Factory camaro alternator question
12-31-2013, 01:13 AM
#101
Ok, another question, I posted a while back an thought I had my answer, but reading through this thread gets confusing because the info is all over the place.
But I have a:
-2004 5.3 Truck Harness and PCM
- 2002 Camaro Alternator
On the alternator plug I removed all the wires but the brown and made sure it's in the correct spot per directions from the members.
The brown wire goes back to the PCM and is for the Charge Indicator Control. I am assuming this is all I need for the alternator to work correctly? Other than the wire that connects to the lug and goes to the battery?
No resistors or light bulb needed correct?
I'm installing an AAW harness in my 71 Camaro and I have a brown wire coming from the dash that goes to the alternator (assuming I had an old school set up). This wire runs to the volt gauge in the dash.
What do I do with this now? Should I just connect it to the battery or on the main alternator lug to give 12volts to the guage?
But I have a:
-2004 5.3 Truck Harness and PCM
- 2002 Camaro Alternator
On the alternator plug I removed all the wires but the brown and made sure it's in the correct spot per directions from the members.
The brown wire goes back to the PCM and is for the Charge Indicator Control. I am assuming this is all I need for the alternator to work correctly? Other than the wire that connects to the lug and goes to the battery?
No resistors or light bulb needed correct?
I'm installing an AAW harness in my 71 Camaro and I have a brown wire coming from the dash that goes to the alternator (assuming I had an old school set up). This wire runs to the volt gauge in the dash.
What do I do with this now? Should I just connect it to the battery or on the main alternator lug to give 12volts to the guage?
12-31-2013, 01:52 AM
#102
Karl's diagram is functional but let me just point out that if you were to run that brown wire (terminal L) to a light bulb on the dash you would be notified in case of a regulator problem. Or just run it to the PCM (no resistor needed) and it will trip the MIL light for you. Without either one of those solutions you'll need to rely on the volt meter only.
12-31-2013, 01:58 AM
#103
Karl's diagram is functional but let me just point out that if you were to run that brown wire (terminal L) to a light bulb on the dash you would be notified in case of a regulator problem. Or just run it to the PCM (no resistor needed) and it will trip the MIL light for you. Without either one of those solutions you'll need to rely on the volt meter only.
05-22-2014, 07:09 AM
#104
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I noticed my volt gauge going from 14 - 18 volts, back and forth, back and forth...pegging out the gauge
I shut the car off, and noticed fluid leaking from my battery
I'm thinking I may need to put the resistor in??? Or Maybe bypass with PCM and just do the set-up like Karl's diagram?
I'm running new vintage 69 series gauges and they have low warning led lights built in...change colors when there's an issue
05-22-2014, 07:35 AM
#105
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Also, I'm going to check the continuity of the brown wire plugged into the alternator.
I figure I would turn the ignition to "accy" and put a meter on it....what should I be looking for?
I read in another post if the wire is dead, broke or came loose...the alternator will overcharge...which makes sense in my case if it's any of these issues
I figure I would turn the ignition to "accy" and put a meter on it....what should I be looking for?
I read in another post if the wire is dead, broke or came loose...the alternator will overcharge...which makes sense in my case if it's any of these issues
05-22-2014, 11:25 AM
#106
Did the PCM throw any codes/light the MIL while this was happening?
If you pull the plug out of the alternator and locate terminal L (brown wire) you should have 12V on there with ign on. I'm talking about plug side which is coming from PCM.
As a test you can rig up a 12V wire with an inline bulb and hook up to that terminal on Alt. If there is a regulator failure alternator will short it's end to ground causing the bulb to light.
If you pull the plug out of the alternator and locate terminal L (brown wire) you should have 12V on there with ign on. I'm talking about plug side which is coming from PCM.
As a test you can rig up a 12V wire with an inline bulb and hook up to that terminal on Alt. If there is a regulator failure alternator will short it's end to ground causing the bulb to light.
05-22-2014, 11:28 AM
#107
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My PCM light is staying on right now, I figure I have a few things going on as this is a fresh install, trying to sort one thing out at a time. Haven't pulled any codes yet
Thanks for the advice on using the bulb, I'll try that...the alternator is new, but you never know
Thanks again
Thanks for the advice on using the bulb, I'll try that...the alternator is new, but you never know
Thanks again
05-22-2014, 11:40 AM
#108
What year alternator are you using by the way? The newer ones I believe 05' and above will not work at all with a simple 12V signal they require a special PWM from the PCM to turn on.
05-22-2014, 11:42 AM
#109
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I was using the brown wire coming from the PCM to the four pin plug on the alternator. In space B I believe
05-22-2014, 03:18 PM
#110
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ok, I put a tester on the brown wire going to the plug and got 11 volts....that sound right?
Seems like it should read less than that, I picked up the resistors today, in case I need them
Seems like it should read less than that, I picked up the resistors today, in case I need them
05-22-2014, 03:49 PM
#111
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weirdest thing, after I checked my alternator plug, I pushed it back in. Went ahead and added the 1k resistor for my tach and changed the setting to 4cyl and the thing fired right up, no surging of the electrical gauge and the check engine light went out
words can't explain how happy I am right now, this is the first time I ever fired this engine since I frankensteined all this together 4 years ago. And it's actually running pretty good.
words can't explain how happy I am right now, this is the first time I ever fired this engine since I frankensteined all this together 4 years ago. And it's actually running pretty good.
05-22-2014, 03:55 PM
#112
Congrats on the clean startup!
I just measured mine for your reference. PCM output to L terminal is 11.15V, battery voltage is 12.65V so there's a 1.5V drop being induced by PCM it seems. I have a fairly unmolested harness out of an 01' vette and that's how the factory wires it: straight to PCM.
I just measured mine for your reference. PCM output to L terminal is 11.15V, battery voltage is 12.65V so there's a 1.5V drop being induced by PCM it seems. I have a fairly unmolested harness out of an 01' vette and that's how the factory wires it: straight to PCM.
05-26-2016, 07:34 PM
#113
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Can anyone just help me with this. IDK what L,P or any of that **** means. All i need to know is what collor wire goes where to get this thing running ive about had it with this whole thing. There color coded an the plug is label A,B,C,D not what color goes where on this plug to get it running its got 5 wires i dont understand it the car wont charge an is dead in the water.
05-26-2016, 07:57 PM
#114
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Can anyone just help me with this. IDK what L,P or any of that **** means. All i need to know is what collor wire goes where to get this thing running ive about had it with this whole thing. There color coded an the plug is label A,B,C,D not what color goes where on this plug to get it running its got 5 wires i dont understand it the car wont charge an is dead in the water.
Then add a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor inline with that wire and attach it to Cavity B of that plug.
That's pretty much it, nothing else to it. As long as your running a cable from the battery to the lug on the back of that alternator and the exciter wire (cavity B) is hooked up correctly it should charge. Here's a pic I found on the web...only use cavity B.
Last edited by 1976CamaroGuy; 05-27-2016 at 08:12 AM.
