normal? Should air be able to pass from front to back? Or is it supposed to be 2 completely separate compartments??

 

From my very limited experience with brake boosters, they are two completely separate chambers until you press on the brakes, and only then do the chambers interact, allowing the atmospheric pressure to be utilized against the vacuum of the engine to help push the rod into the master cylinder.

When you pressurize the front chamber, (which should be under vacuum) you might be pushing the diagram apart, allowing air to pass to the rear of the booster. But when applied under vacuum, that would pull the diaphragm together, allowing it to maintain vacuum. I am unsure of how to diagnose beyond being able to pull a vacuum on the booster like 01CamaroSSTx mentioned.