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I've swapped a 2000 Tahoe 5.3 into my 88 Toyota LC. Turned it on for the first time tonight and noticed coolant in the seam between the head and block on the passenger side. Not freeze plug, not crossover pipe. The one bolt i could get to (rear most bolt) without removing the exhaust manifold, I put a rachet to it and it was loose. My question is, if I remove the manifold and torque all the bolts, would that be ok? Imay have to change fluids but should that work. Or.... Do i need to remove the head and replace the head gasket. Thanks for any input.
Are you sure it's not leaking from the Allen bolt that threads in where the temperature sender goes? If you had a head gasket blown you'd have coolant getting into the combustion chambers and white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Also the oil would look milky due to coolant contamination.
I narrowed it down to the bolts being loose. At least the one bolt I could get two without removing the exhaust manifold. Can I just re torque all the bolts?
Stock head bolts have a one time use and final bolt stretch is reached by an angle torque not a foot pounds torque. You can try and replace the head bolts without replacing the head gasket and see if it solves your issue but if it dosen't your doing it over again.
I might as well do both sides, new bolts gaskets etc. This motor has 135k on it. Minor set back. I was at the point where I could drive it to the muffler shop and get that done.
These are the cylinder heads I have. Should there be any special considerations for ordering the bolts?
Last edited by Ncookiii; Aug 13, 2023 at 11:00 AM.
Not sure what block you have but once you remove the head you'll know which bolts to get..Some of the LS blocks use 8 long and 2 shorts for the 9 & 10 bolts holes while the newer ones used all the same length shorter bolts.
Not sure what block you have but once you remove the head you'll know which bolts to get..Some of the LS blocks use 8 long and 2 shorts for the 9 & 10 bolts holes while the newer ones used all the same length shorter bolts.
If it's the 2000 block he mentions in the first post, he'll need the early set (8 long/2 short per head)
I agree, I went that route. I'm waiting for the bolts to arrive. In the mean time I'll replace my tie rod ends, bleed brakes and install my TCC switch. Which all needed done anyway.
Thanks, it has stock power steering. Where it sits now is I'm ready to take it to the muffler shop (after I replace the head gaskets and bolts) and then a few more electrical connections having to do with integrating the stock 4WD transfer case. I'll probably be lurking around the forums for that too. I'm hoping it's all buttoned up for Elk hunting. Winter I'll complete the interior and next year the body. Your FJ40 is getting rare, but some places are going through them and putting 100k price tags on them.
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Do I need to remove head. 
