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Im looking at the kit, and its pretty ridiculously priced. But it looks like it uses a bunch of parts from 2007 corvettes? The only custom thing im seeing is the pocket water pump and the water pump/bracket assembly.
The Alternator, A/C, Tensioner, Dampener and power steering pump all look like they are from 2007ish corvettes? Am i wrong? Anyone know?
I love the mount system but the pricing is crazy. They want $600 CAD for the alternator alone. I can source out generic aftermarket parts through my shop and save almost $1500 or more if i get these my self.
Edit: Once I gained 2 extra braincells I re read their description. All the parts including the water pump are from a 2014 c7. 6.2L Lt1 engine.
I'll do a price compare after work
Edit 2: The C7 does not have a power steering pump as its electric. But so far everything else seems to match up. The p/S pump is a gm type 2 from most Ls engines. So I can reuse the one off my van.
Last edited by ToastedPirate; 06-08-2023 at 06:27 PM.
I did a LS1 swap into a 71 Corvette. I used all 2002 Camaro FEA stuff. You do need to block the stock water pump inlet and outlets and drill new ports to clear the upper a-arms. Not the end of the world and it lets you use all stock GM stuff making replacements only as far away as a NAPA store.
I did a LS1 swap into a 71 Corvette. I used all 2002 Camaro FEA stuff. You do need to block the stock water pump inlet and outlets and drill new ports to clear the upper a-arms. Not the end of the world and it lets you use all stock GM stuff making replacements only as far away as a NAPA store.
Yea looking into this. It looks like its not as simple as i thought. Id need to see someone who has the kit and do my own measurements.
They claim its their own custom pulleys and what not. So its hard to tell if thats true or not without actually holding and measuring things. The alternator is definitely a different housing with c7 internals(claim) the harmonic balancer says custom made too. Looks stock to me but again. Need to hold it.
Im most likely going to do the 2002 camaro stuff since this is too much of a crap shoot. Even their water/acc bracket is going to be $600 to get. I just really like how clean it is.
Did you use the camaro brackets and mounts for all the acc's as well? Or do they work with the stock truck/van mounts?
On my LS swaps I haven't used AC. But I helped my car buddy swap a LS6 into a 89 Camaro. The used the Dingo adjustable engine mounts with Camaro FEA. They had to notch and box the right frame rail then used the Camaro AC mount and it worked well.
Over on the Corvette Forums some with LS swapped C3's have used aftermarket upper a-arms that eliminate the need to mod the Camaro water pump.
On my current LS swap into a 80 Camaro I like to use the stock Camaro FEA mounting brackets. But now the alt bracket has been discontinued. I found a used one but ICT makes some nice stuff.
OP, I'm sending you a PM. You can post it if you want. I'm not positive if it's against the rules or not.
The info is on YouTube. Ryan (Blaser builds)
posted it about a year ago. The pulley offset is special according to his info. He explains how to build it cheaper.
I used truck spacing on my 68 C3 swap. No issues there. An Fbody water pump simply needs the heater fittings removed and NPT tapped. 90 fittings will clear stock suspension. Kwik makes a high passenger Sanden AC bracket. Not as pretty as some others, but works.
My plan is to just slap the engine and trans in. Mock it all up, figur eout my spacing and what all I need. And go from there. Probably going to grab the cheap ict billet brackets (I haven't even looked at this cars engine bay yet to see if I even have power steering or a/c 😂😂😂
To get more clearance for my LQ4 / C3 I used these SPC upper control arms. With these arms, the alignment adjustment are no longer near the heater outlets and there is way more clearance.
The lowers are stock and these let me align it to a non stock spec.
The holley kit uses its own proprietary spacing. The accessories all hang off the custom built water pump housing. I did find a video that was helpful for a cheaper Alt solution.
FYI, The mid mount system has a flaw. The alternator has too small of a pulley and burns itself out. It also has a very poor ground design. There are 3 options to fix this.
1. Buy the retro-modded alternator from Level 7 motorsports. Powermaster makes it specifically for them and is only available from them, via $500.
2. Know of an actual person or shop that knows how to modify/fix the ground problem and use a 3" pulley. A pulley can be had from a few companies. It uses the same shaft diameter of .660" of a normal LS style alt.
3. Have actual knowledge of how to fix this yourself...but still have to use a 3" pulley to overdrive the alternator to keep it from pushing too much voltage.
It is a "one wire, hairpin style" unit that self excites & is internally regulated, so you don not need and exciter wire for it to work properly. All it needs is the main cable to the battery. I know of some guys that get away with just doing a larger pulley to overdive it, but it still had problems of failing over 6500 engine rpm.
