Who else makes motormounts besides S&P for a LS1 in a 69 Camaro. I have read that the S&P mounts move the engine forward (not exactly sure how much) but was wondering why they do that? I`m building a driver so should I look for Rubber, urethane or solid ones? What`s out there?

Thanks, Kurt

 

Actually I don't thinkt he S&P mounts move the engine forward.. however the BRP mounts (also sold by year one) DO DO DO move the engine forward. they do this so it is easier to use an OEM ac unit..

Use rubber.. much nicer..

 

With my S&P mounts, the motor is as close to the firewall as I'd like it to be. It sits just how I like it. I also have the Energy Suspension poly motor mounts. You can't run A/C with the S&P mounts, unless you relocate the compressor.

 

Thanks guy`s for the info,

I did notice that BRP offered mounts after I posted my question so I think I`ll give them a call. I am planning on running AC so that was a nice tip LS69TA.

Thanks again,

 

I Helped A Friend Do This Swap And We Fabbed Up Our Own. Doenst Take Alot Of Skill. If You Have A Drill You Can Do It. We Used A Piece Of 3/16 Plate And We Used The Motor Side Mount Off Of The 327 That Came Out Of The Car. Located The Bottom Of The Upper Mount In The Bottom/forward Motormount Hole On The Block If You Understand That. Think He Had 6 Bucks In The Adapter Plates. He Did Buy New Energy Motor Mounts Though.

 

I have a new set of the S&P mounts that I decided not to use. Let me know if you're interested in buying them for less than what you'd pay at S&P. I'll have to look at what I paid for them to give you a price.

 

i have a similar knock off brand.
the plate looks like its in the way a bit for the a/c compressor. and that my tranny didnt line up with the crossmember, the mounts are moved about 2" further forward. i dunno what im gonna do about my alternator bracket either?
anyone else have this problem?
i had made a post, not too many replies.
good luck.

 

even with the BRP mounts, the A/C is TIGHT. It just depends on what you are wanting to do with the car. Moving the engine back towards the firewall is best if you plan on taking a bunch of corners. otherwise you will be fine as a driver/cruiser.

 

My tranny x-member from T56kit.com is WAY off due to the S+P mounts. It's bout 2" from lining up with the holes on the subframe. It sits too far back, so I'm going to have to either drill new holes or weld it in place. Just something to think about with the S+P plates if you run a 6spd.

 

Mine was as well, it looked to be about 1" off. I re-drilled the holes and it bolted up no problem.

S&P plates set the motor pretty far back, almost against the firewall. The AC commpressor will not clear, I removed it. Clearance it tight with the alternator and the S&P headers to steering box, but it's no problem.

I also couldn't use the pre-load plates with my energy suspension SBC poly mounts when I bolted them to the S&P plates. It wouldn't fit.

As for the mounts/plates, I saw these on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=50454

They look like copies of the S&P mounts.

I think you can run the stock AC with the BRP mounts, since they move the engine further forward.

 

I used the preload plate, but I ground the protrusion down to where it was flat and it bolted up fine. My alt. is really tight too, but at least the cars have that little recess in the crossmember for it to sit down into. I've gotta drill my holes this weekend to mount my tranny x-member. I guess that's the price to pay for better weight distribution.

 

mine too.
all these kits say "bolt in" an ls1 into a small block chassis.
bolt in? yes. fit properly, NO.

i have the same problem in my iroc. my tranny was off 1".
i wasnt about to get rid of my high dollar driveshaft, so i welded the mounts up where i wanted them. i couldnt even get the motor mounts to bolt up to the frame either. the thickness of the plates added some unwanted movement of my mounts.