5.3 LS swap- Rpm dropping
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 179
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Says the guy that made 2 threads about the same thing.
Melted fuse and a melted fuse box but no problem with the wiring.. riiiight. You just don't know what you're looking at, or didn't do it. As I said, I'll believe you when you post a picture of that wiring harness stripped apart.
You keep having a Circuit code, for a reason. Some intuitive thought should be kicking in by now.
Melted fuse and a melted fuse box but no problem with the wiring.. riiiight. You just don't know what you're looking at, or didn't do it. As I said, I'll believe you when you post a picture of that wiring harness stripped apart.
You keep having a Circuit code, for a reason. Some intuitive thought should be kicking in by now.
You posted here with a car problem, and are wanting help. We are giving the help from YEARS of experience.
You clearly don't want the help, and have a car with issues so I don't think I'm the one with problem(s) here. Keep in mind none of us have to help you, and you still have car problems.
I genuinely don't want to see a car burn down over something that is a simple fix but maybe that's too much.
Let us know if and when you figure it out. We'll be here.
You clearly don't want the help, and have a car with issues so I don't think I'm the one with problem(s) here. Keep in mind none of us have to help you, and you still have car problems.
I genuinely don't want to see a car burn down over something that is a simple fix but maybe that's too much.
Let us know if and when you figure it out. We'll be here.
Last edited by the_merv; Mar 31, 2025 at 07:55 AM.
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Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Central Cal.
So CHILL YOURSELF and do exactly what he asks of you, and send pics of the stripped harness so HE can help further if needed.
SMH......
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
I would suggest precuring what I call a "Fuse Amp Meter" which is a small device which you plug into the fuse box in place of the fuse to measure how much current (Amps) are flowing that particular fuse.
Example, if you plug it in place of a e.g. 15AMP fuse and it shows there is a 14.5 Amp draw, there is likely something seriously wrong, yet the fuse would never blow. (Might get hot and melt things though.)
Correct me if I'm missing something, but other than the electric fans and the fuel pump, nothing related to a typical engine will use more than 10 Amps, maybe even just 5 Amps.
I apologize that Merv is being a bit harsh, but after nearly 21,000 posts I'm sure his patience is getting thin and he genuinely wants to help and prevent a fire in your car.
Example, if you plug it in place of a e.g. 15AMP fuse and it shows there is a 14.5 Amp draw, there is likely something seriously wrong, yet the fuse would never blow. (Might get hot and melt things though.)
Correct me if I'm missing something, but other than the electric fans and the fuel pump, nothing related to a typical engine will use more than 10 Amps, maybe even just 5 Amps.
I apologize that Merv is being a bit harsh, but after nearly 21,000 posts I'm sure his patience is getting thin and he genuinely wants to help and prevent a fire in your car.
The Fuse being melted like that is a slow high-amp load that as you mentioned is under the limit of the Fuse. High amps + time = heat enough to melt things.
There is a main power wire from that Fuse grounded to something in the Harness. That is why there's no 12v at the Injectors, anywhere. Or continuity to that point also. That is where the Harness has to be taken apart and the problem found.
I'm just going off of what this guy is telling us. Until I'm proven wrong I don't believe the guy has completely taken apart the Harness and traced that wire out of the Fuse Box through whatever splices exist to all 8 Injectors. That's what you have to do when you have this type of problem and when you buy cheap home-made stuff. Absolutely no clue how it's built until you get into it. Plenty of schematics out there to find if he wants to build it back correctly. Have to find what's wrong first.
Trace splices and see where they all go. One could have come loose and the wire is grounding on something. Anything is possible here but if the problem still exists after he "checked the wiring"... I call BS.
He calls it "harsh" I'm just putting him on the spot. He wants our time to help him well take our advice and put time in on your end to troubleshoot what's going on here so we can eliminate possible problems off the list.
Just about all the factory Gen III LS stuff from the factory had the Injectors and Coils wired in two Banks (Drivers/Passengers) powered with a 15A Fuse for each side.
From what he's told us already this harness he has all Injectors are on one power wire and that's the current problem, no power to the Injectors. That's not the factory spec but will work right if it's wired right. Clearly something is wrong.
There is a main power wire from that Fuse grounded to something in the Harness. That is why there's no 12v at the Injectors, anywhere. Or continuity to that point also. That is where the Harness has to be taken apart and the problem found.
I'm just going off of what this guy is telling us. Until I'm proven wrong I don't believe the guy has completely taken apart the Harness and traced that wire out of the Fuse Box through whatever splices exist to all 8 Injectors. That's what you have to do when you have this type of problem and when you buy cheap home-made stuff. Absolutely no clue how it's built until you get into it. Plenty of schematics out there to find if he wants to build it back correctly. Have to find what's wrong first.
Trace splices and see where they all go. One could have come loose and the wire is grounding on something. Anything is possible here but if the problem still exists after he "checked the wiring"... I call BS.
