Drive line angle
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 32
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From: Sunny So. Cal
yes, leaf sprung car, Hotchkiss 1.5 lowering spring pack with cal tracs currently at zero pre load.
should be noted the Hotchkiss leaf has a heavy lower multi leaf that is offset to the front to assist limit axle wrap under hard acceleration.
Car is mostly weekend getaways freeway and occasional weekend hot rod shows.
should be noted the Hotchkiss leaf has a heavy lower multi leaf that is offset to the front to assist limit axle wrap under hard acceleration.
Car is mostly weekend getaways freeway and occasional weekend hot rod shows.
Last edited by Magonsterz; Mar 20, 2023 at 11:27 PM.
There is a guy over on pro-touring who did that. The Driveshaft Shop, yes I know about the reputation, makes rzeppa jointed shafts for this. That's the more expensive route for sure.
@Magonsterz As for the angles, given you have caltracs installed, I'd probably guess around 1° of pinion rotation under load. Start with the pinion at 2.6° slope down (the yoke pointed up). That way under load going down the highway the "assumed" 1° of rotation will pull the drive line into alignment. If you have vibration at highways speeds, I'd assume the axle is wrapping more than 1°, so adjust it down .5°, as in set the pinion 2°.
If this were a drag car only, with just leaf springs, having the pinion at .4°, as you have it now, might make sense, since the axle wrap under load would pull the drive line up to the equal and opposite angles. Given that this is a weekend street/show car, don't follow drag car advice.
Also, on a car, don't worry about the drive shaft angle. You only need to consider that in an application where you could potentially exceed the operating angle of the u-joints - that will never happen in a car. The only angles you need be concerned with are the angle at the yoke on the pinion, and the output shaft on the transmission.
@Magonsterz As for the angles, given you have caltracs installed, I'd probably guess around 1° of pinion rotation under load. Start with the pinion at 2.6° slope down (the yoke pointed up). That way under load going down the highway the "assumed" 1° of rotation will pull the drive line into alignment. If you have vibration at highways speeds, I'd assume the axle is wrapping more than 1°, so adjust it down .5°, as in set the pinion 2°.
If this were a drag car only, with just leaf springs, having the pinion at .4°, as you have it now, might make sense, since the axle wrap under load would pull the drive line up to the equal and opposite angles. Given that this is a weekend street/show car, don't follow drag car advice.
Also, on a car, don't worry about the drive shaft angle. You only need to consider that in an application where you could potentially exceed the operating angle of the u-joints - that will never happen in a car. The only angles you need be concerned with are the angle at the yoke on the pinion, and the output shaft on the transmission.
There is a guy over on pro-touring who did that. The Driveshaft Shop, yes I know about the reputation, makes rzeppa jointed shafts for this. That's the more expensive route for sure.
@Magonsterz As for the angles, given you have caltracs installed, I'd probably guess around 1° of pinion rotation under load. Start with the pinion at 2.6° slope down (the yoke pointed up). That way under load going down the highway the "assumed" 1° of rotation will pull the drive line into alignment. If you have vibration at highways speeds, I'd assume the axle is wrapping more than 1°, so adjust it down .5°, as in set the pinion 2°.
If this were a drag car only, with just leaf springs, having the pinion at .4°, as you have it now, might make sense, since the axle wrap under load would pull the drive line up to the equal and opposite angles. Given that this is a weekend street/show car, don't follow drag car advice.
Also, on a car, don't worry about the drive shaft angle. You only need to consider that in an application where you could potentially exceed the operating angle of the u-joints - that will never happen in a car. The only angles you need be concerned with are the angle at the yoke on the pinion, and the output shaft on the transmission.
@Magonsterz As for the angles, given you have caltracs installed, I'd probably guess around 1° of pinion rotation under load. Start with the pinion at 2.6° slope down (the yoke pointed up). That way under load going down the highway the "assumed" 1° of rotation will pull the drive line into alignment. If you have vibration at highways speeds, I'd assume the axle is wrapping more than 1°, so adjust it down .5°, as in set the pinion 2°.
If this were a drag car only, with just leaf springs, having the pinion at .4°, as you have it now, might make sense, since the axle wrap under load would pull the drive line up to the equal and opposite angles. Given that this is a weekend street/show car, don't follow drag car advice.
Also, on a car, don't worry about the drive shaft angle. You only need to consider that in an application where you could potentially exceed the operating angle of the u-joints - that will never happen in a car. The only angles you need be concerned with are the angle at the yoke on the pinion, and the output shaft on the transmission.
Andrew
Cool, yah when ever someone mentions their name it seems you get the ones who had a bad experience. It seems like a great idea, for a lot of car applications, as long as you don't get too carried away (drastic operating angles will still heat up a cv joint), the angles no longer matter.
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Cool, yah when ever someone mentions their name it seems you get the ones who had a bad experience. It seems like a great idea, for a lot of car applications, as long as you don't get too carried away (drastic operating angles will still heat up a cv joint), the angles no longer matter.
Andrew
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