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I'm finishing up my 99 Z28 LS3 Magnacharger Build and every bit of me wondered what it would have been like to turbo it instead. I knew Turbos were more effective but I really wanted that Supercharger wine. I haven't even cranked the Maggie Built Z28 and the bug has been itching me to buy another 4th Gen F-Body and build an appropriate LS and TT ... So I purchased me a car to restore (my 99 Z28 has also been heavily restored) ... a beat up used V6 that has seen better days waiting for alittle bit of magic. (PICS at bottom of post.)
I know most of ya'll wouldnt do a V6 to LS swap but there are a few reasons I'm doing this.
- I had the opportunity to attempt this back when I was in college but due to finances the project flopped and I had to sell the car. It also happened to be a Firebird
- Just about everything on my 99 Z28 drivetrain wise is non-factory.
- I want a project car to restore and build from the ground up (again)
- Money wasn't an object
I have the title and keys. I am going to tow it (it doesn't run) on Monday. Im not sure if I should start with the body and interior or if I should start with the LS Swap and TT. Thoughts?
Additionally, what motor choice would you go with?
Iron Block 5.3L
Aluminum Block 5.3L
LQ4
LS3
I know even the 5.3 will make a ton of power without much investment to the motor, but I also want to try to shave weight off the front end to keep the car as nimble as possible.
For certain I am relocating the battery to the hatch, going carbon fiber hood, tubular everything up front.
For the TT Kit, I want to save the A/C so I'm probably going with a APS TT Kit.
Last edited by Need4Camaro; Apr 5, 2025 at 09:25 PM.
If you start with the body, you will scrape it up working on the mechanicals. It might not be a bad idea to gut the interior first, but I would not put anything back together until the powertrain is sorted. Between vac/boost hoses and various wiring the build will be easier with the interior mostly bare.
If you start with the body, you will scrape it up working on the mechanicals. It might not be a bad idea to gut the interior first, but I would not put anything back together until the powertrain is sorted. Between vac/boost hoses and various wiring the build will be easier with the interior mostly bare.
Whichever one you can get in aluminum at a reasonable price. The turbo kit will add back the weight saved over an iron block, so it would really be front heavy with iron and a turbo. Any LS block can put down more power than you will ever use on the street, and if you go auto a stall converter will negate any perceived lack of off idle torque from whatever displacement you use.
It was a long struggle to decide between a 5.3L or 6.2L LS3 ... From all of the research I have done, it appears that both would meet my goals. The 5.3L would need a bit more boost and I would in some way need to compensate for the low end of the torque curve. The 6.2L from what I've been told wouldn't be as integral at higher ranges after the 800 HP mark as the 5.3 would, but there was no replacement for displacement as the 6.2 would have alot more low end to get me from a dig and make the torque curve more smooth.
I ended up... ...buying a Aluminum 5.3L stroked to a 383 Forged Stroker, Forged Crank, Rods and Pistons.
They're building her right now for me, can't wait for the sweetness to begin.
btw @gametech I used to live in Stockbridge / McDonough area :p
It was a long struggle to decide between a 5.3L or 6.2L LS3 ... From all of the research I have done, it appears that both would meet my goals. The 5.3L would need a bit more boost and I would in some way need to compensate for the low end of the torque curve. The 6.2L from what I've been told wouldn't be as integral at higher ranges after the 800 HP mark as the 5.3 would, but there was no replacement for displacement as the 6.2 would have alot more low end to get me from a dig and make the torque curve more smooth.
I ended up... ...buying a Aluminum 5.3L stroked to a 383 Forged Stroker, Forged Crank, Rods and Pistons.
They're building her right now for me, can't wait for the sweetness to begin.
btw @gametech I used to live in Stockbridge / McDonough area :p
675 is too busy for high speed runs now, and they put a fedex distribution facility on Grant road, so no more 1/4 mile runs before the train tracks. This area is becoming less fun as the years go by.
675 is too busy for high speed runs now, and they put a fedex distribution facility on Grant road, so no more 1/4 mile runs before the train tracks. This area is becoming less fun as the years go by.
I know we're veering off topic but ATL in general has become a less fun place to drive. 6 million people with the infrastructure that was mostly designed in the 80's. I ended up moving to Texas, not as beautiful but its a heck of a lot easier getting around here.
I know we're veering off topic but ATL in general has become a less fun place to drive. 6 million people with the infrastructure that was mostly designed in the 80's. I ended up moving to Texas, not as beautiful but its a heck of a lot easier getting around here.
All depends on where you are. The Katy section of I10 west of houston is the widest highway in the world and still packed bumper to bumper. I used to do a lot of work in east and south texas.
If you start with the body, you will scrape it up working on the mechanicals. It might not be a bad idea to gut the interior first, but I would not put anything back together until the powertrain is sorted. Between vac/boost hoses and various wiring the build will be easier with the interior mostly bare.
To me it looks like the interior need gutted anyway. yowza that thing is rough, is there any interior panel that isn't broken
As long as the chassis is solid, you can tear into that car to turn it into whatever you want without feeling bad. Anything is better than it is now!
To me it looks like the interior need gutted anyway. yowza that thing is rough, is there any interior panel that isn't broken
As long as the chassis is solid, you can tear into that car to turn it into whatever you want without feeling bad. Anything is better than it is now!
