weld up header kits
If you decide to go stainless, check out Stainless Works (they are a sponsor here).
John Parsons
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Andy1
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like here:
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...hreadid=270765
If you have the stock suspension and firewall in tact, it will be difficult if not impossible to do LT's. I couldn't get a 3" pipe in between the tranny/motor and frame-rail(on the passenger side), let alone 4 1.75" tubes together - which is why my headers have a 2.5" collector.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...2Acollector%2A
page 11 - all stainless elbows, reducers, . they are in "pipe" size but 1 1/2 pipe is 1 7/8 o.d.
they are way cheaper than tube elbows (they also have them). schedule 10 is the thinner, but its still about .109 thick. $4.96 for a stainless elbow is pretty cheap. Also being a little thicker its not as prone to cracking from heat and stress.
Last edited by pwrtrip75; Jan 12, 2005 at 03:46 PM.
If you have the stock suspension and firewall in tact, it will be difficult if not impossible to do LT's. I couldn't get a 3" pipe in between the tranny/motor and frame-rail(on the passenger side), let alone 4 1.75" tubes together - which is why my headers have a 2.5" collector.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...2Acollector%2A
Oldnovaguy - This particular customer had some off-brand mounts that we ended up using. I had trouble with the S&P mounts - not wanting to work - on this car... However - after I first built the headers, I later tweaked them to work around S&P mounts as well. Knowing most people are going to use them, or that style mount. That was on an engine stand though.. I'm pretty sure that the mounts I used place the motor very close if not in the exact spot the S&P ones would have.
Someone will just have to try them.
I would take them back if they didn't work of course. 






