Ncookiii

I've swapped a 2000 Tahoe 5.3 into my 88 Toyota LC. Turned it on for the first time tonight and noticed coolant in the seam between the head and block on the passenger side. Not freeze plug, not crossover pipe. The one bolt i could get to (rear most bolt) without removing the exhaust manifold, I put a rachet to it and it was loose. My question is, if I remove the manifold and torque all the bolts, would that be ok? Imay have to change fluids but should that work. Or.... Do i need to remove the head and replace the head gasket. Thanks for any input.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Are you sure it's not leaking from the Allen bolt that threads in where the temperature sender goes? If you had a head gasket blown you'd have coolant getting into the combustion chambers and white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Also the oil would look milky due to coolant contamination.

Ncookiii

I narrowed it down to the bolts being loose. At least the one bolt I could get two without removing the exhaust manifold. Can I just re torque all the bolts?

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Stock head bolts have a one time use and final bolt stretch is reached by an angle torque not a foot pounds torque. You can try and replace the head bolts without replacing the head gasket and see if it solves your issue but if it dosen't your doing it over again.

Ncookiii

Ok thanks,

I might as well do both sides, new bolts gaskets etc. This motor has 135k on it. Minor set back. I was at the point where I could drive it to the muffler shop and get that done.


These are the cylinder heads I have. Should there be any special considerations for ordering the bolts?

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Not sure what block you have but once you remove the head you'll know which bolts to get..Some of the LS blocks use 8 long and 2 shorts for the 9 & 10 bolts holes while the newer ones used all the same length shorter bolts.

G Atsma

If it's the 2000 block he mentions in the first post, he'll need the early set (8 long/2 short per head)

Ncookiii

I ordered the ARP-134-3609. It seemed to be the one I need, and it does have the two shorter bolts.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

That's right I should have scrolled back up and read that..Lol

862's had me thinking early block but then again head castings dosen't necessarily mean it's on a 5.3 either.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

If it were me I'd run the ARP and get away from the TTY stuff. At least the ARP hardware is reusable.

Ncookiii

I agree, I went that route. I'm waiting for the bolts to arrive. In the mean time I'll replace my tie rod ends, bleed brakes and install my TCC switch. Which all needed done anyway.

Mr. Black

Do you have any pictures of you Land Cruiser? what model? FJ60?

Ncookiii

I do, I'll post a couple. It's an 88FJ62.

Ncookiii

I used an Advanced Adapter product, I Rebuilt the transfer case.
​​​​​​I also did some Zinc plating on the bolts.

Mr. Black

Holy cow that thing is CLEAN!

Are you going to run power steering?

I had a 77 FJ40 for 15 years with a big block chevy in it. I kind of miss it sometimes but not the gas mileage lol.

Ncookiii

Thanks, it has stock power steering. Where it sits now is I'm ready to take it to the muffler shop (after I replace the head gaskets and bolts) and then a few more electrical connections having to do with integrating the stock 4WD transfer case. I'll probably be lurking around the forums for that too. I'm hoping it's all buttoned up for Elk hunting. Winter I'll complete the interior and next year the body. Your FJ40 is getting rare, but some places are going through them and putting 100k price tags on them.