Yeah, I actually have already purchased many of the interior components. Got lucky and found someone parting out a TransAm and got the dashboard, door panels with power window buttons, sail panels, all plastic pieces for $200. I'm going to have the dashboard both upper and lower leather wrapped. I had this done on my 99 Z28 and it looks fantastic.
Anyway, I need to figure out what I'm going to do for a Transmission.
I don't know if I want to remain auto and go TCI with the ability to autoshift, or if I'm going to go 6 speed. I've never owned a manual car before and I kind of want that ability to shift to the gear I want, but then there is the realization that an auto will always shift faster than I can. But a 6 speed seems so much fun to drive, but then again a auto stick can be too.
Unless you are going to spend a lot of time on road courses or twisty mountain roads, just go auto. For every few minutes you wish you were rowing your own gears there are likely to be hours you are glad you are not. I used to go to the Pigeon Forge hotrod run occasionally, and the fun of a stick shift on the tail of the dragon quickly wore off while stuck in town traffic working a clutch. Of course cost is also a factor. You can build a 4l80 a lot cheaper than you can get a stick to hold big turbo power reliably. On that subject, I would not personally go to the labor of installing a TCI product if it were free, but that is just my opinion.
They built my 383 off of a Gen 3 Iron Block 5.3L instead of Aluminum Block like I requested. Not very happy about it but they did bring up some concerns....
They are advising me that an aluminum block will not hold up to my power goals (between 800 - 1,000 RWHP) ... advising that the block itself will fail.
Are they correct and should I go Iron? main issue with Iron is the weight (handling) + turbo kit.
Last edited by Need4Camaro; Apr 29, 2025 at 01:47 PM.
They built my 383 off of a Gen 3 Iron Block 5.3L instead of Aluminum Block like I requested. Not very happy about it but they did bring up some concerns....
They are advising me that an aluminum block will not hold up to my power goals (between 800 - 1,000 RWHP) ... advising that the block itself will fail.
Are they correct and should I go Iron? main issue with Iron is the weight (handling) + turbo kit.
Read through the forced induction section of this site, the yellowbullet forums, or anywhere else. Then watch dyno vids on youtube. Your builder is full of ****. It sounds like they are just trying to cheap out and charge you for a cheaper and more readily available iron block. You will lift the heads before ANY ls based block will fail. Look up SBE records and see what the guys running not just stock blocks, but entire stock bottom ends are running.
I have an aluminum LH6 5.3 block in my car. It is the STRONGEST factory block, period. Extremely thick cylinder walls and siamesed bores make it perfect for boost. Unless you can find one of the mega rare ( and mega heavy ) 4.8/5.3/6.0 iron blocks that was made as a 4.8/5.3, you won't come close to having the same cylinder strength as an LH6.
I was feeling the same in my gut, I went ahead and canceled the order. They are not wanting to refund me advising that the contract states that all deposits are non-refundable, however; the contract I signed also clearly requests an aluminum block motor in the parts list.
Yup sounds like a bunch of dumbshits who just want money. You ordered an aluminum block and they built it out of iron because it was cheaper for them to find so they can pocket money.
Bank should be easy, it's not what you ordered just make sure you have everything documented.
I was feeling the same in my gut, I went ahead and canceled the order. They are not wanting to refund me advising that the contract states that all deposits are non-refundable, however; the contract I signed also clearly requests an aluminum block motor in the parts list.
I'm going through my bank for the refund.
Breach of contract. End of story, tough luck to them. After that's dealt with, leave a bad review.
I went ahead and purchased a long block LS3. I am going to divide the project into two stages since this is going to be rather big.
Stage 1: Get the car running on a Heads / Cam stock cube LS3. Drive it for awhile and make sure everything is sound.
Stage 2: Twin Turbo. I am wondering if I can get away with just gapping the piston rings and running E85 / Meth (thoughts?) or if I should tear down and go forged 408 or 416?
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Anyway I have a question.
I want to go Double Roller timing chain. I did this on my previous LS3 swap but I forgot what I had to do for it to work in a F-Body. Do I need to change the Timing Chain Cover and if so which one do I need to use? Currently I was going to go with a LS1 Timing Chain Cover and relocate the camshaft sensor to the rear and use a 58x-24x Lingenfelter Converter Box. Or should I just convert to 24x instead? Do I need to use a different Timing Chain Cover? I forgot.
Double Roller Timing Chain is not needed at all with an LS Engine...LS2 Billet Timing Chain works fine.
I absolutely would convert that LS3 to a 24X Crank and use a 1X Cam Gear with the Cam Sensor in the Front Cover. 0411 PCM and Cable Throttle Body. All the Gauges will still work in the car just wire everything in right. Plenty of 4-bolt cable Throttle Bodies out there.
Double Roller Timing Chain is not needed at all with an LS Engine...LS2 Billet Timing Chain works fine.
I absolutely would convert that LS3 to a 24X Crank and use a 1X Cam Gear with the Cam Sensor in the Front Cover. 0411 PCM and Cable Throttle Body. All the Gauges will still work in the car just wire everything in right. Plenty of 4-bolt cable Throttle Bodies out there.
98 is the weird year though (even for the V6 cars) - probably need 99+ wiring and gauge cluster if I'm not mistaken?
Not that much more work since the entire thing is being gutted anyway.
98 Firebird V6 to Twin Turbo LS 
