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it was wired into the fuel pump relay. But I took that away and just went constant 12 v from batt
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Having seen the PICTURE of your " Battery Wiring" I think you'd have better luck paying a Plumber to do your wiring.
Seriously tho: You need to start at the VERY LEAST by properly crimping and heat shrinking ALL your battery, starter and ground terminals.
Yea, after reading that part about running the fuel pump direct wired with no Relay I'm question the whole "it's wired properly" part in the first post.
Have it on a switch I take it? I hope there's a fuse in there on the 12v side somewhere..
Your first post says new sensors. Unless GM Sensors most are garbage, if you have some aftermarket Crank Sensor that might be the issue.
Have you tried scanning for any codes?
no codes pop. And yes everything is ran into a fuse. Or a relay. I temporarily hard wired the fuel pump to make sure it was staying constant during crank. All sensors are gm. I even went the the scrapyard and pulled 5 crank 5 cam and 5 maf sensors. I also bought all new from oriley. All my wiring may look nasty but most of it isn’t hooked up and it’s mostly all for lights. Been trying different stuff to get turn signals and what not. Buuuuut. My ecu power is a clean source and clean switch constant on. My starter is ran to a 150 amp breaker then to my battery. It’s a marine ignition breaker at that. I have more grounds the earth herself. All wiring has been tested and all grounds have been ohmed out. I’ll post my tune tomorrow.
Only thing at this point is making sure the constant power stuff is constant and the key-on ignition power stuff is right, which has been asked already.
Can't really give much advice from here on the internet unless I was there with my multimeter.
One would hope the VATS was turned off in the tune, as well as the table for the Neutral Safety Switch set correctly if you're not using the PRINDLE Switch.
Here is your current tune:
From my experience here is what it needs to be:
Originally Posted by Dustincamp
i had it turned off and everything by a guy who has done them quite frequently. And I don’t really know what the prindle switch is. I do however have the nss hooked up to steady ground just to start. it is cranking and firing off. But only cycles for a couple cylinders then dies. Starter I think is making a clicking noise while it’s cranking.
That is on the vehicle, that will turn the starter all day if you have the N/S Switch on the vehicle grounded. The computer needs the right setting to actually start. From my understanding if you don't have it set to "None" it will not start, that is a secondary catch in the programming.
You can do PN Only, but that requires a 12v signal to one of the pins pretty much telling the Computer it's in Park or Neutral. This case here I'd set it to "None" and try it.
What is your operating system number? And just curious, what PCM type? Are you using Tuner Pro RT to edit the tune and PCM Hammer to write it? If yes to any of this, which XDF are you using to edit the tune?
doesnt seem to have worked. i am going to recharge my battery then try something diffrent, like hook my n/s ground up to something better. i know i dont have a park switch hooked up. waiting to get some other wiring worked out. here is my updated file. im not sure if i did it correctly either
i have a p01, OS is 12202088 im using tunerpro and pcm hammer. it wont let me upload the xdf here... but when i first did all of this i did have to change my OS number from 9379910 to the current one just so i could find an xdf for it
I'm seeing it with my HP Tuners. Yup looks like you have it off. How many wires you have in your harness to the PCM that are pink 12v ignition and orange constant 12v?
[QUOTE=the_merv;20566899]I'm seeing it with my HP Tuners. Yup looks like you have it off. How many wires you have in your harness to the PCM that are pink 12v ignition and orange
im waiting for the sun to go down a little to finish pinning out everything.
What do you need for a transmission? I'm sending you two different 4L60E transmission possibilities and both work well in my 5.3 liter El Camino and Catalina. You have nothing to lose trying these BIN files. All checksums are good. These are 650 RPM, 26 inch tire height, 2.73 gears in the differential files and all appropriate codes and equipment items are turned off in the tune. You should see no erroneous oddball check engine lights with either of these.
This will get you something that will start and if you need to edit them in some way, I can send you the XDF.
07-19-2024, 05:57 PM
