Exactly, fixed many of them. Cost more to fix that garbage than it does to initially buy it.

 

What do you suggest?

 

I am actually getting 12v at the injectors, so far I had tested only 2 of them. I wasn't getting 12v before because I was probing from an opening at the back of the injector connector, but that wasnt touching the actually pin. Measuring at the inject pin itself did read 12v.

 

Pull the harness, unwrap and test.
Replace the fuse box.
We see that stuff very often.
A lot of it is the Ho Chi Min harness quality.
We also see a lot of the jury-rigged stuff with multiple butt splices, different color/gauge wires in a single run.

 

Thanks. Any recommendation on a fuse box?
Would some like this do?

 

IMHO, yes you had at least a temporary short; worse, the fuse did not blow, but instead overheated and belted itself and the fuse holder.
Yes, that Amazon fuse box should be fine.
However it is strange that you have a large black wire going to the now-melted fuse holder. Is this a different power source? And why is it black (the color for ground)?

 

That black wire is a power wire from the battery going to two circuits (PCM battery constant, and ALDL constant). I ran out of red wires at all. The other red power wire comes from a relay for keyon power source.

 

In that case make sure your replacement fuse holder allows two separate feed circuits; many only support one.
And get some more red wire.

 

Performed the tests below

- checked voltage at all the injectors pink wires at the connector : 12v on all
- Did a noid light test: all injectors did light up
- ohm between injector pins: 13.5-14.2 ohms

At the fuse box, with the car running, I see 14.05v on those two circuits with battery constant power source, but 13.7v on the injectors power wires, and those circuits that get key on power through the relay. Not sure if this is normal. Still running like crap, and p0200 won't go away.

where else should look?

 

- checked for short to ground between pcm control wire and ground: All good
- continuity between injector and pcm control wires: all good.

Any suggestions on where to look at this point?

 

Looking back at the fried panel, I think the "failure" was a period of time in the making, and the panel "committed suicide" about the time you did the tests. Checking voltage didn't cause this.
That pregnant red wire has been hot for some time.
As I mentioned, take the harness out and trace that red wire circuit thru the entire length. BOTH sides of the fuse.
An instant dead short should pop the fuse, not melt it.
We've seen way too many of the cheapo fuse panels melt due to poor contact w/ the fuse blades, cheap fuses melt, and bad wire crimps creating havoc, to use the cheapo parts.

 

I also do think that is the case, I just happen to see it then. That Red wire seen at the fuse box comes from a relay, and provide power to those circuit needing power on Key on. The other power wire (Black wire at the fuse box) is a power wire that comes straight from the battery +
for the 2 circuits needing constant battery+. Is this power wire to the battery that you suggested I trace down ?





Thanks

 

I would inspect all wiring involved with fuse 6.
Have you pulled the relay and looked at the base/pins?
Have you talked to the guy that made the harness?

 

Will inspect the relay and check the wiring to it. Fuse 6 and 5 which are for the INJ share the same power source, the red wire coming in from relay.

The guy who made the harness can't help much. He's suggesting to return the harness for him to fix. Lol.

 

Wired a new fused box to at least clean that up. P0200 would not go away. Really need this resolved so I can drive as this is my daily.

 

3rd and final suggestion.
PULL the harness, unwrap it and find the problem.

 

That's why I haven't said anything. Seems the term "find the problem" goes over this guy's head.

Car burns down then problem solved.

 

Just quoting my post since the guy can do half of what I said and doesn't want to listen to several of us who said the same as my last bit.

Clearly we don't know what we are doing.

Also fwiw... don't hack mod your daily driver.

 

Dude, I do appreciate the help, but please relax a bit, you're all over the place. No need to be harsh.
I already told you that i did strip the wiring and didnt find an issue there.

 

Says the guy that made 2 threads about the same thing.

Melted fuse and a melted fuse box but no problem with the wiring.. riiiight. You just don't know what you're looking at, or didn't do it. As I said, I'll believe you when you post a picture of that wiring harness stripped apart.

You keep having a Circuit code, for a reason. Some intuitive thought should be kicking in by now.