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Fresh ls swap no start

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Old 07-14-2024, 11:33 AM
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Default Fresh ls swap no start

Hey guys so I just put a 2000 5.3 into my wrangler. I used a standalone harness with a flashed stock ecu. It has new coils new sensors. I’m getting a crank no start, but it wants to start. When cranking my starter makes a clicking noise and my positive cable gets hot. And it the factory cable from the truck. I have more grounds the planet earth her self on it. It’s all wired up properly. It’s getting the right amount of fuel. It’s will fire off but die like it has no power. And sometimes will backfire any help would be awesome
Old 07-14-2024, 12:25 PM
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How big is the positive cable?

I'd check to make sure the Fuel Pump stays on while it's starting. That and the constant power vs ignition 12v wires are getting the proper power. It's very easily overlooked.
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Old 07-14-2024, 02:04 PM
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Check the two side to side connections for the ignition coils. Maybe left side ignition is firing for the right side.

Rick
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Old 07-14-2024, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
How big is the positive cable?

I'd check to make sure the Fuel Pump stays on while it's starting. That and the constant power vs ignition 12v wires are getting the proper power. It's very easily overlooked.

it does have a constant 12v and is running during cranking and shortly there after I’m also running stock positive cable from the truck I pulled the motor out of.


Old 07-14-2024, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by B52bombardier1
Check the two side to side connections for the ignition coils. Maybe left side ignition is firing for the right side.

Rick
I did and they are firing the correct sides
Old 07-14-2024, 06:05 PM
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One would hope the VATS was turned off in the tune, as well as the table for the Neutral Safety Switch set correctly if you're not using the PRINDLE Switch.

Is it actually turning over or the starter just clicks?
Old 07-14-2024, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
One would hope the VATS was turned off in the tune, as well as the table for the Neutral Safety Switch set correctly if you're not using the PRINDLE Switch.

Is it actually turning over or the starter just clicks?
i had it turned off and everything by a guy who has done them quite frequently. And I don’t really know what the prindle switch is. I do however have the nss hooked up to steady ground just to start. it is cranking and firing off. But only cycles for a couple cylinders then dies. Starter I think is making a clicking noise while it’s cranking.
Old 07-14-2024, 08:04 PM
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Check the Fuel Pressure when cranking? The VATS still on will do exactly that, hit a cyl or two then die.

PRINDLE Switch is the big black switch around the linkage on the Auto Transmissions.

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Old 07-14-2024, 08:07 PM
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Firing up and dying right away points to vats not being disabled.
of your battery cable is getting hot then there’s too much resistance. Make sure all the cables and bolts are tight. If you can twist those post connectors they aren’t tight enough.
Old 07-14-2024, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetter
Firing up and dying right away points to vats not being disabled.


This...



And get rid of that Mickey Mouse batt cable setup your running, get some new cables with good ends on them.
Old 07-14-2024, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CattleAc
This...



And get rid of that Mickey Mouse batt cable setup your running, get some new cables with good ends on them.
I don’t have a lot of electrical ran. This is just to start it. I still have lights and everything so wiring is what it is right now. As to cables and connections. Everything is brand new. Nothing loose
Old 07-14-2024, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetter
Firing up and dying right away points to vats not being disabled.
of your battery cable is getting hot then there’s too much resistance. Make sure all the cables and bolts are tight. If you can twist those post connectors they aren’t tight enough.
could it possibly be the starter making it hot? Like it’s working properly but something is wrong with it to cause it to get hot?
Old 07-15-2024, 02:08 AM
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Please tell me the inside of those battery post connectors are not painted like the outside.
Old 07-15-2024, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Dustincamp
could it possibly be the starter making it hot? Like it’s working properly but something is wrong with it to cause it to get hot?
unlikely.
the car is starting so the starter is working.
if the cables are getting hot, they are being over loaded or have resistance. is it the cables or the connectors that are hot? can you grab those clamp on connectors on the battery and rotate them? if you can that is a problem.
you are getting good answers but they dont seem to be what you want.
Old 07-15-2024, 05:11 PM
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3 of us said VATS...not like we haven't seen it before.
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Old 07-18-2024, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
3 of us said VATS...not like we haven't seen it before.
just hooked up my ecu to tuner pro and everything today. Vats is inactive. Now it’s turning over and barley firing shuts right off

I figured out the cables getting hot. That’s fixed.
Old 07-18-2024, 08:09 PM
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How is your fuel pump wired?
Old 07-19-2024, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
How is your fuel pump wired?

it was wired into the fuel pump relay. But I took that away and just went constant 12 v from batt
Old 07-19-2024, 09:40 AM
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use carb cleaner or starting fluid to get it fired off and use it to keep it running for a few seconds. if that works you can rule out fuel and move on to spark.
Old 07-19-2024, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Dustincamp
it was wired into the fuel pump relay. But I took that away and just went constant 12 v from batt
Have it on a switch I take it? I hope there's a fuse in there on the 12v side somewhere..

Your first post says new sensors. Unless GM Sensors most are garbage, if you have some aftermarket Crank Sensor that might be the issue.
Have you tried scanning for any codes?

Last edited by the_merv; 07-19-2024 at 07:21 PM.


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