Best spot on engine to check for angle?
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I'm putting an LS1/M6 in my '56 Nomad which has a custom front frame clip to accept C4 Corvette suspension. I have built the engine mounts and am now fitting the engine/trans.
What is the best place to check the angle for the 4.5 degrees that I need? I started by setting my angle finder on the machined surface where the shifter bolts to the trans. When I check it on the top ridge of the valve cover, the two measurements are off by a few degrees. I also notice when setting the angle finder on the upper edge of the valve cover that the angle is different depending on whether you check it towards the front of the engine or towards the rear. When I have the shifter pa at 4.5 degrees, the valve cover reads about 8 degrees, and the oil pan reads about 1 degree.
So which is the best place to check this?
What is the best place to check the angle for the 4.5 degrees that I need? I started by setting my angle finder on the machined surface where the shifter bolts to the trans. When I check it on the top ridge of the valve cover, the two measurements are off by a few degrees. I also notice when setting the angle finder on the upper edge of the valve cover that the angle is different depending on whether you check it towards the front of the engine or towards the rear. When I have the shifter pa at 4.5 degrees, the valve cover reads about 8 degrees, and the oil pan reads about 1 degree.
So which is the best place to check this?
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Measure the height at the middle of the crank pulley bolt and at the center of the output shaft on the trans. Subtract the two measurements. Given the angle you are looking for is 4.5 degrees, the sin of 4.5 is 0.0785, the length of an LS1 with an A4 trans mounted is 57 inches. Multiply (0.0785 x 57) and you get just less than 4.5 inches. If the difference in the height of the crank pulley over the height of the trans output shaft is at or less than 4.5 inches then you are within your 4.5 degree target.
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You should be looking for 4 degrees max at the output spline of your trans. put the angle finder their on trans casting next to the spline shaft. best is th tighten up all mounts for the final measurement but for a rugh in measurement, this is the best way. Dont use 4.5 degreees you will have vibrations and were out your u joints sooner. you should target 3 degrees. good luck
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Thanks for the replies, everyone.
72Chevelle, why do you say that I should keep the angle at no more than 3 degrees? The stock 56 setting was 4 degrees, (the old carbed small blocks had the carburetor pad machined 4 degrees forward, so that the carb would sit level when the engine was tilted back the correct amount) and the rear was tilted 4 degrees upwards. Since I am also installing a C4 rearend, as long as both the rear and the engine/trans are at the same angle so that the driveshaft is parallel, anything from about 3-5 degrees should work, I think.
Paul
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72Chevelle, why do you say that I should keep the angle at no more than 3 degrees? The stock 56 setting was 4 degrees, (the old carbed small blocks had the carburetor pad machined 4 degrees forward, so that the carb would sit level when the engine was tilted back the correct amount) and the rear was tilted 4 degrees upwards. Since I am also installing a C4 rearend, as long as both the rear and the engine/trans are at the same angle so that the driveshaft is parallel, anything from about 3-5 degrees should work, I think.
Paul
www.picturetrail.com/t0neking
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The maximum working angle of the u-joint should be about 3 1/2 degrees, theoretically the same angle at both joints is correct but a 1/4 degree difference will allow the roller bearings to rotate and not just sit there and brinell the u-joint cups. I have mine set at 2 1/2 degrees and 2 1/4 degrees and get ZERO vibration and a very smooth driveline. I think 5 degrees is a bit excessive.
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Originally Posted by Oscar Will
The maximum working angle of the u-joint should be about 3 1/2 degrees, theoretically the same angle at both joints is correct but a 1/4 degree difference will allow the roller bearings to rotate and not just sit there and brinell the u-joint cups. I have mine set at 2 1/2 degrees and 2 1/4 degrees and get ZERO vibration and a very smooth driveline. I think 5 degrees is a bit excessive.
good info guys!
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Originally Posted by Oscar Will
The maximum working angle of the u-joint should be about 3 1/2 degrees, theoretically the same angle at both joints is correct but a 1/4 degree difference will allow the roller bearings to rotate and not just sit there and brinell the u-joint cups. I have mine set at 2 1/2 degrees and 2 1/4 degrees and get ZERO vibration and a very smooth driveline. I think 5 degrees is a bit excessive.
Paul
www.picturetrail.com/t0neking
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I meant to say I haven't welded in the crossmember that I am using to "snub" the front part of the differential center section yet. This is how I am setting the pinion angle for the C4 rear.
Paul
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Paul
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Hey Paul its up to you. I said target 3 degrees. have you looked on any other sites for setting up your pinyon angle, or the trans? angles of the drive shaft is very important. glad to hear you are lisining to Oscar Will. I think he is on the money with his post. sounds like you are setting things up for going fast. better have the correct angle or you will be sorry.... here is one for you to check out.
http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0203sr_driving/
http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0203sr_driving/
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Originally Posted by 72ChevelleConv.LS1
Hey Paul its up to you. I said target 3 degrees. have you looked on any other sites for setting up your pinyon angle, or the trans? angles of the drive shaft is very important. glad to hear you are lisining to Oscar Will. I think he is on the money with his post. sounds like you are setting things up for going fast. better have the correct angle or you will be sorry.... here is one for you to check out.
http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0203sr_driving/
http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0203sr_driving/
Paul
www.picturetraill.com/t0neking