He calls it "harsh" I'm just putting him on the spot. He wants our time to help him well take our advice and put time in on your end to troubleshoot what's going on here so we can eliminate possible problems off the list.
From what he's told us already this harness he has all Injectors are on one power wire and that's the current problem, no power to the Injectors. That's not the factory spec but will work right if it's wired right. Clearly something is wrong.
Last edited by the_merv; Mar 31, 2025 at 02:14 PM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2024
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The Fuse being melted like that is a slow high-amp load that as you mentioned is under the limit of the Fuse. High amps + time = heat enough to melt things.
There is a main power wire from that Fuse grounded to something in the Harness. That is why there's no 12v at the Injectors, anywhere. Or continuity to that point also. That is where the Harness has to be taken apart and the problem found.
I'm just going off of what this guy is telling us. Until I'm proven wrong I don't believe the guy has completely taken apart the Harness and traced that wire out of the Fuse Box through whatever splices exist to all 8 Injectors. That's what you have to do when you have this type of problem and when you buy cheap home-made stuff. Absolutely no clue how it's built until you get into it. Plenty of schematics out there to find if he wants to build it back correctly. Have to find what's wrong first.
Trace splices and see where they all go. One could have come loose and the wire is grounding on something. Anything is possible here but if the problem still exists after he "checked the wiring"... I call BS.
He calls it "harsh" I'm just putting him on the spot. He wants our time to help him well take our advice and put time in on your end to troubleshoot what's going on here so we can eliminate possible problems off the list.
Just about all the factory Gen III LS stuff from the factory had the Injectors and Coils wired in two Banks (Drivers/Passengers) powered with a 15A Fuse for each side.
From what he's told us already this harness he has all Injectors are on one power wire and that's the current problem, no power to the Injectors. That's not the factory spec but will work right if it's wired right. Clearly something is wrong.
There is a main power wire from that Fuse grounded to something in the Harness. That is why there's no 12v at the Injectors, anywhere. Or continuity to that point also. That is where the Harness has to be taken apart and the problem found.
I'm just going off of what this guy is telling us. Until I'm proven wrong I don't believe the guy has completely taken apart the Harness and traced that wire out of the Fuse Box through whatever splices exist to all 8 Injectors. That's what you have to do when you have this type of problem and when you buy cheap home-made stuff. Absolutely no clue how it's built until you get into it. Plenty of schematics out there to find if he wants to build it back correctly. Have to find what's wrong first.
Trace splices and see where they all go. One could have come loose and the wire is grounding on something. Anything is possible here but if the problem still exists after he "checked the wiring"... I call BS.
He calls it "harsh" I'm just putting him on the spot. He wants our time to help him well take our advice and put time in on your end to troubleshoot what's going on here so we can eliminate possible problems off the list.
Just about all the factory Gen III LS stuff from the factory had the Injectors and Coils wired in two Banks (Drivers/Passengers) powered with a 15A Fuse for each side.
From what he's told us already this harness he has all Injectors are on one power wire and that's the current problem, no power to the Injectors. That's not the factory spec but will work right if it's wired right. Clearly something is wrong.
In my post #29 and #30, I did correct myself regarding my statement of not getting 12v at the injector power wires. I am getting power at the injectors. Did other test and they all came back okay.
You had suggested to strip the harness, before suggesting to run any test first, and i still did it. I am away for a few days so i cant send images.
The bad Fuse box did have the banks separated with a 15amp Fuse on each side, in one of my post (#32) I did illustrate that showing all the fuse #s and what they were. That old Fuse box has been replaced.
I have another computer, just need programming, at this point will throw that in and go from there.
Thanks all
Last edited by Tma120; Mar 31, 2025 at 07:47 PM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 179
Likes: 12
I truelly appreciate everyone inputs on here, and I do not put a ? On anyone's knowledge on here. I respect and appreciate everyone.
In my post #29 and #30, I did correct myself regarding my statement of not getting 12v at the injector power wires. I am getting power at the injectors. Did other test and they all came back okay.
You had suggested to strip the harness, before suggesting to run any test first, and i still did it. I am away for a few days so i cant send images.
The bad Fuse box did have the banks separated with a 15amp Fuse on each side, in one of my post (#32) I did illustrate that showing all the fuse #s and what they were. That old Fuse box has been replaced.
I have another computer, just need programming, at this point will throw that in and go from there.
Thanks all
In my post #29 and #30, I did correct myself regarding my statement of not getting 12v at the injector power wires. I am getting power at the injectors. Did other test and they all came back okay.
You had suggested to strip the harness, before suggesting to run any test first, and i still did it. I am away for a few days so i cant send images.
The bad Fuse box did have the banks separated with a 15amp Fuse on each side, in one of my post (#32) I did illustrate that showing all the fuse #s and what they were. That old Fuse box has been replaced.
I have another computer, just need programming, at this point will throw that in and go from there.
Thanks all
Thank you all for your inputs.
