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I'm adding some clearance where I marked the tight area.
I'm cutting that high section off.
I'm maintaining a slight increasing angle towards the back of the pan so the oil drains to the back of the pan better. I don't want it pooling up front.
Here's a clearance check on a beater block. The pan is not sitting all the way down. There is a slight interference at the very front of the pan and it's touching the oil shield. I had to massage the oil shield previously on the real engine before, so this was expected. The pan is about 1/4 inch elevated, but you can still see the the new lower section I'm working will clear everything.
Since I had to cut into the pan anyway, and the lowest part could be an inch lower, I'm thinking that I would have been better off starting with a truck pan. I would do the same thing to the front of the pan and cut a few inches off the back to give me a pan with the same depth as the DCT and clear the subframe as well.
Since I already had the milling machine set up for cutting the oil pan, I decided to cut up a truck oil pan just for the hell of it.
First thing I noticed is that the aluminum is alot thicker on the truck one. About 3/32 on truck one vs 1/8" on the aftermarket. I'm definitely going to weld up the aftermarket one. It's clean and just a single 1/8 sheet of aluminum and it's done.
But I'm kinda liking the truck one too cause it will be the same height as the DCT trans and the rectangular pan area means less oil sloshing around. If I hadn't already built the oil trap door baffles for the aftermarket one, I'd consider doing the truck one. Gonna take some serious cleaning before welding that one.
I did some practice welds with the cast material that was cut off and it came out terrible. Practice welds on the 1/8 sheet were great. So I let me friend Chris weld it up for me since he has more skill welding that crappy, dirty cast aluminum.
MaxxEcu is adamant about keeping chassis grounds and signal grounds separated. The standard knock sensor on an LS is a 1 wire sensor and uses the engine block as the ground return signal. MaxxEcu wants a 2 wire sensor to keep the signal grounds away from the chassis grounds. So I'm adapting a 2 wire sensor to fit in the space where the GM knock sensor used to be.
Problem is that the thread size in the block in incompatible with the 2 wire sensor I have.
Upper right hand corner is the GM 1 wire sensor with it's large thread.
Upper middle is 2 wire sensor with mounting hole smaller than thread size in block.
Lower left is the adapter stud made from a bolt. It has a big thread for the block and a small thread for the sensor and locking nut.
That seems silly to me unless I'm not understanding it. A ground is a ground. We ground battery to chassis and body, chassis to engine and chassis to body. I am no electrical engineer, but I simply don't understand it. Unless resistance to ground is what is sending the signal, which would also be silly in my mind. That being said, if you are concerned about supportability or warranty, I get doing it how they want it.
Originally Posted by LSswap
MaxxEcu is adamant about keeping chassis grounds and signal grounds separated. The standard knock sensor on an LS is a 1 wire sensor and uses the engine block as the ground return signal. MaxxEcu wants a 2 wire sensor to keep the signal grounds away from the chassis grounds. So I'm adapting a 2 wire sensor to fit in the space where the GM knock sensor used to be.
Problem is that the thread size in the block in incompatible with the 2 wire sensor I have.
Upper right hand corner is the GM 1 wire sensor with it's large thread.
Upper middle is 2 wire sensor with mounting hole smaller than thread size in block.
Lower left is the adapter stud made from a bolt. It has a big thread for the block and a small thread for the sensor and locking nut.
That seems silly to me unless I'm not understanding it. A ground is a ground. We ground battery to chassis and body, chassis to engine and chassis to body. I am no electrical engineer, but I simply don't understand it. Unless resistance to ground is what is sending the signal, which would also be silly in my mind. That being said, if you are concerned about supportability or warranty, I get doing it how they want it.
Unfortunately, a ground is not a ground. If you mix high current and fly-back voltage and small signal on the same ground, the small signal will have noise and false signals on it. Virtually all modern engine management have separate signal and chassis ground wires. Even GM went away from the single wire knock sensor to a 2 wire. Why would they add an extra wire unless there is a real benefit.
Unfortunately, a ground is not a ground. If you mix high current and fly-back voltage and small signal on the same ground, the small signal will have noise and false signals on it. Virtually all modern engine management have separate signal and chassis ground wires. Even GM went away from the single wire knock sensor to a 2 wire. Why would they add an extra wire unless there is a real benefit.
11-27-2023, 08:41 AM
