removing excess wiring
removing excess wiring I have an LS1/T56 from a 2002 camaro in a project car, running the stock LS loom modified to work.
I run cats,and an aftermarket fuel system, so no air, egr, cruise, p/s, evap can
Having bought HP tuners, and now able to edit the error codes. I plan to shed some of the excess wiring from the loom.
I plan to delete the following
BLU
23 25 28 32 33 46 65 68 70 79
RED
4 13 14 1718 30 34 36 37 42 43 45 47 54 64
I have 3 questions
am I planning to take any wires I should leave
are there more wires I should remove
I want to leave reverse lockout solenoid working. does that simply work from speed, or is that operates via a clutch signal? (I don't have clutch switch)
thanks for your help
I run cats,and an aftermarket fuel system, so no air, egr, cruise, p/s, evap can
Having bought HP tuners, and now able to edit the error codes. I plan to shed some of the excess wiring from the loom.
I plan to delete the following
BLU
23 25 28 32 33 46 65 68 70 79
RED
4 13 14 1718 30 34 36 37 42 43 45 47 54 64
I have 3 questions
am I planning to take any wires I should leave
are there more wires I should remove
I want to leave reverse lockout solenoid working. does that simply work from speed, or is that operates via a clutch signal? (I don't have clutch switch)
thanks for your help
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Simi VAlley,CA
I would also eliminate all auto trans and torque converter clutch circuits since you are using a T56
Blue-17,18,42,45,53 ( 42 is a low speed cooling fan relay control if you are going to use some other method to operate fans you could eliminate this one and 45 is the reference for the A/C pressure sensor, I don't think you'll need that either)
Red-2,6,8,48,51,63
I'll look at my info on that reverse lockout circuit and see what's involved there.
Blue-17,18,42,45,53 ( 42 is a low speed cooling fan relay control if you are going to use some other method to operate fans you could eliminate this one and 45 is the reference for the A/C pressure sensor, I don't think you'll need that either)
Red-2,6,8,48,51,63
I'll look at my info on that reverse lockout circuit and see what's involved there.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 800
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From: Simi VAlley,CA
The reverse lockout is operated from a clutch pedal position switch that inputs into C1-32 and the PCM operates (grounds) the reverse lockout through C2-44. If you want to use it you'll have to somehow get a normally closed switch in your clutch pedal linkage, the circuit is "hot" until you depress the clutch, when it goes "open" the PCM will ground the lockout solenoid. I can supply the schematic if you need it.
umm, my lockout doesnt use any clutch switches.
if the car is going 5mph or less... the lockout disengages....
the reason the lockout is there, is to keep you from shifting into reverse while moving.. on a 6->5 downshift for example.
if it disengaged everytime the clutch went in, you would always be able to shift into it...
the computer controls it based on speed.. if you're going slow enough, it lets you go into reverse.
mine works, and i dont have a clutch switch. ( 2002 stock M6..)
if the car is going 5mph or less... the lockout disengages....
the reason the lockout is there, is to keep you from shifting into reverse while moving.. on a 6->5 downshift for example.
if it disengaged everytime the clutch went in, you would always be able to shift into it...
the computer controls it based on speed.. if you're going slow enough, it lets you go into reverse.
mine works, and i dont have a clutch switch. ( 2002 stock M6..)
Gentlemen, thank you both for your input. It looks as though I can get even more of the wiring removed than I thought, which will make routing much easier.
regarding the reverse lock out, I have that wired at the moment from the ECU to the gearbox, but don't have any clutch connector, and have not yet found out if it is operational. I wil have to see. (never had the desire to try it out)
I am using the low fan relay, seems desirable to keep that in the circuit as its already there .
Another question, I have a "oil" from the ECU....... any idea if that is pressure, an oil light, or a low oil level warning lamp
Any schematics or other info would be great.
Steve
regarding the reverse lock out, I have that wired at the moment from the ECU to the gearbox, but don't have any clutch connector, and have not yet found out if it is operational. I wil have to see. (never had the desire to try it out)
I am using the low fan relay, seems desirable to keep that in the circuit as its already there .