Holley is well-aware of this but could care less about anything they sell that has problems. Kind of like the Terminator x harnesses, made in china and having poor connections, ecus failing right out of the box, etc.
I am very familiar with the mid mount design. I have the original layout on paper in my filing cabinet.
Life lesson......Be careful who you talk to about your great ideas.
I had it on my wish list for months. After options of cutting the frame (G body) frame for clearance and using accessories from a 20 year old truck with 500,000kms. I decided to pay the piper and have a one stop shop, all brand new including thermostat, belt and compressor.
Once it was paid for, I have no regrets.
FYI, The mid mount system has a flaw. The alternator has too small of a pulley and burns itself out. It also has a very poor ground design. There are 3 options to fix this.
1. Buy the retro-modded alternator from Level 7 motorsports. Powermaster makes it specifically for them and is only available from them, via $500.
2. Know of an actual person or shop that knows how to modify/fix the ground problem and use a 3" pulley. A pulley can be had from a few companies. It uses the same shaft diameter of .660" of a normal LS style alt.
3. Have actual knowledge of how to fix this yourself...but still have to use a 3" pulley to overdrive the alternator to keep it from pushing too much voltage.
It is a "one wire, hairpin style" unit that self excites & is internally regulated, so you don not need and exciter wire for it to work properly. All it needs is the main cable to the battery. I know of some guys that get away with just doing a larger pulley to overdive it, but it still had problems of failing over 6500 engine rpm.
Holley is well-aware of this but could care less about anything they sell that has problems. Kind of like the Terminator x harnesses, made in china and having poor connections, ecus failing right out of the box, etc.
I am very familiar with the mid mount design. I have the original layout on paper in my filing cabinet.
Life lesson......Be careful who you talk to about your great ideas.
It's funny that you mention this, I have the midmount kit and am on my 2nd alternator, thought ot was something I did wrong.
FYI, The mid mount system has a flaw. The alternator has too small of a pulley and burns itself out. It also has a very poor ground design. There are 3 options to fix this.
1. Buy the retro-modded alternator from Level 7 motorsports. Powermaster makes it specifically for them and is only available from them, via $500.
2. Know of an actual person or shop that knows how to modify/fix the ground problem and use a 3" pulley. A pulley can be had from a few companies. It uses the same shaft diameter of .660" of a normal LS style alt.
3. Have actual knowledge of how to fix this yourself...but still have to use a 3" pulley to overdrive the alternator to keep it from pushing too much voltage.
It is a "one wire, hairpin style" unit that self excites & is internally regulated, so you don not need and exciter wire for it to work properly. All it needs is the main cable to the battery. I know of some guys that get away with just doing a larger pulley to overdive it, but it still had problems of failing over 6500 engine rpm.
Holley is well-aware of this but could care less about anything they sell that has problems. Kind of like the Terminator x harnesses, made in china and having poor connections, ecus failing right out of the box, etc.
I am very familiar with the mid mount design. I have the original layout on paper in my filing cabinet.
Life lesson......Be careful who you talk to about your great ideas.
Thanks for this information. I have a brand new system and I am guessing that I have the ground issue. The additional bad part is that I bought mine back in 2018 so my only choice is to replace it but like you and others said, I don’t want to keep the current alternator and pulley. I had found the Level 7 option and may check those guys out or try a local alternator shop.
Just a note to those buying aftermarket alternators that are painted. I bought a brand new alternator painted black. The paint, at the mounting points, was a complete insulator and did not allow the alternator case to be grounded to the chassis.
If you have one of these, at least grind the paint off mounting points so it makes a good ground.
Obviously, no FEAD is perfect, and I really wanted the Mid mount system. I didnt know about the alternator having a problem burning up, however, there is another "problem" with the mid mount. The lower main bolt for the alt is behind the power steering pulley, so if you have to remove the alt, you have to remove the ps pump or at least the ps pump pulley. We dont "plan" on having to replace the alt on a regular basis but now that i see the Holley alt has a problem, it may need to be replaced more often than i thought. Sure does lool good though.
I had troubles ordering the Level 7 alt. So I ended up going with Power Masters version and the Motion Raceworks 3" pulley. I still have the Holley alt, sitting on my shelf, brand new never used. Not going down that road,...thanks in advance to this thread. The PowerMaster alt has the grounding lug and same mounting as the Holley. I believe its where Level 7 sources theirs from n they just add a 3" pulley.