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S10 LS1 headers from Sanderson

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Old 10-13-2005, 02:39 PM
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Default S10 LS1 headers from Sanderson

Just talked to Jeremy at Sanderson. He told me that they have the driver's side in 1 3/4" with a 3" collector. They don't have the passenger side done yet, but said they will probably have it in another month or so. If anyone is interested, they might call him and ask him about it. If they know that there is more interest, they might get them done sooner. I just called the number on the sanderson site and asked for Jeremy. They are cheap too.
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Old 10-16-2005, 02:18 AM
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Sweet! good lookin out 82!
Old 10-16-2005, 08:19 AM
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That would be GREAT....
Old 11-11-2005, 01:51 PM
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Just found out that Jeremy must have been lying to me or, just didn't know what was going on. Called today to check on them, and he wasn't there. The guy I had on the phone said that they weren't working on anything, and they wouldn't be because 1 3/4" was just too big to work. I might see if I can talk to Jeremy next week.
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Old 11-11-2005, 04:28 PM
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I think you should just beat jeremy up instead of talkin to him. Jk.I was really looking forward to these, somebody has to step up.Keep us informed.
Old 11-11-2005, 05:56 PM
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Theres already a company online that has these. My buddy bought a set for his 6.0L S10. Its LS1performance or something like that.
Old 11-11-2005, 07:30 PM
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How much were they?
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Old 11-11-2005, 07:33 PM
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ls1performance.com doesn't work. I do think I remember something like that.
Old 11-11-2005, 09:34 PM
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www.ls1performanceparts.com

His name is Steve, he has mixed reviews on customer service and product. I just recently purchaced his modified oil pan, With this pan there is no need to notch the crossmember. Shipping was a bit of a pain but the product is nice and he was great with me.




Last edited by Black X; 11-11-2005 at 09:49 PM.
Old 11-13-2005, 08:18 PM
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I cut off about 2 Inches off the bottom of my truck oil pan and threaded some nipples for oil cooler lines. Sits perfectly flush now with the bottom of the cradle. Looks beautiful (IMO) and no clearance problems with my 5" front and 6" rear lowering. Cost me $75 to get that plate welded but I did all the cutting and fitment myself.
Attached Thumbnails S10 LS1 headers from Sanderson-oil-pan-small.jpg   S10 LS1 headers from Sanderson-oil-pan-small-2.jpg   S10 LS1 headers from Sanderson-oil-pan-small-3.jpg  

Last edited by Bigdeezs; 11-13-2005 at 08:35 PM.
Old 11-13-2005, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Black X
www.ls1performanceparts.com

His name is Steve, he has mixed reviews on customer service and product. I just recently purchaced his modified oil pan, With this pan there is no need to notch the crossmember. Shipping was a bit of a pain but the product is nice and he was great with me.



So I could buy that pan..and not have to cut into my crossmember when swapping in a ls1? I have a 91 truck.
Old 11-14-2005, 01:15 AM
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Yes that pan will clear the frame...no notching....I set my motor far enough back that I didnt notch my frame. I did however have to massage (beat the **** out of with a sledge) the frame a bit to get the right lower side of the pan to clear. That pan though will hang about 2 inches or so below the crossmember which depending on your ride height could be dangerous. I had cracked mine and decided to clearance the bottom.
Attached Thumbnails S10 LS1 headers from Sanderson-oil-pan-crack-small.jpg   S10 LS1 headers from Sanderson-oil-pan-crack-small-2.jpg  
Old 11-15-2005, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 1FASTS10
So I could buy that pan..and not have to cut into my crossmember when swapping in a ls1? I have a 91 truck.
Yes you could, But make sure you have lots of communication with steve and discuss shipping and tracking with him before purchacing.

Like i said, I had no problems with his service but others have so make sure you pay attention to the transaction.
Old 08-31-2006, 07:11 PM
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IF you can get ahold of him.....
Old 08-31-2006, 08:31 PM
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after you cut the pan how much oil does it hold
Old 08-31-2006, 09:07 PM
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I'm using the stock oil cooler (heater?) lines along with the pan and it takes almost 7 quarts to get it to read correctly on the dipstick. I dont know if this has something to do with the f-body dipstick being used with the truck pan (doesn't seem like there should be a difference?) or maybe the angle the motor sits at has changed enough for it to read differently. Either way I'd rather have a lil' too much oil than not enough. Also I've read about road course guys adding an extra quart to solve starvation problems on hard cornering so I think I'm okay. Been running my motor now like this for about 8k with no oil pressure issues at all.

BTW: After I cut the pan, with it removed, it held more than 2 gallons (8quarts) of water before it reached the upper edge of the pan.

Last edited by Bigdeezs; 08-31-2006 at 09:14 PM.
Old 09-01-2006, 06:39 AM
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what all did you ls1ers delete as far as the computer goes?egr,cats,etc...what kind of mpg are you getting?I just talked to the man yesterday on my harness and computer.(CPW)I decided to put it in my 97 4.3 zq8 stepside.What did you do for the fuel lines.I seen somewhere on here just use the corvett fuel filter?Is that all there is to the fuel system?thanks very much guys...
Old 09-01-2006, 02:56 PM
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Thats all I did. I'm using the stock 4.3CPI fuel pump. Made over 400hp with a wetshot on the dyno using this fuel system without a drop in pressure. I am getting around 16mpg around town and have gotten a best of 23mpg on a long road trip. My six got a best of 22mpg on the same trip but the six would get about 17 around town.
Old 01-18-2007, 03:31 PM
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i guess im screwed no matter what i do... my trucks on bags and the crossmember already sits on the ground... and since whoever said it sits two inches below anyway... i gotta figure out somethin... either raise the motor up or just throwin some coil-overs on... any ideas?
Old 01-18-2007, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by lowonair6173
i guess im screwed no matter what i do... my trucks on bags and the crossmember already sits on the ground... and since whoever said it sits two inches below anyway... i gotta figure out somethin... either raise the motor up or just throwin some coil-overs on... any ideas?
1) trim the bottom of the pan
2) use the f-body pan or ls2 pan and trim the crossmember
3) weld 2 inches worth of steal to the bottom of the crossmember as a skid plate


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