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Second Gen Camaro overheating issues

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Old Jul 22, 2022 | 06:24 PM
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Default Second Gen Camaro overheating issues

I have a 79 Camaro with a 2007 5.3 in it. I've been having some overheating issues and am wondering what other people use for LS swap radiators? I've already upgraded the fans to Spal, installed a 180° thermostat, and added a couple of holes in the shroud with rubber flaps. Idling and around town it stay around 190, but on the expressway it pushes 230° and I'm hoping a better radiator will help. Any suggestions?
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Old Jul 22, 2022 | 06:37 PM
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How big is the radiator, which size fans, and have you thoroughly burped all air from the engine?
The 180 thermostat isn't much different than the stock 187 unit, and it is notthe issue going down the highway.
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Old Jul 22, 2022 | 07:46 PM
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Fully burped with no signs of air trapped. Radiator is physically the same size as a stock second Gen radiator but triple core. There are two fans at 1670 cfm each.
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Old Jul 22, 2022 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RockLB
Fully burped with no signs of air trapped. Radiator is physically the same size as a stock second Gen radiator but triple core. There are two fans at 1670 cfm each.
Can you physically see the radiator flowing inside when the thermostat opens? Im running a cheap stock size, aluminum radiator and i daily drive my swap everyday here in the Tx 100+ and it runs no higher than 190 just sitting at a stop light or something for a decent period of time. Maybe thermostat?
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Old Jul 23, 2022 | 05:26 AM
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I can see water movement but it doesn't seem like much. I had this problem with the stock thermostat so when I replaced it I put in water on the stove first and checked it with a meat thermometer. The only reason I was thinking radiator is because it's just a cheap ebay one. The new fans have helped greatly but I'd like to get the temps down more. I feel like if I did a long expressway run with the A/C on high it would climb even higher
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Old Jul 23, 2022 | 09:27 AM
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I had the same problem. It was due to using the wrong thermostat for the housing I had. See post number 224 in my build thread.

Turbo C3 Build link
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Old Jul 23, 2022 | 10:34 AM
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When I installed the thermostat I did notice I had to push in on it to collapse the spring but if I'm reading your post correctly that will only affect warm up and not cooling after warm up, correct?
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Old Jul 23, 2022 | 11:54 AM
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I can't tell if it would only affect warmup. Once I made sure that both warmup and normal were working correctly, I no longer had the same symptoms as yours appears to have. Difference was night and day.
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Old Jul 23, 2022 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by RockLB
I can see water movement but it doesn't seem like much. I had this problem with the stock thermostat so when I replaced it I put in water on the stove first and checked it with a meat thermometer. The only reason I was thinking radiator is because it's just a cheap ebay one. The new fans have helped greatly but I'd like to get the temps down more. I feel like if I did a long expressway run with the A/C on high it would climb even higher
I wonder if coolant is passing through the cooling system "too fast"? I did a swap on an s10 recently and I put a new water pump and thermostat in it. The thermostat is 160. The guy also got the cheap ebay 3 row radiator with fan and shroud. The engine temp has gotten up to 225. I popped off the radiator cap while it was hot and running and released the pressure and the temp dropped nearly 15 degrees instantly. It could be air in the system which you said you already did but I think something just isn't right with the brand new thermostat. Which, I feel may be your issue too. The water pump on my personal swap that I daily drive that runs very cool every day here in Tx already had the thermostat and housing installed when I bought the pump. So i don't even know what temp the thermostat is but it runs nice and cool. I would suggest what was suggested right above me. I don't think the radiator is your issue. But, its really just a guessing game until you replace more parts... lol

Also, maybe check the radiator cap? Thats a very over looked part of the coolant system.
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Old Jul 23, 2022 | 03:50 PM
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Will compressing that spring when installing the thermostat affect the other spring opening all the way? I did put a new radiator cap on, I forgot to mention that. So that's two thermostats and two radiator caps with no change.
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 02:28 PM
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If I’m understanding you correctly. I would assume so. But I’m not sure. You typically don’t want things to compress when installing unless it is a spring IE valve/spring.

sounds like the proper thermostat and housing with a good burping of the system should be what you want.
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 02:59 PM
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I went back through all my notes and found I had put a water pump on from a 2000 Camaro so I went ahead and ordered the proper thermostat, it appears to be the one that's integrated into the water neck. I will update when I get it installed. Thanks for all the replies so far.
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 03:41 PM
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One more thing I do on my LS swaps. I drill a few 1/8" holes in the flange area in the thermostat. It seems make bleeding the cooling system easier.
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Old Jul 28, 2022 | 12:50 AM
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It just sounds to me like a bad radiator, its a very clear sign based on the fact that it only overheats on the highway and no-where else. You could trying flushing the radiator and restoring some surface area. I've had success with taking temperataure readings in a grid pattern on the radiator at operating temperature to see if there are any cold spots that indicate poor performace. To be honest, I think any parts store radiator would be fine in your case, the extra cooling capacity offered by the expensive aftermarket doesn't seem needed. It could also be thermostat related, and a possible quick and easy fix.
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Old Jul 28, 2022 | 04:32 AM
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That’s actually a really good idea. Use a temp gun(laser) to map out potential bad zones of the radiator. Also make sure al/most of the cooling fins look straight.

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Old Jul 30, 2022 | 06:07 PM
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I installed the proper thermostat today and went on a 40 mile drive. I borrowed a buddies Snap on scanner so I could get real temps. It climbed to 135° before I pulled over. The fans cooled it down a bit and then for the hell of it I kicked off the circuit breaker to one of the fans. I ran 128° on the way back home. Are the fans blocking air going down the expressway? I'm considering dumping the three core radiator for a coldcase dual core with 1.25 cores. Anyone know anything about them? I'm also thinking about removing one fan completely tomorrow and taking another ride, pro's/con's? I like the idea of checking for hot spots with a heat gun, I'll give that a try also. Thanks again for everyone's input.
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Old Jul 31, 2022 | 04:41 AM
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The temp was 135* ? Or 235*

make sure the fans are pulling air and not pushing . Someone did say something about the radiator might have some blockage.
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Old Jul 31, 2022 | 05:17 AM
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Fans are definitely pulling and 235°, I misspoke.
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Old Aug 3, 2022 | 05:42 PM
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Are you running lines to a heater core?
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Old Aug 3, 2022 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Are you running lines to a heater core?
If there is no heater core, make sure the heater hose lines off the water pump are looped.

Andrew
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