I've done a search and can't find an answer,or most posts are so old all the links are dead!! I have a rear mounted battery in my 93 Typhoon with a ls1 engine, the ls1 battery cable has 3 leads off of the positive side 2 red,1 black i believe the long red one goes to the junction box,the kinda charged one goes to the starter,the black one goes to the alternator, I have one heavy gauge positive cable running from the battery to the front and one lighter gauge positive cable,the ground ( neg) has one cable running to the frame,these cables are allum' I have a summit battery relocation here with the copper leads, my question is should I use the copper leads and just use a juntion in the front mounted on the frame to use the ls1 battery cables? or do I have to run 3 positive leads all the way from the battery?? THANKS

 

Hey Boss....

I mostly followed your email, but not 100%. If I'm decoding it right, you're saying that the stock LS1 positive battery cable has 3 leads and you want to know if you've got to run 3 wires back to the battery or if 1 big cable to a junction block will be sufficient.

My personal take is that 1 big cable for positive (and might even want to run 1 for negative also, since steel doesn't conduct as well as copper) should be more than enough. Also, given the distance and the current, I'd suggest you use a fairly heavy gauge cable, like 2/0 or so (2/0 is pretty big, about 5/8" diameter).

You may also consider whether you want to use battery cable or welding cable. Welding cable has a finer stranding, which yields a cable that is more flexible and has a higher current capacity.

Make sure that it is adequately supported using rubber lined or plastic clamps. And make sure it runs through grommets anyplace it goes through a hole.

May also want to think seriously about some form of circuit breaker. If for some reason you have an insulation failure on the positive lead (something cuts it, rubs through, gets too hot, whatever), that positive lead will be a BIG honking short. Which is going to try and start a BIG honking FIRE. I don't think you want to go there.

Lastly, I'd suggest using crimp on type lugs, and then soldering them in place (after crimping). And using heat shrink to seal the jacket up so that the cable doesn't oxidize. Or using tinned cable (typically only available for marine use) but that's probably overkill.

You might also check SyTy.net. I seem to recall some guys talking about this kind of thing just recently.


I used to work for a company that built TV trucks, and we always had dual batteries and big amp draw items in the truck (usually an inverter pulling 200 to 300 amps). And they always had some form of circuit breakers. I think that was because of the bad taste that the "spontaneously combusting ambulances left in the owner of my companies mouth. Didn't like the thought of customer's trucks bursting into flames.

Anyway, enough rambling.

'Dreamin'

 

THANKS, I just talked to Jarred at Current Performance wiring,He said about the same thing,he has a heavy fused junction box, i think I'll go that route,seems to be a lot safer that way,THANKS AGAIN,

 

My only caution about fuses is this: They can be really expensive.

I'd recommend checking the replacement cost of the fuse. And plan to carry a spare (or better yet, 2) because its not good to be stranded on the side of the road because of a blown fuse. Really makes you want to kick your truck.

Often times a circuit breaker (which usually has some form of reset feature, either manual or automatic) is not much more expensive than a fuse, especially when you consider replacement fuse costs. I checked my Waytek catalog, and found 150amp circuit breakers for around $15 to $20 (I'm not sure if that pricing is current though.)

'Dreamin'

 

If you plan on drag racing your truck your going to need a kill switch to make the techs happy.

 

After reading the replies to my thread,I took annother look at my cables,they appear to be aluminum,but looking at a cross section where they are cut,they look like cooper!! I think they are a cooper tinned cable, they say Sturger HPM series 0 GA 1FT/0.3m its a fine stranded cable,I was thinking alum', because the ends were not soldered and they just slipped right off. I emailed Nick, the former owner and he didn't recall what they were,does anybody recognise these markings? THANKS

 

I went to the Waytech web site, they have a switchable circuit breaker,figured the disengage feature could use as a kill switch, but what size do i need 100amps, 120amps, 150amps,i also found the copper tinned marine battery cables on ebay for $25 for 25 feet, I could buy 2 a red and a black and have enough cable left for a good set of jumper cables!! for less than the cost of a summit relocation kit!! THANKS

 

I'd run as big a circuit breaker as you feel comfortable with. Also, how big is your alternator? (output) Basically, the circuit breaker will work both ways, it'll prevent you from drawing too much power, but it also could prevent you from putting full alternator output back in again. And what are you running in the way of power drawing equipment? Big honkin' stereo? Dual electric fans?

Sadly, I'm not sure that 150 amps is big enough, 200 would be a better choice, but I'm not sure if Waytek has that. Might have to do some searching.

Somebody mentioned a battery disconnect switch, that might be a real good idea, especially if the vehicle will be drag raced or will sit for extended periods. That might be a good thing to keep from killing batteries.

Might also want to think about a hardwire jumper cable setup. I've seen some setups where you've got a "harness" that you install permanently in the truck, with a big connector on one end (that mounts to the truck, say the front or rear bumper). To jump start somebody else (or your truck) you pull out your cables, hook up the clips to the other battery and plug in the connector to your truck. Presto, instant jumper cable connection, without having to dive under the hood or dig under the truck. Just a thought.


'Dreamin'

 

Thanks,but i don't think that jumper deal would look good on my Typhoon, its TYPHOONZ06 on turols6.com,THANKS

 

Ok quick question and don't mean to hyjack the thread. What if you just put the remote disconnect onto the ground or negative cable before you connect it to the chassis? It would accomplish the same thing in the end. I don't have a NHRA book in front of me, are they dead set of it having to the positive feed cable??? Seems like that is alot of additional positive cable to run when in my case the battery is going to be in the bed and the kill switch is going to be in the license plate. Thanks.

 

Hey Boss....

I'm not sure if you followed what I was suggesting. So, here's a link as to what I am suggesting. This kit happens to be by Painless, their stock number 40101. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...39&prmenbr=361 There is a picture. There are 2 red plastic connectors, 1 of which has a big handle. Thats the end that mounts to the jumper cable ends. The other end, which is roughly 1.25" x 2.5" square, can mount in a bunch of spots, including say, behind the liscense plate or rear valence or something else hidden.


Kossuth....I don't know the answer. I seem to recall a previous poster (in a different thread, might not have even been here) that the NHRA is specific and insistent upon breaking the Positive lead. But again, that's hearsay, so best check for yourself.

'Dreamin'