Another question, I have a "oil" from the ECU....... any idea if that is pressure, an oil light, or a low oil level warning lamp
Any schematics or other info would be great.
Steve
Last edited by SPG; Mar 3, 2005 at 12:09 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 800
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From: Simi VAlley,CA
The low oil level switch signal from the oil pan sensor is in C1-70, that's one you already indicated that you will remove.....is that the one you are referring to?
Last edited by Oscar Will; Mar 3, 2005 at 03:14 PM. Reason: update
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yes
i'll remove it if its just an oil level warning light, but from the diagrams I have, I can;t tell if its oil level light, or oil pressure light
you got any pictures of thet LS1 Ford?
i'll remove it if its just an oil level warning light, but from the diagrams I have, I can;t tell if its oil level light, or oil pressure light
you got any pictures of thet LS1 Ford?
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Verdad Gallardo Damn, thats really sweet. but tell me, I get enough "hassle" from sticking a chevy in a replica of a ford Cobra, so how much hassle you gonna get from sticking a chevy in an original ford?
the oil level light. the pcm switches that to ground right, so I need to put a 12 feed to the lamp to get that operating...correct?
(you can tell i'm a wiring Guru now right?)
truth is the car runs absolutely fine and has done so for the last 5000 miles, and I have no need to touch the wiring at all, but I have a new bodyshell going on, and I want to take the opportunity of getting rid of this "mass" of wires I have to feed through the bulkhead . Am I crazy?????
(you can tell i'm a wiring Guru now right?)
truth is the car runs absolutely fine and has done so for the last 5000 miles, and I have no need to touch the wiring at all, but I have a new bodyshell going on, and I want to take the opportunity of getting rid of this "mass" of wires I have to feed through the bulkhead . Am I crazy?????
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 800
Likes: 1
From: Simi VAlley,CA
The low oil level switch grounds to signal the PCM, the PCM provides a ground path for the lamp, the lamp gets IGN +. The PCM uses a quad-driver to close the lamp circuit. The PC sol is the trans pressure control pulse-width modulated valve for the 'ol 4L60E trans, the TFT is a trans fluid temp input that the PCM uses to aid in the shift and line pressure map for the 4L60E. You don't have to concern youself with these anyway. I can send you any schematics you need, just give me a shout. Yes, I get crap from the Early V-8 guys and restoration types but I don't care. It's mine, I built it from the ground up, it hauls ***, handles good and stops great. That is an old picture so since the fenders and lights are going on this weekend I'll get some updated images posted.
Thaks for that, it will be great to see the car.
Any wiring diagrams will also be much appreciated. THere are a few of us doing the LS engined Cob here, so any info is useful.
Here in the UK we don't see the chevy/ford thing much....unless you're building a cob rep that is in which case it is more prevalent.
Interestingly with the ease of access to chevy, and the smaller buick v8, most cobs here are built using those, with only a few using Fords.
Any wiring diagrams will also be much appreciated. THere are a few of us doing the LS engined Cob here, so any info is useful.
Here in the UK we don't see the chevy/ford thing much....unless you're building a cob rep that is in which case it is more prevalent.
Interestingly with the ease of access to chevy, and the smaller buick v8, most cobs here are built using those, with only a few using Fords.
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 800
Likes: 1
From: Simi VAlley,CA
here's my Email address if I can help further, owill@courtesy-chevrolet.com
I considered building a Cobra replica a few years ago, maybe I will some day! I guess I consider my 1935 as sort of an "early" Cobra!
I considered building a Cobra replica a few years ago, maybe I will some day! I guess I consider my 1935 as sort of an "early" Cobra!
Thanks for the link..I have that printed out already and am looking for further information. I hate to delete wiring when I don't understand why
can anyone enlighten me on the what Red 53 does? It says ignition retard signal, but from what to where?
can anyone enlighten me on the what Red 53 does? It says ignition retard signal, but from what to where?