LS1 pace setter headers in a 67, who has tried it?
#1
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I read a post a while back that said pace setter headers would work in a 1st gen WITH power steering. The guy had to modify one tube for it to all fit. as anyone else tried this swap? I have been thinking about buying a set but i hate to waste my $$$$ if it wont work.
thanks
chris
thanks
chris
#4
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I agree I had One Guy say they worked If you have a front steer Rack which I have My only Concern is where the Collector Dumps. From Pictures the LS1 header appears to sweep up A bit @ the collector Though I could be mistaking Since I have never seen one in Person. Let Me know also. Thanks Larry
#7
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by TJ
stainless works makes a nice bolt on set designed for an ls1. i think i saw a set of kooks as well.
the 4th gen f body header kicks out on the driver side. its been a while since ive seen under a 1st gen. the collector might get in the way of the subframe.
the 4th gen f body header kicks out on the driver side. its been a while since ive seen under a 1st gen. the collector might get in the way of the subframe.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think I'm the guy your talking about. I have a 69 with the stock POWER steering box and I am using pacesetter long tubes. Yes you are right the trick is that you only have to mod one tube. It's the first tube (starting from the front of the engine) and it has to be moved closer to the engine to clear the steering box. If you were to stand in front of your car, the the first two tubes pass the steering box right where the tow nuts are on the steering box; the other two tubes you don't have to worry about.
Here is how I did it and the parts I used. I'm using S&P motor mount adapter plates with morosso solid motor mounts (If you run rubber or poly they might hit the box as the tubes are really really close). I bought a set of un-coated pacesetters from TSP (un-coated b/c you will need to cut into them and it would be stupid pay for somthing your going to mess up). I then took the driver side header to a local exhust shop and had them cut out a little over a foot of material from the first tube. Then staring at the collecter moved the first pipe in twards the motor, after that they just welded a new peice in. The pass side header can be put in from the top and fitts like a champ, the drive side on the other hand needs to be put in fromt the bottom. The car needs to be jacked up really really hight too, because the header needs to be put at a 90 degree angle to fit.
It was about 35 bucks to have it modded and add that to the cost of my 290 headers; 325 isn't back compared to the 1000 yearone wants. Ground clearance is also awsome these headers tuck up very well compared to my friends 69 which has hookers comming from his SBC. The collectors sit about a qauter to a half an inch below the subframe so ground clearance is not an issue
Like I said earlier only one tube NEEDS to be modded but you will probablie want to "move" the 2nd pipe also as it is really really close to the box. I also wrapped my headers with thermo tec b/c the header is really close to the box and I do not want to fry my power steering fluid.
I'll have pics up tomorro or the next.
Here is how I did it and the parts I used. I'm using S&P motor mount adapter plates with morosso solid motor mounts (If you run rubber or poly they might hit the box as the tubes are really really close). I bought a set of un-coated pacesetters from TSP (un-coated b/c you will need to cut into them and it would be stupid pay for somthing your going to mess up). I then took the driver side header to a local exhust shop and had them cut out a little over a foot of material from the first tube. Then staring at the collecter moved the first pipe in twards the motor, after that they just welded a new peice in. The pass side header can be put in from the top and fitts like a champ, the drive side on the other hand needs to be put in fromt the bottom. The car needs to be jacked up really really hight too, because the header needs to be put at a 90 degree angle to fit.
It was about 35 bucks to have it modded and add that to the cost of my 290 headers; 325 isn't back compared to the 1000 yearone wants. Ground clearance is also awsome these headers tuck up very well compared to my friends 69 which has hookers comming from his SBC. The collectors sit about a qauter to a half an inch below the subframe so ground clearance is not an issue
Like I said earlier only one tube NEEDS to be modded but you will probablie want to "move" the 2nd pipe also as it is really really close to the box. I also wrapped my headers with thermo tec b/c the header is really close to the box and I do not want to fry my power steering fluid.
I'll have pics up tomorro or the next.
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That's great info. I will look forward to seeing the pictures. If you want another heat containment option rather than wrapping them, take a look at having them Jet Hot coated. The coating looks great, protects the metal from rust and reduces the temperature. I have a set of shorties I plan to modify for my swap and Jet Hot quoted about $175 to coat them inside and out.
Here's a link to their site
http://www.jethot.com/
Pat
Here's a link to their site
http://www.jethot.com/
Pat
#11
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Stu Cool
That's great info. I will look forward to seeing the pictures. If you want another heat containment option rather than wrapping them, take a look at having them Jet Hot coated. The coating looks great, protects the metal from rust and reduces the temperature. I have a set of shorties I plan to modify for my swap and Jet Hot quoted about $175 to coat them inside and out.
Here's a link to their site
http://www.jethot.com/
Pat
Here's a link to their site
http://www.jethot.com/
Pat
#13
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ok, i could not wait any longer and i started chopping on my new pace setters. first i carefully cut off the drivers collector. next i cut the #5 tube about 5" from the header flange. next i cut #5 tube about 1" from the collector flange. i then installed the header and the power steering box. i angled the #5 tube in and down just a little bit. i tacked it in place. now all i have to do is add about 10" of pipe and it is set. you may not have to cut the collector off but it will allow you to angle it the way that it suits you best. the passenger header is real close to the subframe. i plan to cut it off and angle it in some.
i say this is within the range of the average fabricator with access to a good welder. i will try to get some pics up tomorrow. i have to order the 10" of pipe but i will try to finish them next weekend.
chris
i say this is within the range of the average fabricator with access to a good welder. i will try to get some pics up tomorrow. i have to order the 10" of pipe but i will try to finish them next weekend.
chris