Factory camaro alternator question
Thanks
Frank
It is NOT the "field" line, as this is internally connected on the F-body alternator.
If you don't want to add a light to your setup (most people don't), you should go to radio shack and buy a 500 ohm resistor and put it in series with that line.
The correct sequence is: Ignition switch 12 volts to one side of resistor; other side of resistor to terminal B of the regulator.
Your alternator will thank you in a couple of years, as it will still be working! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
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<strong>thanks guys.
any luck on that wiring info speedfreaks101?
Frank</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Man I am sorry I totally forgot. If you are still having problems PM me.

91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
Last edited by Speartech; Dec 31, 2013 at 09:25 AM. Reason: Updating OLD post with more accurate info!
I have a question on how to wire up a lamp with the 12 volt source for the alternator. I know one leg of the light has to go to a ground, how do you hook up the 12v going in and a 12v going to the alternator?
Thanks
Bill
With it wired up this way, if certain failures take place inside the alternator, the light will come on alerting you to a problem.
John

91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
John

91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
While my motor was apart for freshening up, I completely removed the stock insturment panel and made my own using AutoMeter gauges. Today I got the motor back in the car and running, but realized that for some reason the alternator wasn't charging the battery.
I took the alternator to the local parts house and had it tested, and it tested good. Well, I began scratching my head and wondering what the problem could be. I figured it was probably something to do with my removal of the cluster. The factory service manual did offer a little help, but I was still somewhat in the dark. Remembering this thread (that I replied to with false info, sorry about that...), I did some searching and dug it back up.
I quickly made up a jumper and tied two 1K ohm resistors together in parallel, and tested it out. Guess what, the battery charges now!!!
John (Speartech), the info you provided was very very helpful and enlightening. I would have been screwed if not for this board and this thread! Thanks, I owe you the cool refreshing beverage of your choice if we ever meet up in person! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
<small>[ February 22, 2003, 06:12 PM: Message edited by: GeorgeC ]</small>
But then I became fearful of reconnecting the alternator. A reply on another board suggested that the alt could be bad (diode) and cause a major short in the system.
SO, I removed the alt and was hamfistedly tryna check it out. None of the local parts shops can test it (One autozone actually had the test cable in the drawer, I pointed to it, guy said "yeah but it only has 3 leads, the 4th one is blank" - I couldn't convince him to try it anyway). So, I noticed that the main, positive post shows some continuity with the case. That's bad, right? I mean, it's not 100%, but there is some continuity.
Here's a TTT on this old thread that explains how to hook it up correctly.

91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
Keep in mind, if you are using a Corvette PCM program, both wires are taken care of by the PCM, with no external wiring needed.
Just for clarification, does the field terminal have to be connected to 12V for the Corvette alt to work, or just the lamp terminal like on the F-body alt? I have a Corvette alt for my swap with a F-body harness and wanted to wire it right the first time. John, thanks for trolling the boards and keeping us all straight.





